BR W1 Class 60700 - Nick Dunhill's Workbench

Nick Dunhill

Western Thunderer
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Here we go on another exciting adventure. I know this build has been covered recently on a thread by Richard Lambert but I had a minor hand in the development of this kit and now it's time to make a couple of them myself.

So far I have found the kit to be wonderful (I have no financial associations, only social, with the Finney7 co-op) and it's by far and away the best kit I have ever made (I've never built an MOK Kit!.) I have a penchant for hidden detail, but looking through the comprehensive instruction booklet it appears my trusty piercing saw will be largely redundant during this one.

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First you make a load of sub assemblies....

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and then put some bends and overlays in the frames

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If you carefully do as instructed it just falls together

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One is a commission but the other is for sale. One will represent the loco as running in the 1950s and the other is the choice of the new owner! If anyone is interested in owning the second loco, and has any specific building requirements, get in touch quickly......
 

Rob Pulham

Western Thunderer
Hi Nick,

I am glad to see that you plan to share the build on here:thumbs: Although as you say we have Mick's build which is excellent it will be good to see your take on it too.

I am sitting comfortably.
 

Nick Dunhill

Western Thunderer
....only a short post this week. Anyone hoping for an 'Ha-Hah!' moment will be disappointed. I just followed the excellent instructions and it just sort of evolves.

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I did add some castellated nuts to the coupling rods though,

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And some extra ribs to the front bogie stretcher buried way-down in the frames,

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Coming along very nicely. BKE (Best Kit Ever!) Get yourself one, or better still buy my second build, it's very reasonably priced!.......
 

P A D

Western Thunderer
Castellated nuts and extra ribs to the front bogie stretcher.

Looks like you've taken the first steps on the slippery slope to adding all the bells and whistles as usual. Although I believe F7 may actually include the whistles. ;)
 

Nick Dunhill

Western Thunderer
....doesn't look like I made a lot of progress this week, but the bogies, Cartazzi and bissel trucks took a couple of days to complete. Also I fitted up the axleboxes and got myself two rolling chassis. Had a problem with the Slater's wheel crank axle. I soldered it all up in my usual reliable way and the crankpin let go of one of the crank webs while I was cutting out the centre section of axle. Very annoying, I await more 120deg axles from Slater's....

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I tried to re-align and re-solder it but without much success.........
 
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Dave Holt

Western Thunderer
.... Had a problem with the Slater's wheel crank axle. I soldered it all up in my usual reliable way and the crankpin let go of one of the crank webs while I was cutting out the centre section of axle. Very annoying, I await more 120deg axles from Slater's....

Far better to find out now, rather than when the loco is in use.
Dave.
 

Nick Dunhill

Western Thunderer
.....it's only been a short working week, but I managed to get 2 sets of brake gear fitted. I also made all the slidebars, fitted up the crossheads and made the connecting rods. There were a lot of components to prepare, but everything fitted up perfectly once again, so another tick to the Finney7 co-op.

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As can be seen the big end on the con rod for the middle cylinder has to be made to split to fit up to the journal. Also some will like the 3D printed plastic brake blocks, that will avoid accidental shorts. Care is needed handling them as they're a bit brittle. Personally I think they're a solution to a problem that doesn't exist and there's plenty of other potential areas for a short! Valve gear next........
 

Nick Dunhill

Western Thunderer
....this week has been about valve gear, motors and lubricators. I started by assembling all the valve gear components and pinning them together, 2 days work for 2 pairs. As you can see I laid them all out on a sheet of paper, took a deep breath, and to my surprise managed to fit up each set in 30 mins with no binding or associated trauma. (Eat your hearts out modellers assembling ACE kits!!) The mechanical lubricators and their drive rods did push my soldering patience to it's limit (there is an option to make it static) but it does work flawlessly. The 2:1 levers all fitted up without any conniptions too. But the best bit was that I fitted up a motor and gearbox and the whole chassis/wheels/motion assembly went round a 6' rad curve first time. I retired to my front parlour at that point for sherry to contemplate why other manufacturer's kits require the use of an angle grinder to achieve such success so easily. (Just to reiterate I have no financial attachment to the Finney7 co-op, just the experience of a modeller!) To be serious for a moment the kit is very complex and has many parts, but they all do fit as they should. Here's a few pics:

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Inside con rod fits up nicely!

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With a careful bit of shimming at the crank pin the outside con rods pass gracefully through the ends of the lower slide bars with no binding.

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And it did only take 30 mins per side to fit up all the valve gear, honest!

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And next we fit up the bodies.........sneeky peak below!

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Nick Dunhill

Western Thunderer
......so this week I had meant to sort out fixing the body up to the chassis. I made the footplate and soldered all the overlays on.

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But the weather here in jolly old Sheffield was pretty wretched from tues onwards, and machining lumps of resin mouldings in a small room creates an almighty mess, so I decided to wait until the weather improves next week and do it outdoors. So on to the cab in the meantime. The main cab etch has lots of overlays. I also like the idea of attaching everything to the cab side sheet before folding it into a cab shape. Soldering and cleaning up is much easier this way. Similarly the cab floor is much easier to sort out when it's not in the cab. I did my usual planking job and when all folded up I was jolly happy with the results.

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A good trick I have discovered for forming a fall plate into a gentle curve involved sticking it with paper glue to a suitably sized rod. The rod/etch/conveyor belt chunk sandwich is placed in the jaws of a vise and squeezed. The rectangle of conveyor belt deforms as the rod presses into it as the vise is tightened. Hence the etch nearly assumes the diameter of the rod.

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To fill the time towards the end of friday afternoon I made a start on the backhead.

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More backhead and body action next week......
 
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