Non Modelling help

InvernessTMD

Western Thunderer
I am busy refurbishing my camping trailer, mainly by cleaning up all the rust and giving it a coat of paint. When I removed the data plate teh rivets holding it on started spinning and have worn the metal plate away, making reattaching it nigh on impossible. The makers don't do replacements so I need another way!
It looks like it might be etched into the surface then painted. I am wondering if something could be laser engraved?

TIA
 

simond

Western Thunderer
I’d expect it was etched into anodised aluminium, I’m sure I’ve seen some data labels like that.

it would be practical to laser etch 2-layer plastic (or mechanically engrave it like hotel key rings) but you’d need something with some thrutch to engrave metal.

there are companies who specialise in labelling but I’d expect they are more aimed at volume, rather than a one-off.

could you not simply attach it with epoxy? You could even add dummy rivets...

Atb
Simon
 

Osgood

Western Thunderer
How much do you want a quality plate?
There is a great guy in Poland who has made one-off WW2 era brass / zinc data plates for me to my emailed artwork - highest quality great value (check spelling on proofs carefully :D ).
Might be worth emailing him a photo with dimensions and asking for a price?

Link to his facebook page:
HORNE

But what about Intentio though? I'm sure Phil could laser on to a suitable material.
 

AJC

Western Thunderer
Clean, paint, glue plate back on, glue on 2 x dummy rivet heads, collect COB (Certificate of Bodgery).

I'd be mixing the epoxy already (says he fresh from stabilising the surface of a lath and plaster wall with copious PVA...).

Adam
 

adrian

Flying Squad
That would be a bodge! I want to try and do it properly,
I can understand that - what material is the metal plate? What about fitting a blank disk to the oversize hole, solder? and then drill new smaller holes for the new rivets.
 

Eastsidepilot

Western Thunderer
Make a thin plate same profile bond it on under side of original plate with epoxy then re-drill for new rivets.
Col.
 

class27

Active Member
you can get pop rivets in various head sizes versus shank sizes. You should find the correct repair rivet easily
 

InvernessTMD

Western Thunderer
Photo for you all. Non magnetic so will be aluminium.
I see where people are comming from saying large head river or washer and rivet but I want to do it properly!
20200525_144826.jpg
 

Osgood

Western Thunderer
Well I guess the simple answer is you can’t do it properly!

Looks like your plate has a thin plastic film onto the aluminium, onto which the data is then printed.
An ideal candidate for washers behind the pop rivets and membership of the Bodgers Club (you don't have to wear the tie).
You could glue it onto another piece of aluminium, having first drilled the holes in the original plate out to the same dia. as or just smaller than the formed rivet head so they neatly fill the larger hole.

You could always replace it with a bespoke Inverness TMD 2020 Rebuild plate :)
 

MarkR

Western Thunderer
Having been in the nameplate industry all my working life, I would hazard a guess, the nameplate is produced by printing an anodic ink on to un-sealed anodized aluminium, when the ink has dried the material is chemically sealed and the surplus ink removed, low tack protective tape would be applied before matching.

Best regards
Mark
 

MarkR

Western Thunderer
Sorry, I mean't a low tack protective tape would be applied before machining.

Mark
 

Osgood

Western Thunderer
I had to look up anodic ink printing - interesting.
I dare Inverness TMD to peel a corner off - I don't think I'd be able to resist it!
 
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