Stirling Single Wheeler in G3

jamiepage

Western Thunderer
Ahh, Adrian may have a point.

I had assumed the buffers were self contained and fully assembled with CH screw in place, before being pushed into the buffer beams from the outside face.
(And not yet permanently affixed).

I had also assumed the CH screw wasn't actually fixing the buffer assembly in place, but securing the sprung buffer head within its body.

If however, for whatever reason, the CH screw needs to be inserted from the rear with the buffer already in situ, then the brake assembly is indeed in the way.
 

Jon Nazareth

Western Thunderer
Jamie, Jim, Adrian and Simon
I may go with Jamie's final suggestion and give some serious thought to reducing the length of the buffer stock tail. The stock can then be painted separately finally fixing in place with Araldite. If I reduce the tails of the buffer stocks, I'll then have to solder a blanking plate on the back for the screw and spring to bear against as the original will have been lost.
The block behind was originally full width but I removed a section out of the middle and angled back the lower section of the two separate pieces in order to facilitate the fitting of the rear brake hanger. I then screwed and soft soldered the short blocks back into position so, Simon, it would be a bit of a pain to try and de-assemble.
More anon as I'm off to get some horse poo for the garden while the sun is behind some clouds :D

Jon
 

Jon Nazareth

Western Thunderer
Steph
It's been far too hot to do anything and today's cloudiness couldn't be ignored. Six bags almost filled one of my compost bins and I'll be going back for more the next cloudy day that we have as I have two others to fill. After a year in one of the bins, it's good enough for the vegetable beds.

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Four buffer stocks shortened with one to show how they were originally. Movement has been restricted to 1/4" so that it takes place within the 'block'. I can't work out how I came to have five of these un
 

Jon Nazareth

Western Thunderer
IMG_2259-002.JPG

Not that exciting but it's a start on the tender top/tank. What surprised me was the amount of distortion, bow, that took place in the angle. Can't quite remember what the temperature was when I soldered the first piece but I changed it to 260 for the second. It still distorted but not as much. The nickel is .020" and the angle 3/16" x .026". Maybe I should have used a thinner angle. My intention was to solder the same angle to the top edge of the sides and then the sides to the floor. The sides are .018" and I'm wondering if this isn't a good idea as I fear the sides will bow as the floor did. Any views from you chaps?

Jon

Jon
 
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