A (nother) China Clay layout

matto21

Western Thunderer
Looking good Matt appears you are pleased with them, are they going to be screwed together as one? I assume if not you’ll need pattern makers metal dowels 25mm Brass Pattern Makers Dowel Model Railway Train Set Baseboard Alignment Join 656727799002 | eBay
If you’re keeping them as 3 boards?
Cheers

They come with bolts to attach multiple modules together. I'll be keeping them as one board for simplicity. I will be adding a frame for a fascia to the front, maybe this weekend weather permitting which'll add some needed rigidity.

Not only am I pleased with the boards, I have to give credit to Scale Model Scenery for the excellent service.

Matt
 

AdeMoore

Western Thunderer
They come with bolts to attach multiple modules together. I'll be keeping them as one board for simplicity. I will be adding a frame for a fascia to the front, maybe this weekend weather permitting which'll add some needed rigidity.

Not only am I pleased with the boards, I have to give credit to Scale Model Scenery for the excellent service.

Matt
Good to hear of excellent service. I wasn’t aware they came with bolts sounds better all the time.
Cheers
 

matto21

Western Thunderer
Been doing a bit of planning tonight with some turnout templates and spare lengths of flexi track. I've adopted my old faithful track plan.

IMG_20190905_225715.jpg

The cardboard represents the loading dock of the main building.

IMG_20190905_225653.jpg

The siding on the right is just a space filler - if it remains, it'll probably just be overgrown.

The plan gives some nice angles though in my opinion:

IMG_20190905_225635.jpg

IMG_20190905_225622.jpg

IMG_20190905_225555.jpg

Matt
 

matto21

Western Thunderer
Nice photogenic angles there Matt, what is the rail you’re using there?
Probably needs a fiddle yard now!
Cheers

It's C&L flexi track in the photos Ade, but I'll use Peco Bullhead for both this and Talerddig because the sleeper height matches the Code 75 points.

C&L sleeper bases are thinner which means packing the track to match up - a bit of a faff I could do without!

A fiddle yard will be needed - not sure what yet though!

Matt
 

matto21

Western Thunderer
I always like this idea of modelling 'disused track' in a plan. :thumbs:
My one problem is fitting it into the layouts I build!! :oops:

I like this layout already! :bowdown:

Thank you Jordan, I'm hoping it'll fill up the space at the front-right effectively.

This last week has been an emotional one for the family, and it continues to be so, so having this to focus on has been a really welcome distraction.

I've mocked up the clay dry tonight from card, just to get a feel for the space available. Note, the shape/style of the building may change.

IMG_20190907_220133.jpg

IMG_20190907_220210.jpg

The roll of tape serves no purpose other than to hold things together while the glue dries.

Matt
 

jonte

Western Thunderer
Connecting those modules together is a great idea, Matt, and I have to agree with other posters that the track plan and general arrangement is ideal for the area available.

I can empathise with you about the chores being a hinderance to progressive modelling. My latest ‘window’ has been eaten into already with a week taken to refurnish and paint my daughter’s front door; and I’ve now moved onto the staircase which will have the Newel posts and rails picked out in a contrasting colour. I’m already fed up with miles of masking (it’s an Edwardian era house so you can imagine the length of the staircase!).And while painting, my son rang to say his shower’s packed up........And all this after having redecorated my own kitchen.

Oh well, modelling on the back-burner yet again :(

Jonte
 

matto21

Western Thunderer
I can sympathise Jonte, our house is from the Art Deco period. When we moved in all the classic features had been removed or obscured. My wife is obsessed with putting some character back into it. All well and good, but it doesn't half take a long time to get things done!

Matt
 

jonte

Western Thunderer
I can sympathise Jonte, our house is from the Art Deco period. When we moved in all the classic features had been removed or obscured. My wife is obsessed with putting some character back into it. All well and good, but it doesn't half take a long time to get things done!

Matt

Especially for one with an eye for detail like your good self ;)
 

matto21

Western Thunderer
I need your help fellow Thunderers!

I'm almost at the stage of laying the track so before I do so, I need to think about point control.

I'm no good at electronics or wiring at all. It's the part of the hobby that holds the least interest for me. With previous layouts I've always gone for Insulfrog points and left it at that. While that's removed the need for any wiring, the flip side is I've always been frustrated by a lack of point control.

Here's my trackplan:

IMG_20190909_153030.jpg

The red section I'd like to be able to isolate.

I have sufficient electrofrog points, switches, isolating fishplates, Gaugemaster PM-10 motors and a CDU for the layout. What I do with them and how I fit them all together is the problem!

I've researched online and watched videos until I'm blue in the face but I still need help! I'm using DC and don't want any fanciness beyond an isolated section and motorised points controlled by switches mounted to the front of the baseboard.

Is anyone willing to help me, either here or by PM ?

Thanks in advance.

Matt
 

NHY 581

Western Thunderer
Hi Matt.

All of my layouts use pokey finger point actuation. Now that's not ideal to most but works for me.

I have got but not used, Caboose Industries point levers as used by Chris Nevard on Brewhouse Quay. They are not too intrusive on the eye.

Here are some photos.

Layout photos are by Chris Nevard. 2019-09-09-18-44-56-238723255.jpegblogentry-6681-0-16199000-1304423099_thumb.jpgblogentry-6681-0-08988800-1304422484_thumb.jpg
 

jonte

Western Thunderer
I need your help fellow Thunderers!

I'm almost at the stage of laying the track so before I do so, I need to think about point control.

I'm no good at electronics or wiring at all. It's the part of the hobby that holds the least interest for me. With previous layouts I've always gone for Insulfrog points and left it at that. While that's removed the need for any wiring, the flip side is I've always been frustrated by a lack of point control.

Here's my trackplan:

View attachment 110973

The red section I'd like to be able to isolate.

I have sufficient electrofrog points, switches, isolating fishplates, Gaugemaster PM-10 motors and a CDU for the layout. What I do with them and how I fit them all together is the problem!

I've researched online and watched videos until I'm blue in the face but I still need help! I'm using DC and don't want any fanciness beyond an isolated section and motorised points controlled by switches mounted to the front of the baseboard.

Is anyone willing to help me, either here or by PM ?

Thanks in advance.

Matt

Hi Matt

Apologies for being late to the party but been decorating again today so have only just found your post.

Have a look at Brian Lambert’s site which I’ve always found a great help with the black art of electrics Untitled Page

As you’ll find, he explains everything quite simply with e.g.s and diagrams, some like your own plan.

If you’re still stuck tomorrow, PM me and I’ll do my bestest ;)

Jonte
 

paulc

Western Thunderer
Pokey finger point control (i like that) and DCC . Next to no wiring , apart from the decoders and the frogs and the track . Ah well seemed like a good idea .
Good luck , i would offer to help but being in Aus has it's draw backs .
Cheers Paul
 

Jordan

Mid-Western Thunderer
I have got but not used, Caboose Industries point levers as used by Chris Nevard ....
I use Caboose Industries Ground Throws (to give them their proper/American title ;) ) too, but I recommend using the size below your scale to make them a bit more realistic. I.E. I model in O Scale, but use C.I.'s "HO Scale" throws. In OO or HO I would use the N Scale throw. In N Scale I'd use.... something else entirely I expect!! :oops:
I've also used under-board rods for point control, & wire-in-tube. Been in the hobby over 40 years - not once have I ever used point motors on any of my layouts!! It's the KISS principle ;)

Keep It Simple, Stupid!! :oops: :shit:

One question to Matt re the isolating section - why the headshunt? & will the point be self-isolating, giving you additional places to hold a second loco, in the loops & siding?
Okay, that's two questions, but - oh never mind!!! :rolleyes:
 

matto21

Western Thunderer
Thanks for taking the time to post some thoughts and suggestions. I'm not sure about the point levers, but wire in the tube is my backup if all else fails!

As mentioned, previous layouts have used insulfrogs and pokey finger point control. But I want to push myself to try more this time but therein lies my problem. I just don't know how to do it!

Give me some wagons to build and paint or a building to scratchbuild and I'm well within my comfort zone! Ask me to connect two wires to a piece of track and I struggle, any more is like trying to carry water in a sieve: very difficult!

Jordan, in reality I don't need an isolating section, it was just another thing to add to my wishlist of things I'd like to be able to do!

Matt
 

Stubby47

Western Thunderer
For anyone that's interested in these boards, here's how they look assembled:

View attachment 110742

Really lightweight and simple to assemble.

My initial plan was to have a curved backscene. I actually don't think I'll bother now, but I will be adding a one piece layer of something to hide the joins.

Matt

For a cheap backscene, a roll of lining paper would work, and could give you curves in the corners.
 
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