In the Last Days of Steam in Gloucestershite - A second glance by Ben Ashworth there are two photographs (pages 17 & 18) of D2137 on 28th Sept 1961 in All over green with NO tiger stripes.
I want to paint my Blue Bachmann 03 - complete with Airbrakes to be this loco. Obviously I need to remove the air tank and just leave the vacumn pipe on the bufferbeam - are there any other changes I shoulkd make....
Thanks
Kelvin
Hi Kelvin
Good to see someone else modelling in 1/32nd. I have allready detailed my 1/32 Bachmann 03 shunter, So from expierence I feel can tell you what I did to detail and make it into D2136 which can be seen on my Worcester Road layout.
The first thing I did was to remove the lamp irons and re-solder them into the right plane for the Western Region. I made a radiator that sits behind the radiator grill to prevent people seeing right through the inside of the shunter. I scratchbuilt the footsteps for the bonnet sides and the cab end, I used a different drawbar and coupling hook (Marklin, prototype coupler with mounting spring - code 56101), the one supplied from memory was far to large.
The real work and time was put into detailing the cab interior. the inside of the cab was painted in pale cream, the drivers desk and controls were all painted and at the same time dials were added. I made a wooden floor from plasticard, I obtained the 2 identical drivers from the S&D range and then set to on removing their arms and replacing them with spares obtained from military personal kits, The driver was given a scratch built jacket made from milliput and hopefully this is enough to make the driver and secondman a little bit more individual, at the same time I made 2 Drivers bags (again utilising spare military items of German orientation), I also scratchbuilt the seats.
The most painfull job was cutting out all the glazing, however I would now contact Brain Hanson (Shawplan/Extreme Etchings) and give him the cab so he could make the Glazing for you. (Fred Phipps gave him the Class 22 body and Brian has produced the glazing). External details added are the shed code base plate (spare from my Fred Phipps 1/32nd kits) a Swindon builders plate from the Diane Carney range, a little expensive but you get what you pay for. the numbers were made for me by John Isherwood at Cambridge Custom Transfers ( I believe John has now retired and someone else has taken over the range, apologies I do not know who) the BR emblem, shed code oval stencil along with the data panel come from the excellent Fred Phipps/Caradoc models pressfix range (The best transfers I have ever worked with). I scratch built the shunters pole and all the other details seen on the running plate are from the S&D range. Weathering is a combination of airbrushing and dry brushing. There you go down to you now. the cab and bonnet come apart very easily by removing the screws.
Happy modelling, I look forward to your progress. If you need any shed code base plates just say so as i believe I may have a spare set.
Regards
Mr TV (Engine shed foreman - Worcester Road)
