So back to the build.
Here's the motor mount in place in the frames . Again it's just held with the mini tabs.
Once that is soldered up it's time to add the frame overlays. They are very long half etched pieces and as a result were slightly bowed on the fret. Once I snipped them of the fret they became very banana like.
However after mounting onto the frames using the mini tabs, they were a perfect fit. As can be seen I managed to break two of the tabs at the front (don't ask) above where the pony will be. I also omitted to fold out the tabs above the axle slots, but had already twisted the others, so it was simpler to carry on. I clipped the loose part of the overlay tight to the frame with a small bulldog clip, before soldering all around the edge.
Once both overlays were on and cleaned up, the spring hangers are next. This is the down side of this kit as all the cast parts are nickel silver and require a lot of time to prepare. Not because they are poor but because there are so many of them. If you go with the removable option for the springs as I have done, then there's even more work drilling out and tapping.
Having followed the instructions and already added the ash pan, I put on the hangers adjacent to the ash pan first as there is restricted access for the soldering iron, and I wanted to get the difficult ones out of the way. As it turns out, I got them in without too much bother , but it would be easier to do with the ash pan not there. I think I'll replaced the 12 BA cheese head bolts with hex bolts from Eileens. It will then look like the lock nut on the spring adjuster.
The middle springs are done and some of the remaining parts are prepared. This shows the clearance issue with the rear middle spring hanger and front rear spring hanger, being close to the ash pan.
And a shot from a different angles. The peg sticking up in the bearing slot is to set the lower movement of the bearing and needs to be reduced. East to do when the spring can be taken off.
Cheers,
Peter