Painting and lining

daifly

Western Thunderer
Len - I've just tried all of the links and they work fine for me. You might need to clear your browser's cache.
 

warren haywood

Western Thunderer
Currently working on this Sancheng Terrier.
The livery looks complicated but once I got the hang of the corners it wasn't too bad. The red for some reason looks much thicker in the photos, maybe a bit over exposed. The name will be hand painted once all the lining is complete. I have another two of these to do for delivery at Telford:eek:

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Also progressing nicely is a GWR Single, although not too well built, I'm starting to see a silk purse from a pigs ear:D:headbang:
I will post some pictures of it when finished
 

Overseer

Western Thunderer
I am surprised you are brush painting the green. Masking the "improved engine green" areas with frisk (or Frisket) film cut to the panel shapes and spraying the green areas is the usual way of of getting all the green areas on the tank tops etc flat. The black lines were quite a bit wider than the white and red lines so I have ruled the red and white lines then add the black between, partly covering both.

My experience with the Stroudley livery is with the Highland version in 7mm, but I liked the livery so much I painted my narrow boat in a version of it nearly 20 years ago.
 

warren haywood

Western Thunderer
I will be spraying the tank tops and sides, these will be masked with tape and copydex.
The green on the toolbox and back of tender are only a couple of mil wide and are fine to the naked eye, the green still needs ruling on upto the red in order to create a boundary for the masking.
 

warren haywood

Western Thunderer
Well I've had aright nightmare with this one, built with paste flux and 70* solder, just about everything was fitted and when I went in with the blow torch to take off a couple of parts to ease lining it almost became a kit again:rant:

Got it back to something like gave it a thorough clean then painted the red bits, mask off paint green bits remove masking tape and with it lumps of red paint, strip back to bare metal and start again.:(

Second clean was reasonably successful as only small specks of paint came away this time so was able to touch them in with a brush. A few parts fell off whilst handling it durin lining but seeing it finished I think I have got away with it.
The plates are by Chris Watford and are absolutely stunning.

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Cliff Williams

Western Thunderer
Reminds of going in to do DCC conversions on kit built models - parts falling off faster than I can undo chassis screws!
Give me a nicely built Korean brass loco to work on any day of the week. I cannot get over the reliance on super glue for fixing whitemetal detail to brass on UK kit built stuff, a nightmare sometimes!
 

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
Having seen how that looked half way through the painting process I'm amazed - it looks superb. You definitely got away with it.
Steph
 

oldravendale

Western Thunderer
Interesting comments, Warren. (an, BTW, the finished job looks stunning!)

I built one of my very first models with 70 degree solder. It still holds together, and being a wagon was hardly the painting challenge presented by this loco, but by the time I'd moved in to my second kit I was using the normal range of solders I hope we all use now. What amazes me is that someone could have built such a wonderful model whilst relying on a fundamentally poor building technique.

I also thought that paste flux was the bees knees. In fairness, with high temp solders it seems to be OK, if messy to clean up afterwards. However, in combination with low temp solders it appears to not boil off properly and I had a problem with white metal parts falling off. I stopped using it! The safety flux, championed by Mickoo, seems to be the ideal combination with low temp solders.

Brian
 

adrian

Flying Squad
Hi,

Just experimenting with spraying with cellulose. What recommendations do people have for a satin varnish once I've got the transfers on? I'd prefer something for the airbrush rather than cans. Thanks.
 

adrian

Flying Squad
No problem - easy done. I've found that I've a bottle of Alclad 2 semi-matte lacquer - I might experiment with that to start with.
 

warren haywood

Western Thunderer
Adrian,
I use bog standard gloss celulose lacquer
Dilute it about 4:1 and spray from about 18" with quite a high pressure.
Because it's almost dry when it hits the model it doesn't affect enamel lining and detailing.
 

adrian

Flying Squad
Thanks for the info Warren.

First loco in the paint shop is plain black so lining isn't a problem. That said is there a reason you line with enamel rather than cellulose? I would have thought it would be better to stick with one type rather than mixing them.

Second if using a gloss lacquer how do you end up with a satin finish, is it the dilution, distance or pressure? i.e. what do I do to get a gloss finish or a satin finish if using the same lacquer?
 
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