Trade SDMP/Finney7 - Driving a Geep?

Dan Randall

Dan Randall

Western Thunderer
Steph Dale said:
Dan,
Still generated on TurboCAD, but exported as .dxf rather than .tcw
It's not actually a change to my workflow; with any artwork it makes sense to export it in a generic format to ensure the recipient can open it.
Steph
Click to expand...

Thanks Steph - I'll look into doing that myself when I get a spare moment.


Regards

Dan
 
mickoo

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Numptie question, but who supplies the insulated horn blocks? I can see an application for them and the guides combined with CSB, wildly left field mind ;)
 
Steph Dale

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
Mick, Rob,
Yeah you've got it and yes the hornblocks/guides can be used in a variety of applications, not just conventional springing. I am currently undecided about whether to provide the screws/springs/bearings or just the etch, but at the very least I will be progressing the tooling for the etched hornguides as soon as I can.
Steph
 
mickoo

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Steph Dale said:
Mick, Rob,
Yeah you've got it and yes the hornblocks/guides can be used in a variety of applications, not just conventional springing. I am currently undecided about whether to provide the screws/springs/bearings or just the etch, but at the very least I will be progressing the tooling for the etched hornguides as soon as I can.
Steph
Click to expand...

Cheers chaps, didn'tknow....more like haven't paid attention at the back of the class... that Slaters did this type, I'd got the brass bearing, nylon guide type and was under impressed, but these have much greater application usage, anyone got some basic dimensions of these kiddies, basically looking to add a small hole (0.5mm ish dia) crosswise through either the top or bottom area to thread a CSB wire through. I need to find a method of current collection other than wipers on some upcoming (hopefully) exposed frame locos:thumbs:
 
flexible_coupling

flexible_coupling

Western Thunderer
mickoo said:
Cheers chaps, didn'tknow....more like haven't paid attention at the back of the class... that Slaters did this type, I'd got the brass bearing, nylon guide type and was under impressed, but these have much greater application usage, anyone got some basic dimensions of these kiddies, basically looking to add a small hole (0.5mm ish dia) crosswise through either the top or bottom area to thread a CSB wire through. I need to find a method of current collection other than wipers on some upcoming (hopefully) exposed frame locos:thumbs:
Click to expand...


I'm going to chime in with a question, as you've answered 50% of the puzzle in my mind about the dark arts of chassis engineering. That bearing appears to have a phosphor bronze insert in a nylon/insulated plastic-of-some-kind cube. Is it "good science" to use that phosphor bronze bearing ring as the conductor (both sides of a split axle)?? Would leave an electrically inert main chassis, and in an extrapolated way simulates the way some split-frame mass production locos (Bachmann etc) operate.
 
Steph Dale

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
flexible_coupling said:
I'm going to chime in with a question, as you've answered 50% of the puzzle in my mind about the dark arts of chassis engineering. That bearing appears to have a phosphor bronze insert in a nylon/insulated plastic-of-some-kind cube. Is it "good science" to use that phosphor bronze bearing ring as the conductor (both sides of a split axle)?? Would leave an electrically inert main chassis, and in an extrapolated way simulates the way some split-frame mass production locos (Bachmann etc) operate.
Click to expand...

That's the way I do it, yes. It has the advantage that the chassis details (cylinders, valvegear, brakes, etc) as well as the body of the model all remain electrically neutral. It also works as such when using 'American' pickup, with the loco and tender (or two bogies) picking up from each rail. In this latter example if saves making insulating draw-bars, bogie mountings, buffers and couplings.
Steph
 
mickoo

mickoo

Western Thunderer
flexible_coupling said:
I'm going to chime in with a question, as you've answered 50% of the puzzle in my mind about the dark arts of chassis engineering. That bearing appears to have a phosphor bronze insert in a nylon/insulated plastic-of-some-kind cube. Is it "good science" to use that phosphor bronze bearing ring as the conductor (both sides of a split axle)?? Would leave an electrically inert main chassis, and in an extrapolated way simulates the way some split-frame mass production locos (Bachmann etc) operate.
Click to expand...

Knowing Steph, that's probably the exact reason he has opted to use these axle boxes, Steph is a leading force in split axle bearing pick ups. Have a look at his euram website lots ot tit bits and handy hints on slpit axles and bearing pick ups:thumbs:

From previous discussions here, bearing pick ups seem to work fine, what does not are ball race bearings, standard bearings are ok. My main desire here is bearing pick ups with some form of insulated CSB suspension.
 
mickoo

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Steph Dale said:
That's the way I do it, yes. It has the advantage that the chassis details (cylinders, valvegear, brakes, etc) as well as the body of the model all remain electrically neutral. It also works as such when using 'American' pickup, with the loco and tender (or two bogies) picking up from each rail. In this latter example if saves making insulating draw-bars, bogie mountings, buffers and couplings.
Steph
Click to expand...

Beat me to it LOL, oddly your reply at 09:34 this morning didn't show up until I posted my previous:confused:

Regarding 'American' style pick ups, y'all also need to insulate the buffers or in the case of pure US locos, the couplers, if you run double head 'elephant' style then the tender of the lead loco will short with the engine of second loco.
 
Steph Dale

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
mickoo said:
Beat me to it LOL, oddly your reply at 09:34 this morning didn't show up until I posted my previous:confused:

Regarding 'American' style pick ups, y'all also need to insulate the buffers or in the case of pure US locos, the couplers, if you run double head 'elephant' style then the tender of the lead loco will short with the engine of second loco.
Click to expand...
Mick,
You don't need to insulate buffers, etc. if the frame is neutral (I.e. insulation is at the bearings)
Steph
 
mickoo

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Steph Dale said:
Mick,
You don't need to insulate buffers, etc. if the frame is neutral (I.e. insulation is at the bearings)
Steph
Click to expand...

No you don't but my understanding of 'American' style is that the chassis is one polarity and the tender is the other, requiring an insulated draw bar? Insulated axle boxes as you surmise is a much better way forward.
 
flexible_coupling

flexible_coupling

Western Thunderer
I like the idea of an electrically dead chassis.... makes life a lot simpler! The springy-beam suspension sounds excellent too - simple and elegant way of getting the job done. For me, it's been a battle 'imagining' how all of this stuff works, seems like I've got most of it figured out now!
 
adrian

adrian

Flying Squad
mickoo said:
Knowing Steph, that's probably the exact reason he has opted to use these axle boxes, Steph is a leading force in split axle bearing pick ups. Have a look at his euram website lots ot tit bits and handy hints on slpit axles and bearing pick ups:thumbs:

From previous discussions here, bearing pick ups seem to work fine, what does not are ball race bearings, standard bearings are ok. My main desire here is bearing pick ups with some form of insulated CSB suspension.
Click to expand...


I'm trying something along those lines with my 3F tender chassis - first effort sort of works but was a little fiddly to set up. I'll post some photo's as soon as I can along with the pro's and con's. I'm not totally happy with the arrangement at the moment so it will need some tweaking.

If anyone is visiting York exhibition I'll have a chassis on the Scale7 stand so you can see how it works at the moment.
 
ZiderHead

ZiderHead

Western Thunderer
Hi Steph

Apologies if I missed it earlier, or if I'm just being a bit dim, but what is the difference between the Branchlines/Markits/Romford based gearboxes? Is it the actual gears used? I'm thinking about building a JE Sentinel 0-6-0 and a 40:1 gearbox would be about perfect for it.

Thanks
 
Steph Dale

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
Jon,
Yep, in order to make it straightforward for those ordering and myself the gearboxes are described by the gears they work with.
And I think you're probably right about your choice, 40:1 and a Mashima 1833 would be a good choice. I'm not sure what Mike suggests for the kit currently though...
Steph
 
Steph Dale

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
The first production artwork has now gone off to the etchers along with a quick test for those gearboxes that haven't gone quite as intended; I will make sure they're right when they come out. Still on schedule to get the first few bits orderable at Clekkers, this should include the hornguides, and the Romford-based gearboxes at the very least. I hope to have the chance to complete the amendments to the others over the next week or so.

And now for something completely different:
Teaser.jpg

No prizes for guessing correctly, but I'll be interested to know if anyone recognises the distinctive panelling...
Hopefully you won't have to wait too long to find out why it's in this thread!

Steph
 
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