Big Train James
Western Thunderer
Mick and Steph, thank you for the imput on the etching. I want to use whichever material allows me to make the "wire" members of the grills as fine as possible. They are drawn at a scale 1/4" and still look too heavy for my tastes. I'm thinking that stainless steel will be the choice here. I'm always amazed that anyone would switch from HO to O, even having done it myself, when I look at models offered by the HO manufacturers and they blow away O offerings in detail and reach despite being not quite half the size. The Athearn sw1500 is a great example of this.
Anyhoo, I used full thickness tabs as I thought I had read on the PPD site that they were recommended for thinner materials. Steph's post would seem to corroborate this, but as I'm seeing a difference of opinion I wouldn't mind clarification.
Regarding the eyelets for mounting, I had drawn in a half etch groove to facilitate the bend. If this is still not sufficient, I can remove them, extend the wires they are at the ends of, and then extend those wires through the shell. Which brings up the question of whether I need to do a half etch in each of the wires to get them all to bend. Or is it not necessary for material this thin or model elements this narrow. Another thing I need confirmation on with the eyelets is for the grill on the top of the hood. They are at the end of every wire on that top grill. Should I still execute them as a separate part?
I will plan on combining both the front and top grills on the same photo etch. I will need at least five sets but I'm willing to share more if my works satisfies your expectations. I also will try to fill in with any other parts I can think of to make the cost as efficient as possible. I'm sure we can work something out to maximize the value. Come to think of it I will need etching for the shutter vanes behind the grill. And then potentially I will need to work up a fan blade. I don't even know if that would be easy to achieve with an etch piece. Currently my plan is to use a 48" fan from Atlas that would normally populate either the radiator or dynamic brake fans on traditional locomotives. My only concern is that the individual fan blades seem to be a bit narrow to match the prototype. I will have to decide if I want to be that picky for something that will be behind at least two other layers visually.
Mick, I like the word flange in place of my "surround". I wasn't happy with the description last night but couldn't jostle my brain around enough to pop out the right term. I also considered etching this part, but for now I'm going to be content to file down the thickness of it and leave it in plastic. Unless I damage it, in which case I will use the etch.
I agree on the overhang lip. On the radiator flange -- I could use a heavy duty aggressive file and go at it with some zeal. The lip will require more care. But boy why is that plastic so thick? And you're right, I don't want to lose the flag clip detail. The roof on the cab makes sense to remove and replace as it's essentially blank. Not so at the nose. I'll most likely put the time in to file it down. It will bother me incessantly otherwise, keeping me up nights.
I have seen the square sand boxes on some locos, but I don't think I've ever seen the angled version on that BNSF engine. It doesn't surprise me at all that you've seen lots of variety on the UP locos. They've been inherited seemingly from half the railroads in the US as UP has assimilated them.
Not sure how much time I will find this weekend to continue work. Saturday is definitely busy already. And in general, my girl gets most of my time on the weekends. She doesn't begrudge me my train fixation at all. But I do try to be fair. But it's hard to stop when you've got some momentum going finally. I'll post what I can.
Jim
Anyhoo, I used full thickness tabs as I thought I had read on the PPD site that they were recommended for thinner materials. Steph's post would seem to corroborate this, but as I'm seeing a difference of opinion I wouldn't mind clarification.
Regarding the eyelets for mounting, I had drawn in a half etch groove to facilitate the bend. If this is still not sufficient, I can remove them, extend the wires they are at the ends of, and then extend those wires through the shell. Which brings up the question of whether I need to do a half etch in each of the wires to get them all to bend. Or is it not necessary for material this thin or model elements this narrow. Another thing I need confirmation on with the eyelets is for the grill on the top of the hood. They are at the end of every wire on that top grill. Should I still execute them as a separate part?
I will plan on combining both the front and top grills on the same photo etch. I will need at least five sets but I'm willing to share more if my works satisfies your expectations. I also will try to fill in with any other parts I can think of to make the cost as efficient as possible. I'm sure we can work something out to maximize the value. Come to think of it I will need etching for the shutter vanes behind the grill. And then potentially I will need to work up a fan blade. I don't even know if that would be easy to achieve with an etch piece. Currently my plan is to use a 48" fan from Atlas that would normally populate either the radiator or dynamic brake fans on traditional locomotives. My only concern is that the individual fan blades seem to be a bit narrow to match the prototype. I will have to decide if I want to be that picky for something that will be behind at least two other layers visually.
Mick, I like the word flange in place of my "surround". I wasn't happy with the description last night but couldn't jostle my brain around enough to pop out the right term. I also considered etching this part, but for now I'm going to be content to file down the thickness of it and leave it in plastic. Unless I damage it, in which case I will use the etch.
I agree on the overhang lip. On the radiator flange -- I could use a heavy duty aggressive file and go at it with some zeal. The lip will require more care. But boy why is that plastic so thick? And you're right, I don't want to lose the flag clip detail. The roof on the cab makes sense to remove and replace as it's essentially blank. Not so at the nose. I'll most likely put the time in to file it down. It will bother me incessantly otherwise, keeping me up nights.
I have seen the square sand boxes on some locos, but I don't think I've ever seen the angled version on that BNSF engine. It doesn't surprise me at all that you've seen lots of variety on the UP locos. They've been inherited seemingly from half the railroads in the US as UP has assimilated them.
Not sure how much time I will find this weekend to continue work. Saturday is definitely busy already. And in general, my girl gets most of my time on the weekends. She doesn't begrudge me my train fixation at all. But I do try to be fair. But it's hard to stop when you've got some momentum going finally. I'll post what I can.
Jim