Jon Nazareth's G3 workbench

Jon Nazareth

Jon Nazareth

Western Thunderer
Progress so far. I tried applying the little diamond transfers but for me they didn't work, I can't seem to get them to work/stick so, I've left them off. The other thing that I had problems with were the number plates. I sprayed them white then tried to flood the backs with diluted black. Each time that I did it, no matter how carefully, the paint crept up and over the letters or numbers. I re sprayed the white so many times that I gave up in the end. The plate on the left looks as if it is on a slant but it is level with the base of the sole bar but, I will check again. Just the bolsters and the chains and then they are complete except for the timber load, of course.

Jon

IMG_1663.JPG
 
Spitfire2865

Spitfire2865

Western Thunderer
How I managed to paint number plates is to paint black, then take a piece of wood and dip the end into white paint and dry"brush" the embossed parts.
 
oldravendale

oldravendale

Western Thunderer
Hi Jon.

I believe that Trevor's method has been used successfully by more than one person on WT. However, I started a short thread under the title "Numberplates" on 3rd July this year when I ran in to problems with the 7mm 9F I was building. This thread elicited a few responses, so you might like to look it up. In the end I opted for the "paint white, then black and rub the black away on the raised lettering on a piece of card" system. The first go was an abject failure, probably because I failed to let the white paint harden off properly. The second go, allowing the white to harden over a few days, then applying the black and rubbing it off when still tacky, but not wet, worked well, and I reckon could be made perfect with a little more refinement.

Brian
 
Jon Nazareth

Jon Nazareth

Western Thunderer
Brian
That sounds a good idea. Where is the thread that you speak of? I glued the plates on with bostik so, very carefully, they can be persuaded to come off.

Jon
 
oldravendale

oldravendale

Western Thunderer
Hi Jon.

I'm actually not the one to ask about negotiating any web sire, but if you look for my postings under oldravendale and subject "Numberplates" you should find it!

A technique similar to the one suggested by Trevor was also proposed but it didn't work so well for me, but it's the same as everything in this hobby - find a technique which suits you and stick to it!

Brian
 
oldravendale

oldravendale

Western Thunderer
Thanks Adam.

I see what you did there, but don't know how you did it! Nevertheless, many thanks!

And lovely wagons indeed.

B
 
AJC

AJC

Western Thunderer
oldravendale said:
Thanks Adam.

I see what you did there, but don't know how you did it! Nevertheless, many thanks!

And lovely wagons indeed.

B
Click to expand...

Fairly straightforward: I clicked on your username below your picture and followed the link to your profile page, clicked on 'postings' and, if you scroll to the bottom, you'll find in faint text, the words 'Find all threads by oldravendale'. Click on that and Bob's your proverbial.

Adam
 
Jon Nazareth

Jon Nazareth

Western Thunderer
Brian
So, paint the numberplate with gloss white first and allow to dry thoroughly. Next paint with black and wipe off on a piece of card while the paint is still wet, is that the way?

Jon
 
oldravendale

oldravendale

Western Thunderer
That's the system I used, Jon. However, I found that wiping off when the black paint is only just applied results in the black picking up micro fibres from the card, but this was improved by letting the black paint go almost dry.

I experimented to get it to work for me, and in fact had to strip and repaint three times before I achieved a satisfactory result. I was also careful about the application of both and applied in thin coats - I sloshed on the two coats the first time and that didn't work either!

B
 
Jon Nazareth

Jon Nazareth

Western Thunderer
IMG_1681.JPG I have put a coat of white gloss on the spare number plates and so, will be having a go at those in the next few days.

I've gone back to my early LBSCR brake van for the next pictures which show some of the brake gear going together. Needless to say, the brakes are of the old slide type. Jamie thankfully helped out with the size of bar required for the cross shaft as mine was very undersize, thanks, Jamie.

Jon

IMG_1681.JPG
 
Jon Nazareth

Jon Nazareth

Western Thunderer
Trevor
No, nothing is fixed yet and the shaft is simply a piece of brass tube that happened to fit. This was all simply put together at the end off the day to show some progress. I have found a piece of nickel that will be used as the correct one when the time comes.

Jon
 
Jon Nazareth

Jon Nazareth

Western Thunderer
IMG_1690.JPG

Even if I say so myself, the picture doesn't do the number plates justice. The one on the right is a bit fuzzy, but the rest are okay.
My system was to flatten off each one on a piece of fine emery. I thought that this would aid the wiping if the plates were dead flat. I then sprayed red oxide undercoat followed by hand painted white gloss enamel. I left the white for three days or more to really harden off and then painted on matt black enamel to each plate one at a time. As soon as the plate was covered in black, I wiped it off straight away onto the red mountboard that you see as a background. Hey presto.
Thanks to all of you who gave advice on this one. All that I need to do now is master those pesky transfers.

Jon
 
Jon Nazareth

Jon Nazareth

Western Thunderer
Forgot to say that I cut the points off some cockyail sticks and the glued them onto the plates with evil stick to make handling and cleaning easier.

Jon
 
Jon Nazareth

Jon Nazareth

Western Thunderer
IMG_1712.JPG IMG_1713.JPG

Here's one of the brake blocks for the sliding brake system that will be fitted to the brake van. The block is fixed to the, for want of a better word, carrier, with 12 BA machine screws. The push rod for this block will be attached to the 12BA threaded stud, the nut at the base will act as a spacer. I've silver soldered the stud in place so that I can eventually soft solder the carrier to the back of the slider (sitting on the rectangular bar). If the solder fixes the whole to the rectangular bar well, hey ho. However, if it doesn't, then I'll be able to make the sliding brake mechanism work , well, that is, if the other three behave themselves. The block is machined up from Box and I decided on the screws as it's a lot easier to fix this way than trying to glue it on. Also, I can remove the wooden block easily, once the length of the rods etc has been sorted out, when work is being carried out on the rest of the system, blacking etc., without any damage happening to the wood.

Jon

P.S. I hadn't cleaned up the carrier at the time of taking the pictures.


Jon
 
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