Building the MOK Class Q1, or From the Sublime to the Cor Blimey

Discussion in 'Area 51' started by oldravendale, 14 January 2019.

  1. oldravendale

    oldravendale Western Thunderer

    Actually, it should be, after the "K", from the Cor Blimey to the Sublime.

    Everything fits!!! No surprise there, and all looking good.

    As is my normal practice I've started with the tender, and the first part of the instructions refer to the action to turn the tender sides over as the most difficult part of the assembly. I started with these agricultural tools.

    IMG_20190114_150605396.jpg

    I made a Plasticard pattern of the shape I needed and shaped a piece of softwood to match the top profile. I sandwiched that in the vice with another piece of softwood and then welted it with a heavy hammer via another piece of wood.

    IMG_20190114_142047917.jpg

    The body of the tender side was then given the required gentle curve via the rolling bars. Interestingly I suffered the same issue reprted by Mickoo and others - the ends of the tender sides took the curve, but the centre curved somewhat less. However, the formers will allow the tender to take the correct profile. In fact, shown above is one of the formers. More to make.

    I suspect this will be a simple reporting thread. So far, and not surprisingly, NOTHING I CAN COMPLAIN ABOUT!:)

    Brian
     
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  2. Peter Cross

    Peter Cross Western Thunderer

    May I ask who's bars you use. I have GW 10" ones. I swapped them for my 6" ones when I came to 7mm. I wish I hadn't. The 10s flex in the middle. I have to move things up and down, twist around a complete PITA.
     
  3. oldravendale

    oldravendale Western Thunderer

    Hi Peter.

    Nail on the head! Yes, it's the GW 10" variety. To date and with brass I've found them fine, but this is the first nickel silver kit I've built using them. There's little doubt in my mind that the problem here (if problem it is) is due to the bars flexing.

    In fact, now that the basic shape is good I'm considering finishing the middle part of the tender sides with a piece of rod/broomstick on a mat. However, the presence of good formers means that may not be necessary.

    Brian
     
  4. Ressaldar

    Ressaldar Western Thunderer

    Hi Brian,

    Compared with the K build, this will be a walk in the park for you. I have built two MoK Q1s and thoroughly enjoyed both.

    I’m looking forward to seeing the (rapid - even allowing for domestic intervention ) progress photos.

    Kind regards

    Mike
     
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  5. mickoo

    mickoo Western Thunderer

    The trick is to over roll, so the middle is correct and then take the excess roll on the ends out a little by just gently pushing down on them with the inside facing down on the table. Or on their back inside up and push down the upper and lower edges.
     
  6. Pencarrow

    Pencarrow Western Thunderer

    Is it finished yet?
     
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  7. Cliff Williams

    Cliff Williams Western Thunderer

    I must get back on to my Q1 tender, get this 47 glued up first.

    I agree Mickoo the over roll technique works well, heartily recommend it.
     
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  8. 7mmMick

    7mmMick Western Thunderer

    Should be a walk in the park this one Brian;):thumbs:
     
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  9. oldravendale

    oldravendale Western Thunderer

    Thanks for the benefit of your previous experience, Mick. I'd not thought of that.......:bowdown: Fortunately it's easy enough to put both sides back in the rolling bars which are set up as they were for the original rolling.:)

    Brian
     
  10. oldravendale

    oldravendale Western Thunderer

    I can't get used to this. Everything fits and in the right order.

    Tender back made up and cleaned up, complete with lamp irons, and tender front during make up.

    IMG_20190115_150317054_HDR.jpg

    Completed tender front with all the accoutrements fitted.

    IMG_20190119_140357494.jpg

    and finally, for today, this is not the car crash it appears to be, but the dry run as recommended in the instructions to ensure that everything fits. Of course bits keep falling off, but the next step will be to twist all those tabs to fix everything in place.

    IMG_20190119_140841267.jpg

    That was done today and most was soldered and then cleaned up. However, as it needed a good wash any photos will have to wait until tomorrow.

    I simply can't believe how quickly this all goes together bearing in mind a certain previous experience. The tender body, sans castings, is almost complete in three afternoons, and I'm a very slow builder.

    If I can find a problem, and it's a minor issue, some of the parts appear to be wrongly numbered or un-numbered in the instructions but with application of thought and consideration the parts fit perfectly. Sometimes the tabs can take a bit of filing off without scarring the mating surface too, but those are minor concerns.

    It's a joy!!

    Brian
     
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  11. Steph Dale

    Steph Dale Western Thunderer

    Dad,

    Take the tabs as close as you're comfortable with using flush cutters or by snapping them off (rotate through more than 90 degrees). The removal of the last bit on the surface can then be done with wet and dry paper (about 250 grit, finishing with 400 grit would be good) wrapped around a 8" (or larger) flat file and used wet or perhaps with white spirit or paraffin if you're really fussy about the finish. Work the abrasive in a circular or figure eight pattern over the area, keeping it wet and it'll soon flatten off.

    If you don't want to wrap wet and dry round a file you can easily make your own panel sanders: Cheap and quick panel sanders.

    And no file marks. :)

    You wouldn't use a file to prepare a panel on a car, so I why try it on a model? Well, I don't think you would... :confused:

    Steph
     
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  12. oldravendale

    oldravendale Western Thunderer

    Thanks for the suggestion, Steph.

    I'll be doing that, then.:)

    Brian
     
  13. Max Midnight

    Max Midnight Active Member

    Ah, but you would.

     
  14. SimonT

    SimonT Western Thunderer

    Brian,
    try the Albion Alloys "Professional Sanding Files 4 Piece - Assorted Files" Code 542. Four foam sticks coated with different grades of grit. My oldest is now as smooth as the piece of 1000 grade wet and dry that I inherited from Granny. I used to glue up my own sticks but prefer to spend the time on something else! How many inside motion kits do we do?:eek:
    Simon
     
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  15. simond

    simond Western Thunderer

    Nice, Max, though the soundtrack woke me up...
     
  16. Steph Dale

    Steph Dale Western Thunderer

    That's an interesting call, Simon (T).

    If they're foam-backed or flexible, I still think I'd prefer something more flat and/or rigid to get a flat or one dimensional curved surface. They're a good analogy to the car body files linked to above by Max - so more useful for 3d shapes. If they're hard or rigid it's a good call - I still prefer wrapping abrasive paper around a file though.

    I also note that you can buy a variety of abrasive sticks in Boots in the nail treatment area. They're usually cheaper than model suppliers and there are more chemists than model shops!

    Steph
     
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  17. P A D

    P A D Western Thunderer

    Hi Brian,
    I found that twisting the tabs with a small pair of pliers left less of the tabs to rub down than side cutters. Where an overlay is going on later, file marks are not a worry, but as mention by Steph fine emery/ wet and dry papers are better on visible areas. For flat surfaces, I placed the workpiece face down on fine emery on a flat surface and found that a few strokes back and forth gave a good finish.

    I can tell you are really missing the lack of challenge that you get with an Ace kit!
    ;)

    Cheers,
    Peter
     
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  18. simond

    simond Western Thunderer

    I habitually have a piece of MDF with a full sheet of wet&dry stuck down with spraymount handy to the workbench. Obviously different grades on each side is an option. Very handy for getting long straight edges decusped.

    Atb
    Simon
     
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  19. Steph Dale

    Steph Dale Western Thunderer

    Actually, so have I. It's in the 'so obvious I forgot to mention it' category. So I didn't mention it...!

    Oh and while in 'so obvious I forgot to mention it' territory, I 'stick' my chosen abrasive to the MDF with water - the surface tension is enough to hold it in place with the assistance of atmospheric pressure. So I can change abrasive grades at will.

    Poor old Will....

    Steph
     
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  20. mickoo

    mickoo Western Thunderer