Stubby47's Buildings Workbench

Stubby47

Western Thunderer
Hi all.

Rather than add a repeat of what can be found elsewhere on the internet, I thought I'd just add my new / newer buildings to a workbench-type thread.

These first images are of a little shed for my "Tinner's Forge" layout. I'm adding some more details, starting with a chimney.


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Next will be guttering and a water barrel, lead flashing on the lean-to roof join, a repaint to the door and some door furniture.

Stu
 

farnetti

Western Thunderer

These first images are of a little shed for my "Tinner's Forge" layout. I'm adding some more details, starting with a chimney.

I love the green gunk on the lower pebbledash, totally authentic.

Ken
 

Stubby47

Western Thunderer
I've now built an inner frame for the Nissen hut.

The inner skin will be a sheet of 10thou plasticard, over which I'll add the scale sized pieces of corrugated sheet.
I'm toying with over-laying this with thin kitchen foil.

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NHY 581

Western Thunderer
Hi Stubbers.

The challenge that this will present is maintaining the wriggly tin cross section which will want to flatten as it is curved.

How will you achieve this?

Rob.
 

Stubby47

Western Thunderer
Stern words...

If that doesn't work, heat and prebending/rolling the flat sheet.

I've got a curved roof on the n/g loco shed, and that's stayed in place, so a similar method should work again.
 

Stubby47

Western Thunderer
As an experiment, a largish piece of Slater's corrugated plasticard was hand rolled to a slight curve. It was then further rolled around a suitable cylinder (it happened to be a white board marker), then a standard pencil.

This gives a reasonable curve to the sheet, which was then cut up into scale-sized sheets (10'6" x 6').

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Two of these were then stuck on with pva (Anita's Tacky glue, from The Range (other glues & shops are available)) to the card shell and secured with tight-enough fitting elastic bands.

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Once these are dry, I'll see how well the fit to the required shape. It might mean more rolling around pens/pencils to make the curve even more pronounced. The upper, centre-line sections will need to be a tad over the 42mm long standard pieces, to give a reasonable overlap - this of course can then be stuck with liquid poly to form a tighter join.
 
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simond

Western Thunderer
Stu,

might it be worth not overlapping the pieces?

I guess they are way more than scale thickness, and the overlap might therefore look rather over-obvious & clunky.

Would it perhaps be better to butt-joint the pieces, with a thin layer under the lower edge of the upper piece, to push it out and thus simulate the overlap? You'd need the overlapped part to be smaller, of course.

I've never done this, so please treat as a suggestion rather than a recommendation! It won't be as strong as your method, not sure if that is an issue.

best
Simon
 
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Stubby47

Western Thunderer
Hi Simon, you are quite right, the overlapped ridge will look very large, especially as the sheets are much flatter on the rear so don't sit perfectly in the grooves.
I've only added the two lower pieces so far to help with this sort of conundrum. If the overlap is better suited to overlaid tin foil, pressed into the grooves, then a single pieces of plasticard could be used to cover the whole semi-circle, in scale 6' widths, or indeed a single piece for the whole roof.

I've filed the underside of the sheets before, to effect a rusted, eaten-away finish, though I suspect these pieces of tin would be regularly checked and maintained. It might be possible to thin the edges down to a reasonable thickness - apart from the end pieces this would not be visible.

I need to try things out a bit more.

This building will be at the front-centre of the layout, acting as a partial view-blocker for the n/g line, so there's no hiding place for shoddy work.
 

simond

Western Thunderer
I really quite like the idea of covering the whole hut with a single layer of corrugated plasticard, then putting scale sized pieces of foil over it. I think that might be an answer to a question I hadn’t got around to asking!

At some point, I need to model a GW sand furnace. I think I now know how to!

Thanks
Simon
 

Stubby47

Western Thunderer
Coming soon.... a 7mm scale static caravan.... (for those who've not seen my work elsewhere, I have a dubious reputation for making caravans, and, er, toilets...)

The main shell has been laser cut from 3mm ply and it will be clad in plasticard.
 
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