oldravendale
Western Thunderer
Could be the first lady engine driver?
Building an Ace Kits "K"
- Thread starter oldravendale
- Start date
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- Tags
- 7mm kit building lb&scr locos
Ressaldar
Western Thunderer
oldravendale
Western Thunderer
May there be rejoicing and amazement in equal measure. (Sounds of fanfares stage left and right, and exploding fireworks).
After nearly four years work:
More photos follow this brief introduction.
Firstly you'll note that I'm not a member of the "magic construction without solder" club. However, where solder has been used as a filler (where hasn't it?) it's been scraped and filed back to a condition where, with minimal cleaning up the loco is ready for painting. There is also one quite basic inaccuracy which is that the boiler/firebox sits a little too low, maybe about 0.5mm, even though the firebox is fitted in the slot provided. I should have learned by the time it came to fitting the boiler not to trust the locating slots....... If I'd realised earlier and chosen to do anything about it I'd have needed to make a new firebox so instead reduced the height of the smokebox saddle to eliminate the slope on the boiler which would otherwise have been present. If I've missed or mislocated anything else please advise and I'll decide whether I'll do anything about it!
Following my last set of photos I tried to do as the instructions suggested, ie "To complete the model fit the castings and other fittings in their appropriate locations on the drawings provided". So, pretty much "You're on your own", although in fairness to give a blow by blow account of what to add where and at what time in the loco's history would be difficult. I have a number of etchings left over which I'll photograph to see if anyone can give guidance.
Sand pipes, couplings and wheel balance weights have yet to be fitted. (In fact balance weights for front or rear drivers have to be made). Boiler bands are car detailing tape slit to width.
The Westinghouse air pump is a bit askew as it's not fixed in place yet - I'm still considering whether to fit the boiler after painting as there's so much extraneous pipework so, in fact, the only pipework fixed is the lubrication pipe running from the cab to the saddle on the right hand side and the steam pipe from cab to smokebox on the right hand side. The dome is not the one provided, but one I found on the NMRS Models stand at Guildex. It was rather too high, but has been filed back to nearer the correct height. Safety valves are from Laurie Griffen, mounted on a Plasticard base. In fact most of the lost wax fittings are LG. (Just a small side comment here, but those lamp irons on the smokebox door are really far too chunky. I think they are probably a better option, though, than etched ones). There was, of course, a significant amount of scratch building involved.
Thanks to Simon Thompson for the slide bars, motion bracket and cylinder parts which he drew from works drawings and photos and had etched for me. Also to Steph for the chimney - I believe it might be from a Brighton Atlantic, but it looks better than any of the alternatives and to Roger S for his support during the dark days of the build and the many photos of the prototype and his own version which he so kindly provided.
At the end of the day this is not the inexpensive kit it purports to be. I've just gone through the packs of additions which I retain at the moment, and many have been disposed of already, and the cost of these for the loco alone is about £150, not including wheels and motor/gearbox which any build requires. I don't have the packs for any extras on the tender so can't give any sort of guidance for that. Additionally I've used considerable quantities of the castings and sundries purchased and collected over many years because "they may come in useful one day".
Just the backhead to beat in to submission now.
Brian
After nearly four years work:
More photos follow this brief introduction.
Firstly you'll note that I'm not a member of the "magic construction without solder" club. However, where solder has been used as a filler (where hasn't it?) it's been scraped and filed back to a condition where, with minimal cleaning up the loco is ready for painting. There is also one quite basic inaccuracy which is that the boiler/firebox sits a little too low, maybe about 0.5mm, even though the firebox is fitted in the slot provided. I should have learned by the time it came to fitting the boiler not to trust the locating slots....... If I'd realised earlier and chosen to do anything about it I'd have needed to make a new firebox so instead reduced the height of the smokebox saddle to eliminate the slope on the boiler which would otherwise have been present. If I've missed or mislocated anything else please advise and I'll decide whether I'll do anything about it!
Following my last set of photos I tried to do as the instructions suggested, ie "To complete the model fit the castings and other fittings in their appropriate locations on the drawings provided". So, pretty much "You're on your own", although in fairness to give a blow by blow account of what to add where and at what time in the loco's history would be difficult. I have a number of etchings left over which I'll photograph to see if anyone can give guidance.
Sand pipes, couplings and wheel balance weights have yet to be fitted. (In fact balance weights for front or rear drivers have to be made). Boiler bands are car detailing tape slit to width.
The Westinghouse air pump is a bit askew as it's not fixed in place yet - I'm still considering whether to fit the boiler after painting as there's so much extraneous pipework so, in fact, the only pipework fixed is the lubrication pipe running from the cab to the saddle on the right hand side and the steam pipe from cab to smokebox on the right hand side. The dome is not the one provided, but one I found on the NMRS Models stand at Guildex. It was rather too high, but has been filed back to nearer the correct height. Safety valves are from Laurie Griffen, mounted on a Plasticard base. In fact most of the lost wax fittings are LG. (Just a small side comment here, but those lamp irons on the smokebox door are really far too chunky. I think they are probably a better option, though, than etched ones). There was, of course, a significant amount of scratch building involved.
Thanks to Simon Thompson for the slide bars, motion bracket and cylinder parts which he drew from works drawings and photos and had etched for me. Also to Steph for the chimney - I believe it might be from a Brighton Atlantic, but it looks better than any of the alternatives and to Roger S for his support during the dark days of the build and the many photos of the prototype and his own version which he so kindly provided.
At the end of the day this is not the inexpensive kit it purports to be. I've just gone through the packs of additions which I retain at the moment, and many have been disposed of already, and the cost of these for the loco alone is about £150, not including wheels and motor/gearbox which any build requires. I don't have the packs for any extras on the tender so can't give any sort of guidance for that. Additionally I've used considerable quantities of the castings and sundries purchased and collected over many years because "they may come in useful one day".
Just the backhead to beat in to submission now.
Brian
Steph Dale
Western Thunderer
Well done Dad! It looks fantastic, well worth all the hard work I think. 
Mind you, the hard work wasn't mine to do...
Steph
Mind you, the hard work wasn't mine to do...Steph
AJC
Western Thunderer
Well done Brian
Richard
Or, in 4mm land, any kit at all (all the once available kits are not, at present - K's/Nu-Cast and Mallard/Blacksmith). Great work on that Brian, the long hard road is coming to an end and the result looks more than worth it.
Adam
Yorkshire Dave
Western Thunderer
Excellent work Brian 
. The tenacity has paid off.
If you're really concerned about this I would take the 0.5+ mm from the bottom of the cab.
. The tenacity has paid off.If you're really concerned about this I would take the 0.5+ mm from the bottom of the cab.
Lancastrian
Western Thunderer
Brian,
Excellent work. I know only too well how taxing the efforts from Ace Kits can be, so a well deserved pat on the back to you for continuing through the long struggle to elevate a mediocre kit to this level of detail
Ian
Excellent work. I know only too well how taxing the efforts from Ace Kits can be, so a well deserved pat on the back to you for continuing through the long struggle to elevate a mediocre kit to this level of detail
Ian
Martin Shaw
Western Thunderer
Brian
I echo all of the sentiments above, quite remarkable achievement given the starting point, well done.
Kind Regards
Martin
I echo all of the sentiments above, quite remarkable achievement given the starting point, well done.
Kind Regards
Martin
oldravendale
Western Thunderer
Wow! Thanks for all the "Likes" chaps and chapess. Your support and gee ups during the build have made all the difference.
Adam - a shame indeed that this loco is not available at all in 4mm, and only this one version available in 7mm. It's a shame, as hidden in this kit is a really good model trying to get out, but to have attempted it as a beginner would have been disastrous.
Dave - I'd not thought previously about lowering the cab a little. Frankly I can't face removing it and doing the deed, together with filling all the holes for pipes and handrails and then drilling new ones. I will, however, check the windows against the drawings. It may be possible to remove a file away a very small amount from the bottom of the aperture which may just alleviate the situation.
Roger - I wish! If I had the competency to create the art work for the etches and then the modelling for the cast patterns it'd be in the Finney7 range for sure. However, regrettably I haven't and it isn't.
Mike - I've only one thing to say to you.
! Which, roughly translated means fat chance.
This afternoon it'll be production of balance weights and starting to fit out the cab. I'll have a look at those windows too. I'll save fitting the sand pipes until last because of the risk of damage. I'll not fit the Archer rivets around the smokebox until after priming for the same reason.
Next is from the cor blimey to the sublime. An original Finney kit of the A3. Tender is already built by Mickoo as a demo for Finney7. Loco boiler is rolled, and smokebox and tapered boiler section complete. After the "K" I should have it finished by the end of the week.
Brian
Adam - a shame indeed that this loco is not available at all in 4mm, and only this one version available in 7mm. It's a shame, as hidden in this kit is a really good model trying to get out, but to have attempted it as a beginner would have been disastrous.
Dave - I'd not thought previously about lowering the cab a little. Frankly I can't face removing it and doing the deed, together with filling all the holes for pipes and handrails and then drilling new ones. I will, however, check the windows against the drawings. It may be possible to remove a file away a very small amount from the bottom of the aperture which may just alleviate the situation.
Roger - I wish! If I had the competency to create the art work for the etches and then the modelling for the cast patterns it'd be in the Finney7 range for sure. However, regrettably I haven't and it isn't.
Mike - I've only one thing to say to you.
! Which, roughly translated means fat chance.This afternoon it'll be production of balance weights and starting to fit out the cab. I'll have a look at those windows too. I'll save fitting the sand pipes until last because of the risk of damage. I'll not fit the Archer rivets around the smokebox until after priming for the same reason.
Next is from the cor blimey to the sublime. An original Finney kit of the A3. Tender is already built by Mickoo as a demo for Finney7. Loco boiler is rolled, and smokebox and tapered boiler section complete. After the "K" I should have it finished by the end of the week.
Brian
Ressaldar
Western Thunderer
Mike - I've only one thing to say to you.
Brian
Hi Brian,
I think that I got away very lightly with only one 'raspberry'
I 'managed' Bessborough over a very long period and went grey overnight!
only regret is that I no longer have it
regards
Mike
Steph Dale
Western Thunderer
Mike,
I think you did well to get that together as the J2. I have a couple of these kits to do each of the J1 and J2 and worked out that to build the valve gear for the J2 I'd need bits from both kits. So I'm guessing your valvegear had quite a few new bits made for it.
One thing I bear in mind with these kits now is that thanks to Marsh starting out at Doncaster, there are a good few parts in the Finney7 LNER range that can be used to titivate...
Steph
I think you did well to get that together as the J2. I have a couple of these kits to do each of the J1 and J2 and worked out that to build the valve gear for the J2 I'd need bits from both kits. So I'm guessing your valvegear had quite a few new bits made for it.
One thing I bear in mind with these kits now is that thanks to Marsh starting out at Doncaster, there are a good few parts in the Finney7 LNER range that can be used to titivate...
Steph
oldravendale
Western Thunderer
Mike.
That's a stunning result. It proves, as we know, that good models can be made from the kits, but it's a question of how much work and expense is required to get there. Let's face it, William produces kits for a lot of prototypes not available from anyone else and for an incompetent bodger like me a poor kit is better than no kit at all.
I'm sure my hair will grow back.
B
That's a stunning result. It proves, as we know, that good models can be made from the kits, but it's a question of how much work and expense is required to get there. Let's face it, William produces kits for a lot of prototypes not available from anyone else and for an incompetent bodger like me a poor kit is better than no kit at all.
I'm sure my hair will grow back.
B
Ian@StEnochs
Western Thunderer
Brian,
Congratulations on an excellent model of rather an attractive prototype. I have watched this thread right from the beginning and applaud your tenacity at sticking with it. I think you can honestly say to anyone who asks that you built the model with only a little help from Ace!
I struggled with 4mm Jidenco kits a long time ago, because they were the only producers of the particular locos I wanted, but in doing so I, as I am sure you have too, picked up a lot of the skills required for scratch building. Now you have the skills you can ignore iffy kits, even if they do a loco you fancy, and build it all yourself.
Ian.
Congratulations on an excellent model of rather an attractive prototype. I have watched this thread right from the beginning and applaud your tenacity at sticking with it. I think you can honestly say to anyone who asks that you built the model with only a little help from Ace!
I struggled with 4mm Jidenco kits a long time ago, because they were the only producers of the particular locos I wanted, but in doing so I, as I am sure you have too, picked up a lot of the skills required for scratch building. Now you have the skills you can ignore iffy kits, even if they do a loco you fancy, and build it all yourself.
Ian.
oldravendale
Western Thunderer
Thank you, Ian. I said at some time near the beginning of the build that I regarded this as the opportunity for a learning exercise, and it'a certainly been that. Whether I'm quite ready to make the big step to a scratch build yet I somewhat doubt!
B
B
Ian@StEnochs
Western Thunderer
Scratchbuilding is just making the parts to the sizes on the drawing and that is much easier than trying to correct someone else’s errors! You have the skills so just take the plunge.
Ian.