Yorkshire Dave
Western Thunderer
Cycling Lion, weather so you can just see it, then Ferret and Dartboard with the Cycling Lion barely visible underneath. 
It must have occurred somewhere.
It must have occurred somewhere.
Mr Grumpy
Western Thunderer
While my 74xx sits drying in the paint shop, I thought I would turn my attention to a kit My wife bought for my birthday a few months back.
It's a lovely kit of the ex GWR Fruit D built in the late '50s by British Railways with electric lighting.
Construction should be very straightforward, but there are a lot of rivets to press out
It's a lovely kit of the ex GWR Fruit D built in the late '50s by British Railways with electric lighting.
Construction should be very straightforward, but there are a lot of rivets to press out
Mr Grumpy
Western Thunderer
I wasn't happy with the whitemetal parts supplied to make up the lighting switch and operating rod supports, so I had a rummage through my spare castings and pulled out this lot. (The parts i used for the rod clips are circled)
The square with screws in the corners is a Westdale speedo junction box, and the rest are bits and bobs from JLTRT.
Here's my effort. I have made the operating handles from 0.3mm wire but left off till near completion as Sod's law dictates I will knock them off
The square with screws in the corners is a Westdale speedo junction box, and the rest are bits and bobs from JLTRT.
Here's my effort. I have made the operating handles from 0.3mm wire but left off till near completion as Sod's law dictates I will knock them off
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Mr Grumpy
Western Thunderer
Oops....I started to run away with the build!
The sides of the wagon are made up from six doors and four panels.
The doors are made up with hinges, door clasps and locking rods. Each panel has the cross bracing and door catches fitted. Then via slot and tab I tack soldered the middle tabs only (circled) along the wagon, making sure everything was level and also running straight. Once satisfied, I sacrificed a couple of lengths of rail and soldered inside and this increased the rigidity. (As per Raymond Walley) Then I finally soldered the remaining tabs.
Oddly, I hadn't given any thought to how big this wagon is! If I still had my diesels, I would get a few to mix in to a nice parcel train but only need the one for my next layout.
The sides of the wagon are made up from six doors and four panels.
The doors are made up with hinges, door clasps and locking rods. Each panel has the cross bracing and door catches fitted. Then via slot and tab I tack soldered the middle tabs only (circled) along the wagon, making sure everything was level and also running straight. Once satisfied, I sacrificed a couple of lengths of rail and soldered inside and this increased the rigidity. (As per Raymond Walley) Then I finally soldered the remaining tabs.
Oddly, I hadn't given any thought to how big this wagon is! If I still had my diesels, I would get a few to mix in to a nice parcel train
but only need the one for my next layout.
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Mr Grumpy
Western Thunderer
This build has been a bit of a roller coaster. Nothing wrong with the kit, just me making a school boy error which lead to a bit of a strip and re-build.
I wasn't 100% happy with the sole bars, and always have difficulty folding them even after opening the etched fold lines with a triangular file.
I should have stopped and double checked, but continued and fitted them, followed by the roof, vents and chassis floor and trusses.
When I turned the wagon over, there was a distinct rock between the corners. With three of the W irons flat to the bench, the fourth was about 1.75mm off the surface.
I tried a little twist of the body, but made things worse, and broke the trusses.
The bin looked like the best solution, but my wife advised I revisit it the next day.
So off came the chassis and roof to allow access to the sole bar and that came off as well (A few other bits unintentionally flew off too!)
I gave the sole bar a decent thump with a piece of wood in the hold and fold and it looked distinctly better for it! Everything is now back in place, including the buffers I also removed and the roof vents that I hadn't!
I have ordered some 1.5 angle to replace the trusses which should be here tomorrow.
I wasn't 100% happy with the sole bars, and always have difficulty folding them even after opening the etched fold lines with a triangular file.
I should have stopped and double checked, but continued and fitted them, followed by the roof, vents and chassis floor and trusses.
When I turned the wagon over, there was a distinct rock between the corners. With three of the W irons flat to the bench, the fourth was about 1.75mm off the surface.
I tried a little twist of the body, but made things worse, and broke the trusses.
The bin looked like the best solution, but my wife advised I revisit it the next day.
So off came the chassis and roof to allow access to the sole bar and that came off as well (A few other bits unintentionally flew off too!)
I gave the sole bar a decent thump with a piece of wood in the hold and fold and it looked distinctly better for it! Everything is now back in place, including the buffers I also removed and the roof vents that I hadn't!
I have ordered some 1.5 angle to replace the trusses which should be here tomorrow.
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dibateg
Western Thunderer
I had a bit of a job folding the solebars too, even after scoring them multiple times. I also fitted torpedo vents as in some of the later builds. It's a nice kit - but not as easy as it looks. Replacing the trussing with angle is probably the best solution. They were difficult to fold too.. Watch the lower steps when you put them on, they are really fragile. I also trimmed the roof on mine as it seemed a bit over size. Looks like you are getting there now!
Regards
Tony
Regards
Tony
Mr Grumpy
Western Thunderer
Thanks Tony...that roof is staying put!
I think the fold line on the horizontal truss is incorrect as when folded, the flat of the angle runs the other way up to the two end trusses.
After building the WEP mink, I honestly thought this kit would build its self... but it's putting up a damn good fight
I'm beginning to wonder how I will get on with my MMP suburban brake 2nd
lovely kit...just worried about the builder!!
I think the fold line on the horizontal truss is incorrect as when folded, the flat of the angle runs the other way up to the two end trusses.
After building the WEP mink, I honestly thought this kit would build its self... but it's putting up a damn good fight
I'm beginning to wonder how I will get on with my MMP suburban brake 2nd
lovely kit...just worried about the builder!!Thanks Tony...that roof is staying put!
I think the fold line on the horizontal truss is incorrect as when folded, the flat of the angle runs the other way up to the two end trusses.
After building the WEP mink, I honestly thought this kit would build its self... but it's putting up a damn good fight
I'm beginning to wonder how I will get on with my MMP suburban brake 2nd
MMP stuff tends to fall together. The fit of the parts is excellent. There are lots of bits though, which is a good thing!
Never going to be a quick build.
Mr Grumpy
Western Thunderer
I have built a few of Dave's wagons and his coal handling hopper, all of which were lovely kits and superbly designed.MMP stuff tends to fall together. The fit of the parts is excellent. There are lots of bits though, which is a good thing!
Never going to be a quick build.
I was having a tentative look in to the box containing my coach a few minutes ago. I don't think I will be solidly at the workbench with it, but probably dip in and out during construction of my new layout
Mr Grumpy
Western Thunderer
I ordered replacement axleboxes/springs, as the ones sent were very poor castings. While I wait, I thought I may as well crack on with the steps, footboards and brake levers.
The brake leaver brackets are relatively easy to assemble. I took the precaution of running my fret saw blade along the ratchet fold line before bending and it worked a treat
To be honest, I found the whole experience of fitting the footboard, step and bracket frustrating and overly fiddly. I really struggled to get the iron in and resorted to using my 25w iron with a tiny bit which took forever to heat the parts. As warned, the steps are incredibly fragile, and this one snapped just because it wanted to
I decided to put a decent fillet of solder behind it and it is nice and solid. So, in the time I thought I would get all six boards, steps and brake levers fitted...I managed one! Please excuse the soldering!
The brake leaver brackets are relatively easy to assemble. I took the precaution of running my fret saw blade along the ratchet fold line before bending and it worked a treat
To be honest, I found the whole experience of fitting the footboard, step and bracket frustrating and overly fiddly. I really struggled to get the iron in and resorted to using my 25w iron with a tiny bit which took forever to heat the parts. As warned, the steps are incredibly fragile, and this one snapped just because it wanted to
I decided to put a decent fillet of solder behind it and it is nice and solid. So, in the time I thought I would get all six boards, steps and brake levers fitted...I managed one! Please excuse the soldering!
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Mr Grumpy
Western Thunderer
Apart from the couplings and vac/steam pipes my wagon is complete at last The couplings etc should arrive early next week.
The rest of the steps and footboards went on easily, so I got to the primer stage a little quicker than I anticipated!
I will be painting it in BR maroon with black ends under a layer of filth I need to crack on and order a few transfers for my brake van, mink and this one.
.....just noticed the twist on the axleboxe spring
The couplings etc should arrive early next week.The rest of the steps and footboards went on easily, so I got to the primer stage a little quicker than I anticipated!
I will be painting it in BR maroon with black ends under a layer of filth
I need to crack on and order a few transfers for my brake van, mink and this one......just noticed the twist on the axleboxe spring
Mr Grumpy
Western Thunderer
Since selling my modern(ish) era rolling stock and dismantling my layout, I decided I would have to restrain myself and purchase items that will all fit together correctly for my GWR branch terminus. Due to space constraints, Tetbury is a distant memory, although I will be using all the buildings on my layout.
So, my passenger stock consists of a B set, auto coach and rail bus. I felt a suburban brake 2nd would fit in perfectly as a one coach train or in a mixed goods.
I won't give a blow by blow account of my build, Simon Varnham has done a great job of that on his site. Also, others have posted their various builds.
So, I have made a start on the bogies. It's essential to read and digest the instructions as there are various differences to build in (or take out) depending on bogie type and if using cast or real springs on the bolsters.
I slid the axleboxes on earlier, and they fitted perfectly without any fettling required
The bits behind the frames are packing to hold the frames for the (not great) photo.
So, my passenger stock consists of a B set, auto coach and rail bus. I felt a suburban brake 2nd would fit in perfectly as a one coach train or in a mixed goods.
I won't give a blow by blow account of my build, Simon Varnham has done a great job of that on his site. Also, others have posted their various builds.
So, I have made a start on the bogies. It's essential to read and digest the instructions as there are various differences to build in (or take out) depending on bogie type and if using cast or real springs on the bolsters.
I slid the axleboxes on earlier, and they fitted perfectly without any fettling required
The bits behind the frames are packing to hold the frames for the (not great) photo.