7mm Stanier 3P 2-6-2

LarryG

Western Thunderer
You would win cups with this model. Whether intentional or not, you have captured the appearance of pitted metal on the small footsteps ahead of the pistol valves. Such things were common on locomotives in BR days where rust had eaten into bare metal that had had the paintwork kicked off with men's boots.
 

P A D

Western Thunderer
Many thanks Larry.
I must have leaned too heavy on the mini drill cleaning up with the wire brush.
Cheers,
Peter
 

P A D

Western Thunderer
This afternoon I made and fitted the brake and steam heating pipes, as well as the web at the top of the motion brackets.
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The brake and steam pipes were made from 1.6mm rod with the hoses represented by 10BA threading. The rod was held in a pin vice and the thread added by simply running it through the die held in other hand. After that I I annealed the rod to aid the shaping. The details were added from half round wire, washers and tube. The stowage chains are 0.2mm wire.
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And the front ones.
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Just noticed the smoke box dart handle has taken a knock. :headbang:
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Cheers,
Pete
 

David B

Western Thunderer
Just as I think I’m building up the confidence to share my latest build on WT, I always see something that makes me realise I have so much more to learn. The 3P is inspirational. I’ve loved this build (and, as so often, Larry has hit the nail on the head in his comment above).

David
 

P A D

Western Thunderer
Just as I think I’m building up the confidence to share my latest build on WT, I always see something that makes me realise I have so much more to learn. The 3P is inspirational. I’ve loved this build (and, as so often, Larry has hit the nail on the head in his comment above).

David

Hi David,
Many thanks for the kind words. Please don't be put off showing your work. WT is not an elitist forum for experienced builders only, it for anybody who has built something, no matter what level they are at. There are many better loco builders than me on here but that does not put me off. We all have something to offer and we learn from each other and are willing to offer advice and help when asked. So don't be put off, take the plunge, show your work and become a Western Thunderer! :thumbs:

Cheers,
Peter
 

P A D

Western Thunderer
A bit of a digression this afternoon, by way of replacing the mud hole covers on my David Andrew's Stanier 4P. Tony Geary improved them on his build so I decided to do the same, albeit I've skinned the cage in a different way. Having used Malcolm Mitchell's pressed copper ones on the 3P and seeing how much better they look, I've fitted a set to the 4P.20200304_191708.jpg

I still want to copy Tony's roof fitting method but that will have to wait until I can get some 2 x 1mm strip.
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Back to the little brother, where I have made and fitted the rear and middle sandpipes.
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And t'other side.
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On the underside you can see where the rear brackets have been soldered to the ash pan and the middle ones to the inside of the frame. I think on the real think they may be fastened to the spring hangers, but my plastic spring thickeners preclude that. Cleaning up has still to be done. The middle sand and steam pipes have been attached via holes drill in the conveniently placed spacer.
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It's not clear in this view, but the bent smokebox door handle has been straightened. 20200304_191225.jpg

The front pair of sand pipes will be added tomorrow, but it's already looking more and more business like as the gaps between the wheels get filled in.
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Cheers,
Peter
 

P A D

Western Thunderer
I didn't do much today other than get the sand pipes finished off after making and fitting the front pair.
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The spacer for mounting the front truck is conveniently place to fix the sand pipes to and again the brackets were fixed to the inside of the frames.
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Cheers,
Peter
 

Dave Holt

Western Thunderer
Love your rendition of the sand pipes, Peter. They look absolutely spot on.
I always find it difficult to judge where to start the bends so that the pipes come to the wheels at the right slope. The ones on my current Black 5 are rather too steep compared with the prototype but I'll have to live with them.
Dave.
 

P A D

Western Thunderer
Many thanks Dave.
Sometimes you get lucky and in 7mm you have more room to work with these fiddly bits. The sand pipes are 0.8mm rod, the steam pipe 0.5mm and for strength I bind them at the joint with 0.2mm copper wire. These are the front ones which I cut a bit short and were only just long enough to fit. The nozzles could all be a bit closer to the wheels but I like to leave room to get the wheels out.
Cheer,
Peter
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P A D

Western Thunderer
The final external details bar the couplings were added today. Here's a view of the buffer beam supports which are soldered to the frames.
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Same story on the other side plus I've added the missing pipework and water trap.
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Here's a view of the trap with the loco on its side.
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And on the rails.
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Further forward I added the pipes under the tanks behind the lifting links, two on this side.
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And one on this. In both cases they one end is soldered under the tanks and the other to the under side of the running plate with a simple L shaped bracket made from waste fret.20200306_205146.jpg

The valve slides were over long and hung out the back so I trimmed them.
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I made the whistle yesterday but just realised I forgot to put it on.
Cheers,
Peter
 
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P A D

Western Thunderer
Many thanks Tim,
As to scale 7, I leave that ball in your court. It would be relatively simple to make wider versions of the frame spacers, but of course there are other factors regarding clearances to consider.

On the matter of clearances, I mentioned earlier that I had an issue with the "cork" in the big end of the connecting rod fouling the underside of the running plate. To remedy this I cut a slot in the running plate.
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I've since realised after looking at one of the GAs provided by Mike Edge, that on the prototype this was also a problem as there was an arch in the bottom of the tank/running plate to provide clearance. I don't know if Mike had the same problem with his build. If this was being produced as a kit it would be relatively simple I imagine to redraw the artwork to accommodate this. I have also had to cut a slot further forward in the running plate as the expansion link was also touching it.
Cheers,
Peter
 

P A D

Western Thunderer
I had the trucks off to add some lead strips under the bolster and added a little more detail while I was at it. They are only vague representations of the end fixings on the side control springs and the slider plates and have been added purely to fill in gaps. Still they add a bit more weight onto the wheels as well.
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To finish off the external details lubrication pipes have been added to the stuffing gland and valve slidebars. The former from copper wire and the latter from brass. I believe the slidebars were oiled from one of the pots on the tank fronts, so the pipe could not be routed forwards and an anchored out of sight somewhere on the cylinders. Copper sould have been too fragile so brass was used and is just a "U" shaped piece soldered into holes drilled in the slide bars. Once the body is on the "loose" ends are hidden behind the hanging plate.
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I noticed that the spacer for the front chassis fixing screw was slightly bent due to the gap between it and the underside of the running plate, so after straightening it I added a suitable washer to bridge the gap and stop if happening again when the screw if tightened. The slidebar oil pipes can also be seen in this view.
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The stuffing gland pipe was superglued into a hole drilled in the casting. When the glue had cured, the pipe was routed under the valve chest cover and soldered behind it out of sight. Shortening the valve crosshead to get rid of the overhang has made a big improvement.
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The couplings are by Dapol and although generic rather than prototypical, they don't need fettling or assembling and are easy and quick to fit. I bought a pack of six pair for about 20 quid from Hattons so they are also economical.
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Here's the whistle I made the other day but forgot to fit. Both this and the safety vales are just held with a drop of super glue so can be removed with a quick twist with a pair of pliers before painting. I like the Malcolm Mitchell mudhole covers and although others have soldered them on, I prefer to use the suggested method of filling them with a blob of epoxy. This gives time to adjust the position before it sets and also serves to strengthen the dome and prevent it being crushed by clumsy gits (me)! It's very easy to remove the excess resin when it's part cured as well.
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In case anyone spots it up, I have purposely left off the bracket from the drain pipes to the cylinder, as front wheel is perilously close to the pipes on the curves and adding the bracket would take up what clearance there is. I've also omitted the buffer beam brackets as they would be mostly hidden by the footstep. I must trim the buffer head bolt though.
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Although I've still to file the thread, I snipped off the excess bolt on the rear buffers. A self contained buffer would have been better but with the 12BA nut it won't look too bad after painting.
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Here's a view of the injectors showing how I anchored the pipes to the underside of the cab floor. The injectors are very simplistic but will pass muster tucked away behind the steps.
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The pipes under the tanks were soldered behind the hanging plate with the other ends anchored to simple bracket under the running plate. The slot to give clearance for the top of the expansion link can also be seen.
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That's all the external details done, with only the backhead etc., motor and pick ups to complete. It's been a very enjoyable and easy build despite having no instructions. The etchings are all very accurate and although there are no easy build features, the parts all fit very well. The frame spacers are very simple affairs with no pretense at being prototypical and Mike Edge admits that he does not add details to his designs that can only be seen by picking up the model, but I have no problem with that. I'm quite happy if a kit has all the bells and whistles between the frames, but if it doesn't that's also fine. I like the half etch slots inside the frames for locating the spacers as you don't have any unsightly slots on the outside to deal with. It's a great shame its not available as a kit and my thanks to Mike for getting in touch and offering me the etchings.
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My workbench is at my brother's house and before I left yesterday we had a "you show me yours and I'll show you mine" session. He's building this nice little Sentinel from NMRS Models. It's not the best of kits but it builds up nicely and is an interesting and unusual prototype.
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Is that a barbecue on the roof?
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The handrail pillars are not 100% correct but the closest he could find.
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Cheers,
Peter
 

AJC

Western Thunderer
My workbench is at my brother's house and before I left yesterday we had a "you show me yours and I'll show you mine" session. He's building this nice little Sentinel from NMRS Models. It's not the best of kits but it builds up nicely and is an interesting and unusual prototype.
View attachment 119268

Is that a barbecue on the roof?
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The handrail pillars are not 100% correct but the closest he could find.
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Cheers,
Peter

Nice - though a favourite prototype in my case. The grills are the big let down (and the reason why I haven’t thought about getting one), the thing on the roof is a spark arrestor. For my 4mm version, I used 2mm scale handrail pillars - the handrails on these are 1” rod - so I wonder whether Markits 4mm scale WD pillars might be a better bet? They’re small locos and consequently the fittings are smaller. Obviously, the market for scale bits is focused at bigger machines (the
same is true in 4mm) and those of us into the small fry have to think laterally!

Adam
 

P A D

Western Thunderer
Hi Adam,
Let's face it, it's an old kit and not up to today's standards. That said it will look the part when it's finished. The bunker is an add on and so there's joint on the model when there shouldn't be. The pillars are from Markits but I don't know if they are 4 or 7mm scale. I believe Walsworth Models are bringing one out in 7mm which may be a better kit.
Cheers,
Peter
 

P A D

Western Thunderer
So onto the backhead which will be a mix of JPL castings, Finney etched parts and scratch building. Here's the JPL Stanier backhead and fittings along with the Finney etches. The cast backhead is too large for the 3P so I knocked one up in brass using 3.5mm square brass section and 10 thou brass sheet. The basic outline was formed from the brass section, narrowed at the bottom to fit between the less than scale width frames which protrude into the cab. I then added a rough cut piece of sheet to the front, trimmed and filed before adding the wrapper. The front edge was then rounded with files and Emery paper. The brass water level gauges are from the spares box and may be MOK or perhaps Griffin.
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A comparison of the scratch and cast backheads.
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This shows the construction of the backhead from the rear. The square section was of annealed to facilitate shaping. Further pieces were added at the bottom to be drilled and tapped 10BA for fixing to the cab floor.
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And after drilling and tapping.
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A start has been made on adding the fittings. I will be replacing all the white metal cast piping with copper wire and paint the fittings brass or black as appropriate. The firehole door is not the best but will do, but I will add the handle from brass or NS strip. On the left is the reverser, which is a mix of the JPL cast part shown in the first picture and the etched reverser frame from the Edge etchings. The connection to the reversing shaft has been added frome brass strip.
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And a quick look with the parts inside the cab. The reverser will eventually be epoxied in place after painting and the backhead screwed to the cab floor.
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Cheers,
Peter
 

P A D

Western Thunderer
The backhead is now completed. It's an approximation and the castings are not the best, but in an enclosed cab, it will pass muster. I think the firehole doors are a bit low, but when it's painted and fixed inside the cab it won't be noticed.
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Screwed in the cab. The top edge doesn't sit tight against the cab front plate at the top, but cannot be seen when the roof's on.
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And from the other side. I wasn't happy with the plastic flooring inserts on the raised parts of the floor anc have replaced them with NS.
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That completes all the detailing and all that remains is the motor and pick ups before moving on to painting. I need to check if the MSC 2 stage gearbox and Canon motor in my Stanier 4P will fit and if so get one ordered. The intention was to move on to the Gladiator GCR Q9, but if the social distancing suggested by the government comes into effect, then I won't be able to go to my brother's to my workbench. Building at home is not an option for me. Here's a few more gratuitous images to finish this for now.
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Cheers,
Peter
 
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