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Discussion in 'Area 51' started by Nick Dunhill, 4 April 2019.
Hard rubber available from eBay, bought an 8” square of it for a few quid.
Superb. You're really cracking on considering you are building two at once.
The wood floor planks look very nice and having seen them in the flesh on your Whitby tank, they look even better. I must give it a go sometime, but is joinery allowed in Area 52?
What do you need to machine on the resin casting? I don't recall much fettling was needed on Mick's build and the resin casting on my A4 was spot on also.
Warren's suggestion of hard rubber sheet sounds interesting as well so I'll be searching ebay shortly.
The Finney7 W1 body has a bead of resin along the bottom and rear of the body. It's designed to protect the pointy edges from a bash in transit. You have to sand it off and I'm going to use a sanding disc in my minidrill. When I've worked resin indoors in the past it has created an almighty mess, so I think this'll be a job for Mon or Tues when it's sunny and I can do it outdoors. Best the dust is not in my lungs I think.
.....this week has been about the cab. I have done most of the detailing and building.
The chevrons are printed from a file on Google images, and the sight glass safety glass is 2 x 2 mm acetate rod. I then just followed the kit instructions and photos.
There's a few more odds and sods to go on the backhead but I'm waiting for castings from LGM.
I made the cab roofs too. They're a bit tricky to shape but I used my trusty slip rollers with some very thick card to help support the voids.
A bit of careful soldering and...
I also made a start on the ashpans, they're the last large structure apart from the body, must get round to that. Daunted by the thought of having to manipulate a resin body, it's kind of death-or-glory isn't it?
Bodies next, unless I can find something else so I can put them off for a bit longer, I prefer things that can be soldered...........
....well fortune favours the brave and I now have 2 x W1 looking models. The bodies weren't much trouble at all in the end, after all the avoidance measures. Do what it says in the instructions and all will be well. Bit of sanding here and here and some glue. Do the sanding bit by bit, test fit and a bit more material removal etc etc. I used some home made sanding discs in my mini drill, it's very messy so do it outside!
I used epoxy, sparingly. It's a difficult job cleaning off any that splurges out......I had to do it on one!
Then you just have to read the instructions and fit all the body parts. The handrail and ejector pipe make the model come to life. I added paper spacers under the inspection hatches, to bring them out flush with the surface of the body. Also the valences are quite tricky. They're very thin and have to be soldered to something thicker with a very thin overlay. It's a distortion nightmare waiting to happen, so be very quick with your soldering iron!
Just the chassis fitting out to go. Two pages of instructions left, so should be done by the next time you read this!.......
You have really cracked on with this pair of W1s. Love the wood planking in the cab. I must give that a go sometime. The gauge glasses look super as well and I've got some square perspex from Rob Pullham to try that as well. For the chevrons I'll rule some fine diagonal lines onto paper with one of my many ruling pens and see if that works.
Question though. Why have you needed to use elastic bands during the gluing of the resin casting? Is the running plate etc not screwed to the casting as it is with the A4, to keep it aligned until the epoxy cores?
I didn't want to risk the body bulging by using self tappers, they're quite close to the outside face of the moulding. And also I wanted the footplate to be tight up against the body moulding all the way along and wasn't sure the self tappers would facilitate that. The real reason was that I didn't want to drill more holes and fill my workshop with more resin dust and have to waste another day waiting for the moulding to dry after it was washed (again!)
Oh. I made a splitter (?) for the smoke unit to be fitted to one of them. I'd be happy to hear the thoughts of anyone who had any experience of an ESU smoke unit, will it send smoke up both chimney flues adequately?
Will you be putting any water in the boiler before its sent to the customer?
Thanks for the answer on the use of the rubber bands, but here's another question. Is the bent handle on the reverse intentional? I've seen it like this on one or two prototype photos and I just wondered if it was done by the engine men with a big hammer to reduce the radius of turn, so that they could change the setting quicker. Is this so or will you be straightening it in due course?
I can't find a specific picture of the cab of 60700 but many other similar LNER locos have the bent reverser handles.
flying scotsman cab - Google Search
green arrow cab - Google Search
sir nigel gresley cab - Google Search
Not sure whether it's a homemade mod, some appear straight though!
If they were just bent in use then those LNER drivers must have had forearms like Popeye!
......done! Fitted up the injectors, sanding gear and cylinder drain cocks. Just the paint etc.....
I'll post a few more pics when painted........
Look forward to seeing it at Donny.
Finney 7 have clearly taken Martin Finney's design concept to the next level. That said, it still takes an awful lot of skill to build the kit to this level. Superb!
.....here's a quick video of the splitter I made on test, thanks to Rob (who is a DCC magician!) at Modelyard in Leeds.
......I have added a few extra fittings to the cab and backhead not in the kit
I also added the Bowden cable that operates the whistle. It is attached behind the ejector pipe and pulls a lever on the whistle valve (thanks PAD!)
Also in progress are a couple of modifications to the non-corridor tenders I built for the loco.
Next I complete the minor mods to the tender......
It's a shame you have to butcher the tenders but needs must.
I see you've gone for the well maintained Bowden cable with no sagging below the ejector pipe near the cab and no buckling of the feed pipe from the whistle valve to the whistle, which is seen on the W1 late in its life in many illustrations.
Apologies if I've missed the rationale, but why the butchering of the tender(s)? Is it simply to fit pick ups?
Because they are A3 low front tenders and Nick needs an A4 high front tender.
There were also issues with the cant rail bend, it's too severe on the DA kit, so even with a high front the cant rail bend would of been wrong; in fact it's wrong for any tender and is too high up the side as well.