Cessy-en-Bois: Une petite gare de triage

chrisb

Western Thunderer
Thank you for the kind comments, likes and thumbs!

Massif Central or Jura?

I wasn't really aiming for anything quite so specific (anything vaguely looking like a rock would have been fine) but to my eye it's perhaps more Massif Central, especially once I've added a bit of greenery to the nooks and crannies and the flatter bits.

...I presume this was part of the development and design?

Well...um...to be honest, I'm doing a lot of this by the seat of my pants.

As for the lighting strip itself will this be mounted directly to the 'ceiling' or will you angle it

I experimented with the lightstrip mounted horizontally to the 'ceiling' and vertically to the inside face of the front fascia. I preferred it mounted horizontally as it provided the most illumination to the very front of the layout which is really where most of the 'action' is going to take place.

Does the lighting strip tell you the angle of light dispersion e.g. 30 deg, 60 deg..

There's nothing about this in the Neopixel strip's specification sheet but a couple of replies in one of the Arduino forums state the beam angle, as I know it, is 120degrees.
 

chrisb

Western Thunderer
One advantage (for me) of completing the layout in sections, from back to front, is that I can flit from one thing to another without pangs (or at least too many) of guilt for leaving a task unfinished.

So, flitting onto the first of the buildings, the vieille huilerie, knocked up from thick card faced with cartridge paper...
IMG_9422.jpg

The walls will be rendered with underlying briques creuses exposed in places where the rendering has fallen away.

The briques creuses were simply scored onto the card and then painted with a mixture of Tamiya acrylics (XF-2 Flat white, XF-3 Yellow, XF-7 Red), AK Interactive Paneliner AK2075 Black camouflage for the mortar lines and then lightly dry brushed with Vallejo Model Wash 76.517 Dark grey and Tamiya Flat white (XF-2).
 

jonte

Western Thunderer
I like it, Chris.

Incidentally, may I ask what you used to scribe the surface of the cartridge paper (the mortar lines are obviously thicker than the thin serrations on the brick surfaces, therefore I presume you used more than one type of scriber)?

Many thanks,

Jonte
 

jonte

Western Thunderer
I used a propelling pencil with a 0.3mm lead to create the mortar lines and an Xacto blade to gently score surface of the bricks.

Many thanks, Chris.

I like the rustic finish of the modelling paste too and the addled parts where the brick shows through is most realistic.

Regards,

Jonte
 

chrisb

Western Thunderer
Thanks again for the likes and kind comments.

Here's the huilerie in its current state:
IMG_9561.jpg

IMG_9562.jpg

The modeling paste was painted with Tamiya acrylics (XF-2 Flat white, XF-19 Sky grey, XF-20 Grey medium and XF-55 Deck tan) and then dry brushed with Humbrol Matt 28 and Humbrol Matt 121. The electrical trunking/fittings were picked out in Tamiya XF-19 Sky grey. The entire building was then given a patchy wash using Vallejo Model Wash 76.517 Dark grey followed with a light dry brush using Tamiya XF-2 Flat white. Some staining was added here and there using Tamiya XF-68 NATO brown.

The electrical trunking/fittings were made from odd bits of plastic, tube, wire and etched metal fret:
IMG_9429.jpg

The door and windows were knocked up from plastic sheet and strip and then painted with a 2:1 mixture of Tamiya XF-2 Flat white and XF-8 Flat blue. The worn/chipped areas were added with a small piece of kitchen sponge dabbed in Vallejo Model Color Acrylic 70.822 German camouflage black brown.

I still need to bed the building down onto the depron base, add a guardrail along the front of the building and sort out the corrugated iron roof.
 
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chrisb

Western Thunderer
After a bit of an interlude...time for a quick update on track and specifically the Peco turnouts which I've hacked to hopefully make them appear a little more prototypical. I hope these before and after photographs of the bottom and top sides respectively are self-explanatory:
underside.jpg
topside.jpg
 

chrisb

Western Thunderer
Having successfully tested the trackwork, I'm now anxious to start work on the catenary for the voie de service which is basically the rear loop on the trackplan (page 1). But to do this I need to complete the background scenery first.

So, armed with more Magigras as well as various products from Silhouette miniNatur, I finished the scenery at the rear of the layout this weekend:
IMG_9951.jpg

IMG_9958.jpg

IMG_9957.jpg

IMG_9949.jpg

The chain link fence (Decapod) was painted with Upol acid etch primer and then weathered using oil brushers from Ammo by Mig Jiminez.
 

adrian

Flying Squad
then weathered using oil brushers from Ammo by Mig Jiminez.
If you don't mind me asking what's your opinion of these? I got an email circular from a scale model site advertising these a few days ago. I thought they looked quite interesting so I'd be keen to find out a few opinions from people who've actually used them.
 

chrisb

Western Thunderer
...what's your opinion of these?

Overall, I've been very impressed. I find oils difficult in general - not only mixing basic colours but also getting the consistency just right. The consistency of the paint in these brushes is perfect and there's a good range of colours, including "Starship Grime', my favourite general weathering colour. The tubes seem to have an internal seal on them which should help prevent the paints from drying out.
 

Yorkshire Dave

Western Thunderer
I have used oil paints for weathering in the past but now use acrylics due to the drying time. What is the drying time of the oil brushers as I may give these a try.

One of the tricks of using oil paints for weathering is to squeeze the colours you require onto a piece of corrugated card (the kind used for boxes) and leave to stand for an hour or so the card soaks up the excess oil.
 
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