Bagshot station build

Peter Insole

Western Thunderer
I could tell a story:

My Grandad Johnny Insole had spent his entire adult life smoking like a chimney and drinking like a fish.

From time to time I would ask him what he did during the war, but he wouldn't say. Every question would be answered by him tapping the side of his nose with a finger and saying; "Never you mind 'ol son, I signed the Official Secrets Act y'know..."

My father recalled him coming home on a couple of occasions with tins of Player's luxury filter cigarettes, at a time when obtaining any tobacco was difficult! As granddad was a chemical engineer, dad assumed that he'd been involved with the manufacture of the filters.

We have recently discovered that the old boy was working on the "Tube Alloys" Project, and that it was cellulose acetate (cigarette filter fibre) that was used to separate the critical uranium isotopes! It would seem that he was nipping to and fro twixt Nottingham and a top secret location in North Wales? Not only that, we have recently discovered evidence that postwar, he had his own office at the infamous Aldermaston site!!

Little wonder he would not admit to any of it?

Recently, during a visit to an outpatient clinic at hospital I was, quite rightly, lectured by a Doctor on the ultimate effects of smoking, including a rather graphic description of Pneumonia! I recounted that on the very last occasion that I saw my granddad, he was suffering from that illness and barely had the strength to stubbornly hold a Rothman's Superkings ciggie in one hand, and a triple measure, neat Scotch in the other.

As my examination had ended and I was about to leave the consulting room, the Doctor added his final repost;

"So you know what I'm talking about then".

"Yes", I sadly admitted, then turned back at the doorway and smiling, replied;

"Mind you, he was 101 years old!"

"Touche!"

We always reckoned that the reason he lived to such a ripe old age was that he must have been perfectly pickled, but now we suspect that he was thoroughly irradiated too!

Pete.
 

Peter Insole

Western Thunderer
It's been a while since I posted any progress, so here at last is a bit more.

At the S7, Sudbury, September get-together, "Stevesopwith" suggested that I should try using real glass for my Bagshot windows. I had long considered the material to be infinitely preferable to acrylic or styrene, but have always been put off by the thought of needing to use super thin stuff, and of course the no small matter of being brave enough to try cutting it!

Steve provided much encouragement by recommending that I use a tungsten tipped scriber on 1mm microscope slide glass.

I must admit that my first ever cut, a short one across the width of a slide, made a most satisfying "click", and snapped at a perfectly smooth, square angle. It was all downhill from there when I tried the long edge trims though!

Mmm, I need a bit more practice yet, but I'm determined never to use that bloomin'orrible, bitsy, scratchy, smeary, finger printy, clear plastic again?

At least all the muck visible in the following shots will be easily wiped off!

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Crash, tinkle!

Meanwhile, it is not just the glazing that has been worrying me, but the frames and casement construction too.

It was probably a good time to make a start. The Porter's room sash window is a tiddler, so would be ideal for proving the theory before tackling the big ones!

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I began by cutting and trimming an outer frame in .20'' styrene to snugly fit the window reveal.

Working from the inside of the outside, I then added the bottom sill from .80''. (photographed upside down for clarity!)

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The first two outer sash boxes in .60'', were fitted to the inside of the outside, also slightly set back to the the pencilled lines, seen in the above pic, and the parting bead strips cut from .10'' and sandwiched between them and the second, inner pair of "boxes".

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Finally, after building up the sill flush with the boxes, another .20'' inner frame was fitted.

This last inner frame is the same as the outer, except for the bottom rail. That was cut deeper to create a representation of the internal staff bead.

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The top rail will be dropped and tacked in place after the sashes are slid down into their "slots".

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I shall wait for the solvent to fume off for a bit (and to clear my head?) before painting, so there will be time for some more scribe and snap practice!

Pete.
 
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Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
For my first adventure with cutting microscope slides - the thin ones - I was advised that making the cut on a hard surface would help. Cutting on a cutting mat proved a little too flexible and caused quite a bit of wastage. Shifting to my paxolin soldering sheet has reduced my wastage rate considerably.

(Edited to correct autocorrect incorrect correction.)
 
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Peter Insole

Western Thunderer
Thanks ever so much for that advice Heather. A whole box of slides gives the impression that there is more than enough for failures, but before we know it, the cupboard will be bare?!

Incidentally, I have felt as if I must be doing something terribly wrong with my super modern laptop as well? I always keep a well thumbed, ancient, old fashioned paper dictionary within reach!

Pete.
 

Peter Insole

Western Thunderer
Sorry that the previous post was a bit brief, but I was called away from the laptop.

Here is the text to accompany the photo's!

The lower sash is a bit of a lightweight as it is glazed with the only suitable material that I could find to adequately represent obscure glass. I know I said "no more plastic glazing", but this stuff won't scratch, so it will be OK. While I have been careful to ensure that there is enough slack to allow for painting, it is quite easily wedged into the open position.

The upper one will be a different matter when installed with much heavier, real, clear glass. Cords over pulleys and suspended weights would look perfect, but entirely impractical. Some form of alternative resistance will need to be applied to hold the window up. One solution came to me while I was getting ready to go out this morning.

There is a small area at the centre of the sash boxes that will never be exposed by either sash when they are fully opened. I think holes drilled through the box into the slots in this section on both sides, and small phosphor bronze strip springs within would apply a gentle, and hopefully constant squeeze to the frames. A slight depression filed into the outer frame edge (invisible from any viewpoint) could make the spring "click" into a slightly firmer locked shut position?

Will see how, or if it works later next week!

Pete.

Sorry Tom, forgot to add; Thanks, I'm waiting to see if I will get away with it too!!!
 
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Peter Insole

Western Thunderer
A special thanks is due to Stevesopwith for providing me with the vital key to successful micro glass cutting!

Scribe LIGHTLY.

My scriber is quite heavy, so I let it do the job for me. Holding the tool with just enough pressure to guide it along a steel straight edge, the resulting scratch is barely visible. Aligning the mark accurately over a steel ruler was quite tricky, but the stuff snapped superbly; and every time. The only really difficult part was setting up for the cut: I had to remember the refraction effect of glass when laying it over graph paper, and that the scriber might draw slightly off the line. While each time I tried, I got perfect rectangles, but not necessarily quite the right size!

Someone once described cutting glass as "almost therapeutic". I can now happily concur with that.

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The main frames are deep enough to be made up from sheet and strip, but the bottom rail is a bit thin for this method. I found that 1mm glass fits snugly in a Plastruct channel section and is proportionately perfect for the job.

Added strength in fitting this last part was achieved with small offcuts of plain strip cemented into the frame guide extensions, then trimmed to shape when set:

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The completed frame, plus glass, is just a fraction over deep, so a shallow rebate was cut in the rear face to fit the scale sash box slots.

I will definitely have to make up the little spring grippers though. The sash is quite heavy for it's size!

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Pete.
 
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