Nick Dunhill's workshop NGG16 Garratt

jc2001

Western Thunderer
Does anyone have a finished one if these and wouldn't mind posting a picture? I'd like to see how the valve gear, motion bracket and cylinders are arranged if made as per instructions. Thanks

A guy called Frank Sharp built one (I think think in 14mm gauge) about the time I completed by K1 (all over 10 years ago) and think there were some photos posted on a forum - possibly the 7mm NGA or o14 group - but I can't seem to find them. These kits can be built into a reasonable generic representation, but can very quickly turn into a major exercise for a highly detailed specific prototype. A google search may reveal some photos of the factory RTR and other versions.

John
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
You did tell me indeed. It's not a bad kit, just not a very detailed kit, we should have done some of our famous etchings for it. It just needs some elbow grease. To be fair the 'sleeve notes' say it's a generic kit to take in all the major detail variations.

Etchings, possibly, but not in this scale, it's too small for me and the 16mm is a bit too big, I'd be heading toward a 1:32 one. It is on my short to do list mind as I really like them....must get to Wales at some point!

Photos, I've got some that others have posted as builds but can't really show them here to protect their copyright so I'll PM them to you, didn't think to add them to the data DVD I made up for you :rolleyes:

MD
 

Nick Dunhill

Western Thunderer
I was looking at the motion bracket and stretcher and hoping that some of the etchings provided would be of some use. They're not! The motion bracket is very simplified and the stretcher is non existent. There's a whopping big stretcher that carries the boiler cradle pivot. That should be attached to the chassis too but is in a simplified form and is designed to be attached to the footplate. I think I'll make one and attach it to the chassis. The stretcher I made is attached to a frame extension and therefore a bit weak. I think the chassis needs a bit more bracing.
 
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jc2001

Western Thunderer
Its going to turn into a major scratchbuild job if I'm not careful.
Yep - I reckon my K1 ended up 80% scratch-built. I replaced most of the motion, , all of the riveted overlays, changed all the axle mountings, used new castings for cylinder covers, etc.

John
 

Nick Dunhill

Western Thunderer
...middle stretcher/motion bracket made from bits of scrap brass and NS.

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Carrier for pivot next......
 

Nick Dunhill

Western Thunderer
....I have finished the pivot stretcher. The pivot plate is a bit simplified as I haven't decided how the boiler cradle will sit on it. The work looks a bit scratchy for a couple of reasons.
1. I'm a poor photographer, and photography is not in my top 50 so the quality is unlikely to improve. Sorry.
2. The chassis are so small that it's very hard to solder up, let alone clean up afterwards. I ended up grinding scalpel blades to various shapes to be able to scrape away the excess solder in the little corners of all the stretchers. Because its so small you have to be quick and use a lot of tissue soaked in water as heat sinks, this way you don't unsolder previous work with heat transfer. Not lingering with the soldering iron causes your soldered joints to look a bit blobby and requires extra cleaning in those inaccessible corners. (Sorry, this all sounds a bit moany doesn't it! - long day)

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Cylinder blocks next. This is the bit where someone with more NG experience than me gets in touch and tells me the etched cylinder parts are wrong too..........
 
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Nick Dunhill

Western Thunderer
Are there any 4 mm modellers out there who know where I'll get some white metal or brass wagon or tender leaf springs for this build? I'm looking for 15 mm and 20 mm (between fixing points) items. Ta.
 

AJC

Western Thunderer

Nick Dunhill

Western Thunderer
.....and I have now completed the stretcher that holds the frames between the cylinders. The kit just has a slot-in cylinder block that doesn't look anything like the structure that should be there. The stretcher is basically a rectangular box with lots of lightening/access holes. It's pretty obvious from the piccies how I made it. It required a lot of measuring and marking out and a lot of hole cutting and careful filing.

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Either cylinders or wheels next, I haven't yet decided.........
 

Nick Dunhill

Western Thunderer
Help. I've just realised that I can't use the Faulhaber motors that the kit is designed to take. They're supposed to mount where the cylinder stretchers are situated! Still not a bad thing as I can now use an axle mounted gearbox and have full suspension.

So, firstly where can I buy suitable 4 mm eighth inch axle motors and gearboxes? Longish reach please. And secondly does anyone want to buy a pair of unused Faulhaber motors and gearboxes?

Thanks......
 

AJC

Western Thunderer
Help. I've just realised that I can't use the Faulhaber motors that the kit is designed to take. They're supposed to mount where the cylinder stretchers are situated! Still not a bad thing as I can now use an axle mounted gearbox and have full suspension.

So, firstly where can I buy suitable 4 mm eighth inch axle motors and gearboxes? Longish reach please. And secondly does anyone want to buy a pair of unused Faulhaber motors and gearboxes?

Thanks......

The obvious choice would be High Level Kits: Untitled Document

Motors are something of a moot point in 4mm at present owing to the demise of Mashima. That said, I think Chris Gibbon (Mr High Level) has a stock of most of the smaller sizes at present and there are alternatives (but that's a longer story - see this slightly tortuous thread in the other place: Replacing Mashima motors - Motors & Drive Systems).

Adam
 

Nick Dunhill

Western Thunderer
...I have a running chassis. The wheelsets were assembled using my pedestal drill as a press. When I've done a final test with the motors attached I'll solder/glue them up. They worked first time so I suppose I was lucky?

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More chassis construction to come when the motors arrive....
 
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Nick Dunhill

Western Thunderer
.....well it wasn't the drain cocks, next the cylinders were attached to the chassis. It resulted in a nice little compact chassis. Some OO jury axles were purchased and the axleboxes were aligned in the chassis. Strips of brass were soldered in place to locate the axleboxes and prevent them rotating.

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It runs beautifully. As you may have seen I have also added a bracket to each axlebox to accept a 14 BA screw to act as a height adjuster and hold a spring to push the hornblocks down into undulations in the track.

More soldering to follow..............
 
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