Ummm it’s not going well!
Probably time to give up and get ack to the layout!
Just lost any artistry with the brush weathering or anything.
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I went for the fibreglass brush to flatten the none matt matt black it is the old 33 colour making shiny somehow as under the chute I had no 33 colour on and it went matt. So I do need a new tin or go to mig or one of the others I e been reading about. The 2nd panel I dislike with the vertical scratches but that was where I had to get a paint brush hair off!
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The inside I’m not too displeased with as I plan a removable load that will cover it when I decide it’s actually not that good.
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Next I tried some stone dust effect, which I tried with powdered colour pastels I’d read about then a waft of matt varnish to hold. Perhaps it needed another waft but it didn’t fix. Couldn’t get enough to stick for the effect I was after anyway!
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Lastly I was after an effect like @NHY581 Rob achieves here
Sheep blokes weathering. see the 16T mineral there. I’ve read his descriptions before and even spoke to Rob personally but try as I might I can’t get the powder A to stick and B on in such small concentrated amounts with any tiny brush I try. I’m using humbrol powders same as him they maybe are a bit old. Dunno.
I managed this before.
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So as you can see it’s not going well compared to that.
I may just finish putting the rest of the bits on couplings hand wheels handrail err. That I left off for painting and see if inspiration takes me.
Cheers all
Ade
I feel your pain, Ade, I really do.
It really is a trial this weathering business, for me anyway. I find sometimes I’m up, sometimes I’m down but mostly down....
Not that I’m particularly experienced in this field or any other, but perhaps the little knowledge I’ve gained over the years might be of use if you don’t mind my sharing It?
In anticipation that you won’t mind, I’ll throw in my tuppence halfpenny’s worth which I sincerely hope n trust might be of use; please feel free to ignore.
Like you, I prefer to mix up my own shades of rust from Humbrol enamels - acrylics will probably achieve the same, only I’m more used to the enamels. I find that a range of colours on a mixed palette allows you those slight nuances that real rust has and provides a more seamless transformation from one shade to another that I feel the pre-prepared products don’t provide. Perhaps Im just kidding myself thinking this, but I like to think that I can see it anyway. This is not a criticism of these excellent products on the market used by masters of the art such as Rob to achieve these wonderful effects, it’s just a personal thoing.....
Here’s my recipe for ‘rust’:
Matt 62 (Your good friend ‘Leather’ which you’ve already used to good effect)
Matt 160
Matt 70
Matt 119
Matt 82 (Orange)
Matt 33 Black
All Humbrol enamels, and apologies for not recalling the names of each.
Here’s a makeshift mixing chart to give you an idea of what shades can be achieved:
Not definitive by any means, but enough for this less than average trier.
The Orange isn’t shown on this chart but can be seen mixed with say leather (62) on the following to give you an idea:
The iPad camera shows this a little lighter than it is, but of course, this is what the black and darker browns can help with if you want to darken the shade.
What do they look like on a model?
Here a couple of examples. The first is my current project which features an ‘orangey’ effect so typical of many weather beaten corrugated rooves:
Still a work in progress, but you can get an idea of what can be achieved as I say, Ade.
A darker shade can be seen on the down pipes of this recently binned station building that was never a serious project, and was mixed with the darker shades plus a tad of black:
And here’s something in between which I think makes a good starting point:
I apply as washes initially, then dry-brush towards the end, but I suppose there are better ways of applying it.
The PVA is something I would shy away from: too aggressive and permanent as you've found to your cost.
There are many products on the market - I’ve a MIG chipping product somewhere which I’ve yet to use, but as it’s meant for acrylics, I’ve yet to give it a go but I’ve read military modelling/Sci-fi mags where I’ve seen it used to great effect, and of course, there’s the good ol’ salt n water method - but I tend to use Maskol which isn’t as aggressive or permanent:
It’s just artists latex masking sold by Humbrol, so if you’ve some of it around, it will probably work.
Hope I’m not telling the proverbial granny here, Ade, and I’ve no doubt you know much of this already, but just in case you might have forgotten.....
As I say, please feel free to ignore any or all of these well-intended mutterings, but they seem (I hope) to work for this limited modeller.
Good luck anyway, Ade. You’ll get there in the end.
Jonte
Edit: Here’s the roof in a different light to try and give a more balanced look of the finish:
Jonte