Len Cattley
Western Thunderer
Hi JB, what iron have got?
Scale7 JB Workbench.
- Thread starter Scale7JB
- Start date
warren haywood
Western Thunderer
I had this problem, turned the temperature down and all was fine
Scale7JB
Western Thunderer
Weller 40w Len..
I must admit warren, I had to replace the iron as the soldering bit got welded into the old one. This has a new housing design to it, and so an updated model, and wondered if the temp was higher.. It does feel hotter than the old version, but it could just be me...
JB.
I must admit warren, I had to replace the iron as the soldering bit got welded into the old one. This has a new housing design to it, and so an updated model, and wondered if the temp was higher.. It does feel hotter than the old version, but it could just be me...
JB.
warren haywood
Western Thunderer
Mines an antex temperature controlled 50w
At about 350c the tip stays nice and shiny, if I turn it up over 400c it gets a black crust on it
At about 350c the tip stays nice and shiny, if I turn it up over 400c it gets a black crust on it
Eastsidepilot
Western Thunderer
I have one of these irons Warren and also do as you say to keep it clean only turning it up, if needed, when in use.
JB, the uncontrolled 100 watt Weller I have never goes black however.
Col.
Len Cattley
Western Thunderer
It's funny how irons vary, I had a 100 watt and had to throw it away as it kept going rusty no matter what I did to it.
JimG
Western Thunderer
Col,
Is it uncontrolled? My 100W Weller uses their temperature controlled tip feature where the tip itself controls the heat of the iron. For my smaller 40W Weller, I can get a whole range of tips for different temperatures. I'm not sure if the same range of temperatures is available for the larger wattage models.
By the way, when I got the 100W Weller, the plating on the tip was so rough that it was difficult to get any decent heat transfer unless you loaded a lot of solder on the tip. So I filed it down to the core copper to get a better surface and I just have to dress it occasionally with a file, and dip it in some Carrs 188 to get a good tip again.
Jim.
Eastsidepilot
Western Thunderer
No, your right, it is tip controlled, came with three different tips, I believe they set the temp at 100,80 and 60.
Col.
Scale7JB
Western Thunderer
Serious golden oldie shelf queen this one, as it's the first brass kit I ever built around 9 years ago, and once it's cleaned looks okay.. Going to be converted to S7 tomorrow with the help of more of Jim McGeowns sprung conversion packs...
... and will then provide a brake for one end of the bitsa parcels train.
JB.
... and will then provide a brake for one end of the bitsa parcels train.
JB.
warren haywood
Western Thunderer
Very nice work there Jon
Scale7JB
Western Thunderer
And in true scattergun fashion, look what I just found under my workbench.. I had completely forgotten about it after I trashed the preformed roof that came with it.
Anybody have any ideas on how to create a decent bow ended roof? I have a few ideas which will require the use of thin strips of plasticard, much like the real thing..
JB.
Anybody have any ideas on how to create a decent bow ended roof? I have a few ideas which will require the use of thin strips of plasticard, much like the real thing..
JB.
adrian
Flying Squad
If I was going to scratch build a roof then I think I would build it up like an aircraft with stringers.
A bit like this http://www.jneaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/stringers-4edited.jpg
i.e. slot all the bulkheads and put in stringers 90 degrees to strips you have put in. These will then give support to the roof strips and stop them sagging between the bulkheads.
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Which bit of the previous roof was wrong, all of it or just the ends?
If it's just the ends then keep the middle and just scratch build new ends, and save yourself a hell of a lot of work, no point recreating the wheel
As the centre section is plastic then I'd just make up blocks from laminated Plasticard sheet, use the black, white, black, white layering technique so you can get the curves uniform.
MD
If it's just the ends then keep the middle and just scratch build new ends, and save yourself a hell of a lot of work, no point recreating the wheel
As the centre section is plastic then I'd just make up blocks from laminated Plasticard sheet, use the black, white, black, white layering technique so you can get the curves uniform.
MD
Dog Star
Western Thunderer
This sounds an interesting technique... please explain how using layers of different colours aids the production of uniform (consistent?) curves.
thank you, Graham
adrian
Flying Squad
I would think this is one of those things that you'd just have to try it a see what happens. I presume with the alternate layers when you start sanding the curves it becomes obvious if you have sanded one side more than the other. In plan view the different layers should show a symmetrical, perpendicular smile, or frown depending on which way you look at it.