On Heather's Workbench - going wide
- Thread starter Heather Kay
- Start date
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
You are correct, Fraser. I will fit the drop lights after painting. 
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
If I had to travel to work I'd probably give myself weekends off. As it is, I find the workbench draws me in most days.
I realised it would be sensible to get the roof detailing fairly well advanced before paintwork began on the bodies. The S6 kit included a rolled brass roof, which just needed some minor adjustment to get the shape to fit neatly. I decided not to try and use the IKB roof fitting method, although I have retained the inner end parts - there must have been a reason, probably to do with floor height and getting the end seats to fit.
Anyway, holes have been marked out and drilled for the lamp castings. I also used the same fixing method as for the V8, so the roof is a sliding fit into the body.
Rain strips are 0.7mm brass wire. I soldered some lengths to a bit of scrap, and filed them to give me flats on opposite sides. To fit to the roof, I tack soldered the centre, to a nominal scale six inches from the edge, did the same for the ends, then let solder flow along the length. After cleaning up and some further attention with files, it looks okay to me.
Not sure about whether a roof covering of some kind would be apt. I think I shall try to give some texture using paint, rather than risk a tissue covering distorting the brass.
(Edited to complete the post after inadvertently punching the Post button instead of the Upload button!)
I realised it would be sensible to get the roof detailing fairly well advanced before paintwork began on the bodies. The S6 kit included a rolled brass roof, which just needed some minor adjustment to get the shape to fit neatly. I decided not to try and use the IKB roof fitting method, although I have retained the inner end parts - there must have been a reason, probably to do with floor height and getting the end seats to fit.
Anyway, holes have been marked out and drilled for the lamp castings. I also used the same fixing method as for the V8, so the roof is a sliding fit into the body.
Rain strips are 0.7mm brass wire. I soldered some lengths to a bit of scrap, and filed them to give me flats on opposite sides. To fit to the roof, I tack soldered the centre, to a nominal scale six inches from the edge, did the same for the ends, then let solder flow along the length. After cleaning up and some further attention with files, it looks okay to me.
Not sure about whether a roof covering of some kind would be apt. I think I shall try to give some texture using paint, rather than risk a tissue covering distorting the brass.
(Edited to complete the post after inadvertently punching the Post button instead of the Upload button!)
Last edited:
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
The part of the S6 build I had been dreading most was having to split the underframe etch right down the middle. The IKB instructions outline how much material needs to be inserted to widen the underframe parts for the Broad Gauge - 17mm.
Here's the supplied Dean 19ft underframe, or at least the middle bit. Obviously other parts have to be sacrificed on the altar of the seven foot, namely the headstocks. Replacements are provided on etch, though fixing them in place is something I still have to work out. I ran a craft knife along the half etch fold lines, then exerted a bending moment to break them off, then cleaned up with a file. All the other stuff on this part of the frames is for mounting the hornblock/springing arrangement and those lovely fiddly outside-rigged clasp brakes.
I was actually quite worried about how I was going to split the etch, until I turned it over. There's a neat half-etch line for me to follow.
Here's the result of my labours a short while later. I cleaned back the cusp of the half-etch, then sliced out a length of suitable flat material 17mm wide. I left it slightly over long. Incidentally, not being one to waste anything if I can avoid it, the slice is from the abortive V8 roof that was too short.
So, how do I join these three parts together?
I taped an engineering square to my block of paxolin, butted the ends of the underframe and infill strip to it, squared up as best as possible, applied a couple of metres of tape to hold things down, and blobbed great lumps of cored solder to tack things in place. The next stage will be to lay some flat brass strip across to reinforce things, but I'm all done for today.
Here's the supplied Dean 19ft underframe, or at least the middle bit. Obviously other parts have to be sacrificed on the altar of the seven foot, namely the headstocks. Replacements are provided on etch, though fixing them in place is something I still have to work out. I ran a craft knife along the half etch fold lines, then exerted a bending moment to break them off, then cleaned up with a file. All the other stuff on this part of the frames is for mounting the hornblock/springing arrangement and those lovely fiddly outside-rigged clasp brakes.
I was actually quite worried about how I was going to split the etch, until I turned it over. There's a neat half-etch line for me to follow.
Here's the result of my labours a short while later. I cleaned back the cusp of the half-etch, then sliced out a length of suitable flat material 17mm wide. I left it slightly over long. Incidentally, not being one to waste anything if I can avoid it, the slice is from the abortive V8 roof that was too short.
So, how do I join these three parts together?
I taped an engineering square to my block of paxolin, butted the ends of the underframe and infill strip to it, squared up as best as possible, applied a couple of metres of tape to hold things down, and blobbed great lumps of cored solder to tack things in place. The next stage will be to lay some flat brass strip across to reinforce things, but I'm all done for today.
OzzyO
Western Thunderer
All you need is some thin tissue paper (the cheap sort) you only want one of the two ply. Lay the tissue over the roof add a drop of super-glue at the middle top at one end, let it set then pull at the other end and add a drop of glue, then add a drop of glue at the four corners.
You now have a choice of how to fix the rest of the tissue down, lots of cheap super glue or (spry on or brush) on very thin oil based paint (primer). Let it all dry then you can cut off the bit that has gone over the rain strips.
The hard part will be getting the tissue to wrap under the coach roof.
OzzyO.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
Good thinking, that man. I might experiment with alternate adhesives, such as Spraymount, but it would be a lot better than just painted brass.
Now, passenger communication cords… *reaches for reference materials*
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
The paint shop was warmed through, I set about mixing the etch primer, and eventually managed to get a consistency that worked. Call it lack of experience with the medium, but it turns out I needed more thinners than the official instructions suggest.
The bodies are now drying for a couple of days. I must resist the temptation to go and see how they're doing! It's not like I don't have a thousand and one other jobs that need my attention.
The bodies are now drying for a couple of days. I must resist the temptation to go and see how they're doing! It's not like I don't have a thousand and one other jobs that need my attention.
Dog Star
Western Thunderer
Pardon the thought... surely you meant to say "ten thousand and one other jobs"? Or maybe "10000 and 10001" might be more accurate?
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
To be strictly accurate, it would be twenty thousand and two - if the current list of builds is correct.
warren haywood
Western Thunderer
spray at about 12 to 15 psi
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
A quick squint at the primed bodies yesterday showed all seemed well. The plan is for a light coat of acrylic grey primer today as a base coat for the livery colours.
I had a go at the roof canvas.
I think that turned out as well as can be expected. I took a standard man size tissue and delaminated it. I trimmed to a size that gave a fair overlap to the roof. Using Spraymount, I liberally sprayed over the tissue, then laying it gently in place, worked at it with a stiff bristle brush to work it into the rainstrips and across the roof itself. I kept a slight tension on to try and avoid wrinkles.
Overlapping the sides was not a problem. Overlapping the ends, with a narrower lip, was a bit of a problem. Trimming the tissue once in place is not easy, as it snags with even the sharpest blade.
I decided a second layer was needed. To fix the tissue under the ends I have run cyano glue into it.
The Spraymount worked well. It has enough tack to hold the tissue in place on the brass, but still allows some adjustment if a wrinkle begins to form. Once the lamps and sundry details have been fitted, a coat of grey primer and some weathering will finish things nicely, I think.
I had a go at the roof canvas.
I think that turned out as well as can be expected. I took a standard man size tissue and delaminated it. I trimmed to a size that gave a fair overlap to the roof. Using Spraymount, I liberally sprayed over the tissue, then laying it gently in place, worked at it with a stiff bristle brush to work it into the rainstrips and across the roof itself. I kept a slight tension on to try and avoid wrinkles.
Overlapping the sides was not a problem. Overlapping the ends, with a narrower lip, was a bit of a problem. Trimming the tissue once in place is not easy, as it snags with even the sharpest blade.
I decided a second layer was needed. To fix the tissue under the ends I have run cyano glue into it.
The Spraymount worked well. It has enough tack to hold the tissue in place on the brass, but still allows some adjustment if a wrinkle begins to form. Once the lamps and sundry details have been fitted, a coat of grey primer and some weathering will finish things nicely, I think.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
By some miracle I have managed to bodge together an underframe that is not a million miles from being square and true! Considering the start this thing had in life, I am astounded - nay, flabbergasted!
With hindsight it would have been sensible to leave the original headstocks in place, simply split down the middle when the main etch was divided. As it is, I'm not entirely convinced by the provided BGS headstocks, but they scrub up reasonably with the overlays on.
The looped objects on the upturned frame are the brake hangers. This coach will be blessed with the outside clasp brake gear, and the brake shoes fit on the loops with the operating levers passing through. It'll make more sense when I start to put it together, I hope.
I am now sick of the sight of the thing, so fitting the suspension system can wait for another day.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
The first coat of cream has gone on the coach bodies. Meanwhile, I've been making slow progress with the S6 underframe.
I figured I couldn't make yesterday's efforts any better. Erring on the side of not making things worse, I'm leaving them as they are, hoping the details and paint will hide the worst.
Happily, this kit has matching suspension units, so I've folded them up and fixed them in place. Apologies for the messy soldering. It's not as good as it could be, and I blame the sunspots. The system is straightforward: internal horn guides have sliding bearings, supported on a steel wire spring that sits in the little upstand brackets on the floor. In this view, you can see I've left part of the etch supports across the horn guide, mainly for damage limitation. I'll chop them out as I can't fit the bearings otherwise!
Here's a wheelset posed with the bearings. The latter are folded up from etch. It's all very neat, and ought to work nicely. If I can get the underframe rolling today, that would make me feel happy.
I figured I couldn't make yesterday's efforts any better. Erring on the side of not making things worse, I'm leaving them as they are, hoping the details and paint will hide the worst.
Happily, this kit has matching suspension units, so I've folded them up and fixed them in place. Apologies for the messy soldering. It's not as good as it could be, and I blame the sunspots. The system is straightforward: internal horn guides have sliding bearings, supported on a steel wire spring that sits in the little upstand brackets on the floor. In this view, you can see I've left part of the etch supports across the horn guide, mainly for damage limitation. I'll chop them out as I can't fit the bearings otherwise!
Here's a wheelset posed with the bearings. The latter are folded up from etch. It's all very neat, and ought to work nicely. If I can get the underframe rolling today, that would make me feel happy.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
Well, the S6 is on wheels.
To my amazement it runs fairly well on the test plank. Not wishing to spend a while fiddling with the brake rigging, I set things aside for a spell.
When I'm not in a mood for long stretches of complex brass knitting, I tend to fettle away at little jobs on a build. Having stuck the "canvas" on the roofs, I set about cleaning up and fitting the lamps and associated gubbins.
As I now know, the smaller objects are lamp plugs, sat on their brackets. I have found you can acquire the brackets alone from the BGS, so you have the option of running a coach where the oil lamps have been removed. I have some extra plugs on order from the society for the PLV. Once both roofs are detailed, I think a squirt of grey primer and some weathering will suffice. I know roofs of this period started out white, but the general consensus is they didn't stay that way very long once in service.
Meanwhile, the bodies are undergoing painting. The cooler, damper weather means it takes longer for the paint to dry nice and hard. I got some extra coats of cream on them today, aided by a hairdryer to warm the work up a bit. If they have dried enough by tomorrow, I'll bring them down and stick them in the airing cupboard for a day or so, after which I can think about masking for the brown to go on.
To my amazement it runs fairly well on the test plank. Not wishing to spend a while fiddling with the brake rigging, I set things aside for a spell.
When I'm not in a mood for long stretches of complex brass knitting, I tend to fettle away at little jobs on a build. Having stuck the "canvas" on the roofs, I set about cleaning up and fitting the lamps and associated gubbins.
As I now know, the smaller objects are lamp plugs, sat on their brackets. I have found you can acquire the brackets alone from the BGS, so you have the option of running a coach where the oil lamps have been removed. I have some extra plugs on order from the society for the PLV. Once both roofs are detailed, I think a squirt of grey primer and some weathering will suffice. I know roofs of this period started out white, but the general consensus is they didn't stay that way very long once in service.
Meanwhile, the bodies are undergoing painting. The cooler, damper weather means it takes longer for the paint to dry nice and hard. I got some extra coats of cream on them today, aided by a hairdryer to warm the work up a bit. If they have dried enough by tomorrow, I'll bring them down and stick them in the airing cupboard for a day or so, after which I can think about masking for the brown to go on.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
A pair of coach bodies with cream paint, about to go into the Advanced Air Drying Facility (aka my airing cupboard) to hopefully cure the paint nice and hard.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
No piccies, but a progress report.
After about 24 hours in the AADF - thank goodness for central heating, and having our hot water tank in there - I had a good look at the paint finish. It was nice and hard, but looked a little green in certain lights. No matter, I inspected for grollies, found some and carefully rubbed them down. I didn't plan on a respray, because it's a pound to a penny I'll need to retouch once the brown stuff has gone on.
Anyway, masking went ahead, at which point I found the V8 lookouts were skew whiff.
A bit of gentle persuasion, and they came away from the body with minimal collateral damage. I adjusted the locations, made good and masked the V8 anyway.
With the aid of the hairdryer, I managed to get a good layer of brown paint on both bodies. They are currently drying under cover, and tomorrow I'll retrieve them from the loft space and stick them in the AADF.
Meanwhile, between work on the other builds, I've been confirming the work I need to do with lining these coaches. The fine brown line around the cream panels is something to think about (having had a nice chat with Mr Beare on an unrelated topic, we came up with some potential answers). I am also wondering what colour paint really would give a good facsimile of gold. Things to ponder.
After about 24 hours in the AADF - thank goodness for central heating, and having our hot water tank in there - I had a good look at the paint finish. It was nice and hard, but looked a little green in certain lights. No matter, I inspected for grollies, found some and carefully rubbed them down. I didn't plan on a respray, because it's a pound to a penny I'll need to retouch once the brown stuff has gone on.
Anyway, masking went ahead, at which point I found the V8 lookouts were skew whiff.
A bit of gentle persuasion, and they came away from the body with minimal collateral damage. I adjusted the locations, made good and masked the V8 anyway.
With the aid of the hairdryer, I managed to get a good layer of brown paint on both bodies. They are currently drying under cover, and tomorrow I'll retrieve them from the loft space and stick them in the AADF.
Meanwhile, between work on the other builds, I've been confirming the work I need to do with lining these coaches. The fine brown line around the cream panels is something to think about (having had a nice chat with Mr Beare on an unrelated topic, we came up with some potential answers). I am also wondering what colour paint really would give a good facsimile of gold. Things to ponder.
simond
Western Thunderer
Heather
I've had some success with the Staedler ones in this page. I've also used Edding, but not for modelling
http://www.cultpens.com/c/q/explore/ink-colour/gold-ink-pens
Other suppliers exist..
HTH
Simon
I've had some success with the Staedler ones in this page. I've also used Edding, but not for modelling
http://www.cultpens.com/c/q/explore/ink-colour/gold-ink-pens
Other suppliers exist..
HTH
Simon
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
Thanks Simon. I'll take a wander throught that site later. A quick look showed nib thicknesses stopped around 0.7mm, which is a bit wide for what I want. I hope they stock things that go smaller.
I shall probably use the bow pen for the main lining. If I can't find a suitable gold paint, then it'll be the old standby of a sand or ochre colour.
I shall probably use the bow pen for the main lining. If I can't find a suitable gold paint, then it'll be the old standby of a sand or ochre colour.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
While waiting for paint to cure, I've been fitting the running boards and thinking about the springs and axle box castings.
The step brackets are Slater's brass castings. While the kit includes brackets, they are folded from etch. For consistency, I've adopted the Slater's ones as the standard for this commission.
The springs have cast thingummies, the end support doodads that fit into the hangers. One has broken off, while most were bent at many angles. I've straightened most of the bent ones, but the broken one will need to be replaced, probably just drilled out and a short bit of wire dropped in. I need to review where the axle boxes sit, as this will affect the spring location, which is also dependent on the hangers. Too many variables! To the books!
The step brackets are Slater's brass castings. While the kit includes brackets, they are folded from etch. For consistency, I've adopted the Slater's ones as the standard for this commission.
The springs have cast thingummies, the end support doodads that fit into the hangers. One has broken off, while most were bent at many angles. I've straightened most of the bent ones, but the broken one will need to be replaced, probably just drilled out and a short bit of wire dropped in. I need to review where the axle boxes sit, as this will affect the spring location, which is also dependent on the hangers. Too many variables! To the books!