Cellulose Over Enamels?

Phill Dyson

Phill Dyson

Western Thunderer
Just a quick question really.........having discovered my can of enamel WP Yellow has no air in it :headbang:, my question is can I get away with using JLTRT cellulose over Rail Match enamel rail blue & Halfords primer which are already on my Class 121? (the enamel & primer are already fully dry if it makes a difference)

Cheers Phill
 
Dikitriki

Dikitriki

Flying Squad
It is possible to spray cellulose over enamel. Very, very light coats following the spray gun with a hairdryer. I've never had the bottle to do it.

I would have thought a cellulose rattle can over railmatch enamel is a recipe for disaster, bone dry or not. If you have got away with it, buy a lottery ticket.

Enamel over cellulose is fine.

Richard
 
adrian

adrian

Flying Squad
Phill Dyson said:
BTW is enamel over cellulose OK ?
Click to expand...
Not recommended but perfectly possible if the enamel has had adequate time to harden. If the enamel has just dried then the cellulose may well react with the enamel. At least 3 or 4 weeks allows the enamel to harden. When I was helping Bob Moore demonstrate his lining pen the panel he used to demonstrate was painted with enamel paint. After a demo he would then wipe the panel with cellulose thinners, this would remove the freshly painted lining but the base panel enamel colour was left untouched, as good as new.

So yes possible but avoid it if possible.
 
Phill Dyson

Phill Dyson

Western Thunderer
No sign of cracking yet :thumbs:........it's just had it's 4th light coat of cellulose as it is taking some covering, but touch wood all is well..... hopefully :D
 
Phill Dyson

Phill Dyson

Western Thunderer
Well it's 10 days since I did the deed & both modeler & model are doing well ! .......................maybe cellulose works over enamel in leap years :p :))
 
Steph Dale

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
Jordan said:
Just fell into this trap this morning.... :oops:

I'm re-painting a Kato HO loco... Kato paint is notoriously hard to remove, so after removing the few insignia on the bodyshell with a fibreglass pencil, I decided to give it a couple of coats of black, to cover the orange livery (yes, Orange... no comments about American tastes, or lack of, thankyou :rolleyes: ) before applying the blue (yes BLUE ) top coat....
Black aerosol ('Plasticote' from Wilkos) went on okay... this morning I sprayed the top coat - a Tamiya aerosol....

crinkle crinkle crinkle went the paint....... :eek: :confused: :shit:

:rant::headbang::rant::headbang::rant: went I.... Tamiya aerosols must be cellulose, not enamel....

Bodyshell now having a bath in brake fluid for a while......:(
Click to expand...

Hmm, so that's an ex-Milwaukee loco then???

Jordan,
Believe it or not you can get Atlas and even Kato paint to degrade if not come off completely using Phoenix Precision 'Superstrip'. I've got a couple of GP7 'shells here that I've treated with it and while they're still stained, the thickness of the paint is off and they're ready for repainting (or would be if I could get hold of the 1976 Detroit and Toledo Shore Line decals!).
I've also used concentrated screen wash to lift paint for US-outline models; it contains Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) and an anti-foaming agent so works well as a water-soluble cleaner.
And don't forget that IPA is available from Maplin in reasonable quantities.
Last thought (picked up from Diesel Detailer forum) is to use oven cleaner.

Oh, and Tamiya paint is acrylic. It's just very temperamental. Come into the C21st and use some decent stuff like Vallejo...!

Steph
 
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