W1 as rebuilt
- Thread starter Dikitriki
- Start date
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- 7mm djh finney7 kit design lner martin finney
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Thank you, you're too kind
Anyway, onward, I should really be on the valve gear but didn't get to a decent closure point on the brake gear so pushed on a bit more.
The lower runs are all complete, everything fits and needs a bit of a clean up and tweak to square things up a bit.
I've left the front drivers off to expose the front brake shaft, trunnions and slack adjusters. The trunnion bearing plates are just sacrificial etches to place the brake shaft in the right position and to check alignments of the pull rods and linkages. They will be replaced by more detailed castings in due course. There is another brake shaft at the rear end near the cruciform stay, again a sacrificial test etch will be dropped in so that the upper layer of pull rods can all be set up.
The brake shaft is 3.0mm tapered to 2.3mm at the outer edges to fit the trunnion bearings, slack adjusters are simply some micro bore tube with 14BA nuts fitted...badly in the case of the lower one, it'll do for the show but it'll come off afterward and a new one made.
The slack adjusters look a little over sized for the pull rods, in reality it's the pull rods that are too small a diameter at 0.8mm, simply put, for speed and time on the test build to check the linkages etc; I've opted for a rod that fits into the gap between the clevis forks, eg 0.8mm, easier to drill and stick the wire in. The full blown rods need to be 1.0mm but the hole has to remain at 0.8mm, so each end of the rod needs turning down to fit inside the holes.
The whole assembly is easier seen outside the engine, at the moment the slack adjusters are only fixed to the front pull rods, the rear end free to slide in and out of the tube. The exact length will only be determined when the brake cylinder is in place and brake shoes fitted, only then will all the linkages be set in stone and measurements taken for production.
The ends of the brake beams need beefing up with a bush on the inside, leaving just a small spigot to pass through the brake hangers.
Enjoy.
MD
warren haywood
Western Thunderer
Seems you are the only member of Finney 7 doing any modelling at the mo Mick. Well done keep it up
Dikitriki
Flying Squad
Seems you are the only member of Finney 7 doing any modelling at the mo Mick. Well done keep it up
Tax return time mate. I have to write off December and January. I wish I was modelling
Richard
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Thank you, but it takes more then modelling to support a businessSeems you are the only member of Finney 7 doing any modelling at the mo Mick. Well done keep it up
It's not that the other members are not, or don't want to, but they are all very busy doing essentials in the background that often gets forgotten or is unknown. Meanwhile I'm fortunate in that I get to bend the tin and point hot poky things at it, because I'm pretty much useless at the rest
MD
oldravendale
Western Thunderer
.....and wot about my bracket signal?
B
B
warren haywood
Western Thunderer
I was only been mischievous
I know your working hard Brian, see you Sunday with the spam can
I know your working hard Brian, see you Sunday with the spam can
Steph Dale
Western Thunderer
Seems you are the only member of Finney 7 doing any modelling at the mo Mick. Well done keep it up
True in my case; still up to my chuff in tooling and CAD. I'm really looking forward to 2018...
Steph
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Well who's a happy birthday boy
The rest of the W1 etches turned up, these are the second run so if they are all perfect then they are ready for production and that should cover all if not 99% of the kit.
Valve gear.
Bogie, Cartazzi, Delta truck and cab / casing periphials plus balance weights.
Finally all the etch bits required to make up the castings.
Lot of work ahead as most of it needs checking or building for hand over at Kettering.
MD
The rest of the W1 etches turned up, these are the second run so if they are all perfect then they are ready for production and that should cover all if not 99% of the kit.
Valve gear.
Bogie, Cartazzi, Delta truck and cab / casing periphials plus balance weights.
Finally all the etch bits required to make up the castings.
Lot of work ahead as most of it needs checking or building for hand over at Kettering.
MD
Steph Dale
Western Thunderer
Aaah, looks like my wash-thingies and mud-doozits are on there. I'll have to get my finger out...
Steph
Steph
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Yes Steph, they are
Hope to hand over two 27" brake cylinders and six engine springs for casting at Kettering, plus as many hangers as I can get done in the next week and a half, the rest to follow in the days after.
MD
adrian
Flying Squad
How do do find time to build anything?
You seem to be churning out etches faster than I can keep up with the posts!
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Because I'm a sad old man in his man cave lolHow do do find time to build anything?
Etches don't take long and the first two were already done and just needed tweaking for errors or design flaws, much as I try and work out how it all goes together in my head, sometimes it's easier to have a punt and see what comes back, then adjust the Mk II to make it work.
MD
mickoo
Western Thunderer
First item up for pattern masters is the 27" engine vacuum brake cylinder, unique to the W1 I think.
There have been several casualties along the way but this one made it to the end, not sure if it's suitable as a master (the master or pattern ceremonies will need to inspect it first) so we might have to revert to the 3D one in the wings. Having never made pattern masters I decided to use this as a training exercise or back up plan in case there were issues with the 3D one, not that there ever is I have to say.
Its a simple affair, made all the more difficult by my ineptitude, for example, the base was soldered to some thin wall tube of required length and diameter, because of the bevel required the base and lid material needs to be quite thick, 0.8mm I think in the end and thus requires some heat.
To speed things along I soldered four cylinders to one sheet and soldered, no problems, cut them out, inverted and soldered to a second sheet, impatient that the iron with big tip at 400°C wasn't doing the job fast enough I broke out the micro torch, all went well until the heat wicked up the thin wall cylinders and with the hot expanding gases trapped inside all the top is quick succession went pop and flipped up on one edge. I had to laugh. Second time around one end had a small hole drilled in to let the hot gasses escape!
Anyway, once the basic can was built the flange plates were cleaned up and fitted, the upper slightly larger and thicker than the lower, six small 0.60 mm pins went into the holes and trimmed to fit and finally the gland and fixing flange went on the bottom. Still to do are the trunnions which I'll add tomorrow and then crack on with one of the springs.
MD
There have been several casualties along the way but this one made it to the end, not sure if it's suitable as a master (the master or pattern ceremonies will need to inspect it first) so we might have to revert to the 3D one in the wings. Having never made pattern masters I decided to use this as a training exercise or back up plan in case there were issues with the 3D one, not that there ever is I have to say.
Its a simple affair, made all the more difficult by my ineptitude, for example, the base was soldered to some thin wall tube of required length and diameter, because of the bevel required the base and lid material needs to be quite thick, 0.8mm I think in the end and thus requires some heat.
To speed things along I soldered four cylinders to one sheet and soldered, no problems, cut them out, inverted and soldered to a second sheet, impatient that the iron with big tip at 400°C wasn't doing the job fast enough I broke out the micro torch, all went well until the heat wicked up the thin wall cylinders and with the hot expanding gases trapped inside all the top is quick succession went pop and flipped up on one edge. I had to laugh. Second time around one end had a small hole drilled in to let the hot gasses escape!
Anyway, once the basic can was built the flange plates were cleaned up and fitted, the upper slightly larger and thicker than the lower, six small 0.60 mm pins went into the holes and trimmed to fit and finally the gland and fixing flange went on the bottom. Still to do are the trunnions which I'll add tomorrow and then crack on with one of the springs.
MD
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Only if you heat it
It does look nice but still may not be fit for purpose so hold those Rhino files in the wings please, it does still need a good polish as yet to get rid of the last few file marks and sharpen some of the edges up.
It'd be nice if it is as it'll reduce a stage in the production process as far as I understand things.
MD
