4mm Meldon Quarry

AdeMoore

Western Thunderer

The sleepers are just where they fell as the board needs flipping to install some timber bearers and the dowels and micro switches. When that’s done and it’s right way up finally I’ll get it all stuck in place.
 

AdeMoore

Western Thunderer

Yep I know the hand rail is bent I’ve left it for now as it’s more protected like that until we’re running proper so to speak, bending it’s back knocking it again before long she’d snap off is my theory.
Back on it tomorrow hopefully.
 

jonte

Western Thunderer
You’ve done a smashing job, Ade; the smooth running of your USA on the track bears testament ;)

Melted sleepers was always annoying, and although the experts say you shouldn’t, I use Carrs’ green flux and 145 solder, which means you don’t need to hover with the iron.

Perhaps because I use analogue control this doesn't seem to be an issue?

Btw, I like your light switches :)

Jonte
 

AdeMoore

Western Thunderer
You’ve done a smashing job, Ade; the smooth running of your USA on the track bears testament ;)

Melted sleepers was always annoying, and although the experts say you shouldn’t, I use Carrs’ green flux and 145 solder, which means you don’t need to hover with the iron.

Perhaps because I use analogue control this doesn't seem to be an issue?

Btw, I like your light switches :)

Jonte
Thanks Jonte much appreciated.
The melted sleeper thing is just not being wary enough of either A where the wider part of the iron is touching or B not sticking to my self imposed limit of if the cable is to hot to hold from heat transfer stop!
From 3ft I doubt you would notice but as we all like the occasional cruel close up I’ll doctor them up with knife and even filler if I have to.
Next Km pondering PVA or Copydex to stick the track down I’m Also going the Captain Kernow route of ballast then rather than pipette and 50/50 water Pva later.
Seen here on Gordon’s layout almost bottom of the page Eastwood Town....Two into one, will go....
But with Rays take on it. “My words not his”
The track for the carriage siding was sprayed with Plasticote Suede, glued down using full strength PVA, sprinkled with ballast while still wet, weighted and left to dry overnight
Camel Quay - A North Cornwall inspired layout in 4mm
On the other channel I know not searched here for ballasting yet must do that .
Thanks for looking in.
Cheers
 

AdeMoore

Western Thunderer


The coach wheels are too course for these points! They crash the wing rails? Is that the right term?
The 16T is the only goods wagons I have! Nice to see the Tank with something attached.
Cheers
 

AdeMoore

Western Thunderer
So after a little shunting up and back, this way and that.
It was time to press on.



C7DC9322-2047-441A-AA46-103A184BAD0B.jpeg 43F7A5C5-60B7-4A6B-B238-AA75E8ACBFAA.jpeg BE4BF522-3C4D-4DBF-9487-FCE6A118C402.jpeg

Marked up the board for the point operating dowels, then out with the drill and 12mm spade bit and in no time 6 holes for the dowels.

81D5E845-32B3-45B2-AB62-1538DACF3B57.jpeg

Then I flipped the board over.
Now you hear plenty of boards warping due to lack of bracing! Look here I must of been skilled! Or lucky about 20 years old barely braced this side (I ran out of 4 inch timber I seem to remember) still level and straight.

FD11B661-C179-4442-8EE5-C1442FE576E9.jpeg 0D4712C0-5C10-40D6-9832-84EEB907ACDB.jpeg 2DD193E8-D519-4803-A98D-AB42C58E2D69.jpeg

So next job is stick a 4 inch longitudinal brace this side mainly to support the dowel this side.

10FF3CA6-64F9-4351-ABC2-5E1C62A1FEFE.jpeg

I know I should of got the carpentry done first! But I’m more confident in that than track soldering and laying so wanted to win with that first.
Thanks for your comments and likes.
Until next time Cheers.
 

Brian T

Western Thunderer
Great job on getting eveything down and the trains up and running,as there`s nothing more satisfiying than being able to play!.
Not being too famillar with British 4mm coaches,i`m supprised that your coach does`nt like the point`s.You say that it crashes the wing rail`s,might the back to back of the wheels be too narrow?.Or are the flanges too deep,making it ride the plastic insert in the frog it`s self?.
On a lighter note....i noticed the use of drawing pin`s holding down the front siding,which reminded of a picture that i was sent a few years back from a 'friend',where i was complemented (?) for such a thing.....:D
BRIAN TOVEY MASTERCLASS.jpg
Who need`s enemies ay!!
Brian.
 

AdeMoore

Western Thunderer
might the back to back of the wheels be too narrow?.Or are the flanges too deep, making it ride the plastic insert in the frog its self?.
On a lighter note....i noticed the use of drawing pin`s holding down the front siding,which reminded of a picture that i was sent a few years back from a 'friend',where i was complemented (?) for such a thing.....:D
View attachment 117810
Who need`s enemies ay!!
Brian.
Cheers for the comment Brian I think you’re right on the flange depth hitting the plastic.
Yes prefer drawing pins to track pins for temporary fixing, easier to extract.
Your beautiful work does warrant a compliment of some sort. :)
Cheers.
 

AdeMoore

Western Thunderer
Bit more done but ever keen good job I had to go to bed yesterday, as I was busy repositioning the wire trunking as this pillock put it along the middle forgetting I had allowed the cables along the front! Then started labelling and laying in the cables got so far then turned in. Lying in bed it dawned if I wire it all up tidy I won’t be able to lift and stick down the track! Got carried away see! So I thought I need to prove the intended point operation which worked a dream first time.
I used some mini trunking lid to mount the micro switch on with 2 holes one elongated to allow adjustment.
The T smaller dowel I figured from the start as putting the operating dowels low as I want to for reasons you’ll see much much later, there would be to much flex in the piano wire at that length.

CD18FC2D-C1B5-4240-A153-5EBAF4E6A651.jpeg

03A7C2F7-C4E0-4640-B4E3-7B7D32D9AFCA.jpeg

So pleased with that but now I’ve not made the wiring up mistake time to turn it over and get the track glued down weathered and ballasted before I flip it and get the wiring up together including the switch panel.
Thanks for looking in.
Until next time
Cheers
 
Last edited:

AdeMoore

Western Thunderer
Blimey Charlie another mistake! I was going for 9mm between sleepers rather than the 10mm scale due to the narrower gauge as described before.
I made a tool to gauge it which would also double as a spreader between the sleepers.
Couldn’t work out why my prep was out and had to loose more sleepers.
Slept on it and realised I’d gone 9mm between the sleepers not centres! Hence the narrow gauge look. Quickly in morning before work pulled it up lucky it came up ok with a bit of force. Propped it up till this evening.D3AFF6FF-A917-4782-868F-8364CD47C444.jpeg

Retrimmed the spacing tool and slid the sleepers I took off yesterday back on then PVA and got lining up and spacing.

2B144B2A-57A3-4A4B-B185-E5FA9F25D69B.jpeg 89B764CB-09BE-4F6C-9CAB-BACE774CCC1E.jpeg

Just the joint sleepers to slid in.
Below experimenting with lightweight filler.

65948F70-499F-4358-B747-1386674D0F58.jpeg

Below looking ahead to the loco shed. I’m finding it hard to locate any 4 mm concrete block sheets etc. Well I did but they look nothing like concrete blocks.
I thought nothing to loose paying £1.99 for the Scalescenes download. Stuck a sheet of A4 printed on my mock up to give an idea. Would do if I cannot find anything better.

E36A1104-E9B7-4AC5-B5B7-FDA84CC24F14.jpeg

Thanks for your likes and comments.
More soon
Until next time.
Cheers
 
Last edited:

Brian T

Western Thunderer
Below looking ahead to the loco shed. I’m finding it hard to locate any 4 mm concrete block sheets etc. Well I did but they look nothing like concrete blocks.
I thought nothing to loose paying £1.99 for the Scalescenes download. Stuck a sheet of A4 printed on my mock up to give an idea. Would do if I cannot find anything better.

View attachment 119057

Thanks for your likes and comments.
More soon
Until next time.
Cheers

Are you looking at covering an exsisting shell in printed papers,or scratch building your engine shed out of plasticard?.
Because if it`s the later then Peco sell Will`s concerete block sheets;
Cobblestones

Brian.
 

AdeMoore

Western Thunderer
Are you looking at covering an exsisting shell in printed papers,or scratch building your engine shed out of plasticard?.
Because if it`s the later then Peco sell Will`s concerete block sheets;
Cobblestones

Brian.
Thanks Brian can’t believe my search didn’t turn up those! Yes will be a scratch build.
My search only turned up these South Eastern Finecast FBS418 270x380mm Text'd Concrete 4mm Scale Plastic Sheet - 2K Technologies
Pretty naff by comparison not that I’ve seen them in the flesh so to speak.
Got my 2mm acrylic sheet so need to obtain those wills sheets now.
I intend building in a Mike of Dent fame style DENT STATION Nov. 22nd post. Never tried it, just thought a great way to get good windows though they are facing rear on the layout!
Cheers for the info.
 

AdeMoore

Western Thunderer
Now I’ve stuck the rear most up line and 3/4 of the loop then I remember I was going to follow Rays technique see Feb 9th post above. But to paint first I need the sleepers spaced right!

So with some superglue to hold misbehaving sleepers I set about that on the remainder.

The Mike Buick (Oak Road RMWeb) School of thought is glue paint ballast paint! He knows but I’m willing to try and fail trying!

Paint Pva and ballast while PVA still wet, as Rays Camel Quay RMWeb.

So points are taped up ready for spraying.

ACE9AB69-D03A-469C-BC00-E3C9D726700C.jpeg C463D33E-EFA5-43A6-BC3B-A42F6CFDBF99.jpeg 80F32673-7E1C-46DC-BE05-0BE01874CE40.jpeg 8798C9F9-E676-452A-85B2-CF0CAE63CAED.jpeg


The bit of track top right will have to be replaced, a bit of badly spaced track I left with ballast trials!

more soon

Cheers

Ade
 

AdeMoore

Western Thunderer
So lovely weather to get the layout outdoors to spray the rattle can! But as of last Wednesday working from home due to Covid19 so get an extra hourish modelling at home.

Trouble was it was way too windy so resorted to the shed.

There I laid a coat of Plastikote suede on.

A961EFF9-BFF9-40ED-919D-DF9459BC77B1.jpeg
6193895E-488B-4690-9F29-16E26EEE2D9D.jpeg 27D86EB0-A48C-4C01-A03D-97E3F6680815.jpeg

Then back up to the railway room as it’s become known! The next day and start on the weathering.

Below a test piece with buffer stops used as a photo prop just to give an idea of 00 gauge track at the HO scale spacing. Also An attempt at some track weathering.
 

Attachments

  • 789EB793-C054-4DF2-946B-A6C737D8CE90.jpeg
    789EB793-C054-4DF2-946B-A6C737D8CE90.jpeg
    143 KB · Views: 5
  • 306CE789-4DCE-4868-BB22-01D1D0DDF52B.jpeg
    306CE789-4DCE-4868-BB22-01D1D0DDF52B.jpeg
    139.1 KB · Views: 5
Last edited:

AdeMoore

Western Thunderer
Internet not playing ball this evening! Hence a mess on posting! Reason for heading outside was the rattle can stunk real bad!

Below a test piece with buffer stops used as a photo prop just to give an idea of 00 gauge track at the HO scale spacing. Also An attempt at some track weathering

E334E30F-1554-4F05-B100-4B47B3D629B6.jpeg

So in the engine shed as it will be hidden mainly is the first attempt at weathering the track.

5AC80C15-3224-472D-B0FB-05A7C1723697.jpeg 8FF99FAD-36A7-44BD-88E5-F1E51A92F8CF.jpeg

Only disappointing thing is I was heavy handed with the rattle can and lost the sleeper grain detail so they look like concrete sleepers.

so I need to rub the paint off on the rest before continuing.

Until next time

Cheers
 

AdeMoore

Western Thunderer
If you were lost above on the last posts have another look I’ve tried to put them right! Internet is useless tonight.

Yesterdays progress nothing done today. Tried not to go so heavy handed on the up line.
Next stage is the sleepers.

C327A58C-D6B7-40E9-8CCE-C7576CDBDA16.jpeg B980137B-61B4-40F9-87FB-23DFD516B6DC.jpeg A3DF5FDC-6653-4264-A5B6-C4E3C0FADD98.jpeg

Until next time
Cheers
 

AdeMoore

Western Thunderer
More done not sure, but as usual probably over done it!
Too black in places maybe use something light to bring it back if possible.
Some smoke weathering powder to go to tone down some of it.
46879498-C9F3-4BDD-AE6A-2FF2976FC88F.jpeg 257A251D-08E8-4D02-B287-3725F4B90AB2.jpeg 951C0DCF-46E9-4082-B76D-27CF1104ACB8.jpeg 807DBC73-2F9C-41E9-91E6-D21054C76B80.jpeg

Also seen a post on FB about removing Peco point gubbins! I still need the spring action though for the micro switches so the switch keeps in or out.
Like the slimmed down look but not sure if it’s something I could do. Can’t on some now anyway as glued in.
All comments welcome good or bad!
Until next time
Cheers
 

Attachments

  • C47DD4B7-2040-4DDD-BB3E-9F01038CEB95.jpeg
    C47DD4B7-2040-4DDD-BB3E-9F01038CEB95.jpeg
    234.4 KB · Views: 1

NHY 581

Western Thunderer
The smoke powder will tone down the rusty rails to a sort of red brown rather than orange. Well worth doing.

One thing Ade, what are you using to apply the powders?

I use cheap make up brushes. Recommend them rather than paint brushes.

Rob.
 
Top