P48 for Cotton Belt: Roster addition SW1200

SSW GP9

Yorkshire Dave

Western Thunderer
Well, I've finally taken the plunge into P48 for my US O scale. Next stop Anorak Central.

I've had a Red Caboose GP9 floating around for a few years and whist clearing out unwanted HO stuff I looked at the GP9 which which promptly whispered 'build me next'. After checking the kit I found the original gears had split so I ordered a replacement geared wheelset from North West Shortline albeit to O gauge 115 tread (however, there is room on the axle to close this to P48). I wanted the track gauge to be exact for 1/4'' scale and after much umming, erring and trawling through various P48 websites, P48 it is to be.

Trackwork will be handlaid code 100 to represent a branch line. Just need to decide which method - copper clad and solder (easy) or spikes and tie plates (????). I've still yet to order the switch parts but the rail is on order though.

I have also acquired several items of rolling stock including several boxcars to convert to SSW prototypes. The biggest conversion is to the Chessie International Car wide vision caboose. Effectively converting it from a Eastern road version to a SSW version which already means windows to move or blank out, cupola to raise, verandah end to rebuild etc etc.

I have at least made a start with the GP9. Knowing there was a sagging problem with the chassis, and after much discussion, I decided to strengthen the existing chassis with 3mm brass angle. The plastic chassis was effectively sandwiched between the brass angle and held together with superglue and 1mm machine screws.

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020 GP9 chassis.jpg

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The angle protruded into the truck mounting hole so I filed some of the brass to widen the hole but kept at least 1mmof the angle to preserve the strength. No more sagging chassis though.022 GP9 chassis.jpg
023 GP9 chassis.jpg

While messing about I also ordered loads of wheels and working knuckle couplers from Protocraft. And loads of decals and boxcar parts.

At present I'm using the new Atlas trucks which are closer to scale and the differences are noticeable. The old truck and wheels is on the left and the newer truck with the P48 wheels is on the right.

009 Atlas trucks.jpg
As for the couplers. This is an assembled version with a working cut lever. I have also put a small piece of steel wire in the top of the pin to enable a stick with a magnet on the end to be used. And it works. Good old 7mm British handrail knobs are used for the cut lever bracket.

008 Working knuckle coupler in closed and locked position.jpg

And the GP9..... will be good old Cotton Belt weathered bloody nose finish. More will follow.... and loads of research into boxcars which is a subject in it's own right.
 

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mickoo

Western Thunderer
Rubs hands, sits back.... I'm going to enjoy this :thumbs:

My first ever US model was an Athern GP9 which I resprayed into UP colours, probably the wrong body, dynamics and grills but it looked good all weathered up, no idea where it went, didn't sell it or break it up, just vanished in the mists of time.
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
They look nice, the only problem I've found with Kadees is the massive amount of slack between the couplers when they are joined, a good 2 mm, maybe more.

Couplers are something to explore once I've got something running and somewhere to run on ;)
 

Jordan

Mid-Western Thunderer
Well if I can do spike'n'tie plate track (albeit the cheapo way) then that's the least a dedicated P48-er should do.... solder & copper clad..??!!?? Well yes, for 'skeleton' turnouts ;)
Self-centering Protocraft couplers? Now there's an innovation!! Not prototypical though :p :D only kidding - it does make things easier when stringing together a consist.
I have a R/C GP9; can't say as I've noticed any sag in the frame. I've heard it happens mostly when people add more weight to the loco; as built it is a tad lighter than Atlas locos.
I too will be watching with interest!

PS Don't forget you might well not be an O scale modeller with this stuff, though!! ;)
/Pedant Mode OFF
 
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Yorkshire Dave

Western Thunderer
I've got the spikes, but no rail, ties or tie plates yet. I've always fancied having a go at building US style track and I'll give it a go. Must find some trees to chop down for the ties......:).

I don't think I'll be making the cushion couplers for my caboose or hydra-cushion boxcar self-centering though as draft boxes extend well beyond the end of the cars. However, I did enjoy making the cut lever work. Having said that, the couplers are only temporarily installed as I'll remove them when I detail the cars at which point I'll chemically blacken them. This will be the opportunity to make my own draft boxes from square brass tube as I impressed myself when installing the P48 wheels in the trucks on my SSW hopper car. There is very little or no sideways movement of the axles in the truck and therefore car centres itself on the track.
 

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
Well if I can do spike'n'tie plate track (albeit the cheapo way)...
I've got the spikes, but no rail, ties or tie plates yet. ... Must find some trees to chop down for the ties.......
Where Jordan leads others can follow :thumbs: .

Ties? Coffee stirrers from motorway services, collected on the way to Telford and passed across at the lunchtime meet (or dropped on the table of the Chair of the Tech Comm?). Just ask.
 

Jordan

Mid-Western Thunderer
IMG_1879_zpsd5hgkgvd.jpg
They work okay for me!! Although here I used Peco Track Spikes (#IL113 I think) which rather look a bit too big, & almost like chaired track. Subsequently I've got a better look by using Peco SL-14 track pins - also easier to push into mdf & hardboard roadbed!! Rail is Code 100 in this picture.
 

Yorkshire Dave

Western Thunderer
What did you use to make the tie plates? I'm thinking of either ordering Grant line ones or making my own from either card or styrene.

Like you I'm using code 100 rail and track spikes. Did you use the SL-14 track pins on Schiller Point, if so do you have a close up pic of the track?
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
I think Jordan ended up using brown card which as y'all can see, looks rather nice, mind if your modelling something like this

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then there's little point in modeling tie plates :cool:

Sorry for the tangential pictorial diversion, normal service is resumed :thumbs:
 

Jordan

Mid-Western Thunderer
Mickoo is right - I used thin brown card, about postcard thickness. I do have some Grandt Line tie plates which are very nice and easy to use 'loose' as they have the raised ridge for the rail to butt to, but the amount of tie plates you get through makes it a rather expensive option. I glue the card plates in place with thin pva - about 10 at a time - using the rail as a rough guide to position, & spike it down once they're dry. It's not as if anyone is going to look closely at each & every tie plate now, is it?? :confused: ;)
I did use the SL-14 pins on Schiller Point (but no tie plates :oops: ) I will have to post a photo again when home. Rather wish I'd gone with them from the off on my loft layout above, but I saw the Peco spikes at my local model shop, & was actually trying to do something a bit more authentically by using them, but they're more suited to Gauge 1 & larger, I reckon. :(
 

Peter K

New Member
From my (limited) experience of making spiked track for Laramie the best spikes are Micro Engineering Small Spikes (available in the UK from EDM - http://www.ngtrains.com/Pages/Track2/track2.html#ME-Spikes @£8/1000) and the best tool for pushing them in is the spiking pliers from Fast Tracks - http://www.handlaidtrack.com/The-Last-Spike-Spiking-Pliers-Right-Hand-p/tl-0018.htm except I've just discovered they appear to be discontinued!! They are (were) expensive and I suspect are based on dental teeth extraction pliers (!!!) but are absolutely the biz when it comes to the fiddly spiking process. Bound to come up on ebay from time to time - worth hunting out!
I REALLY like the look of the Protocraft couplers - may have to get some for the short rake of coal hoppers Laramie will feature.
I did toy with the idea of p48 for Laramie but the thought of reprofiling all those Big Boy wheel sets rather put me off!!
 

Big Train James

Western Thunderer
MicroMark apparently has spiking pliers. I haven't used them (yet), but I have seen them referenced elsewhere by others that have hand laid track and they seem to be handy tools. All the usual caveats about relative value versus customs/shipping cost/exchange rate considerations apply.

Micro Mark Spiking Pliers

Jim
 
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