Cessy-en-Bois: Une petite gare de triage

chrisb

Western Thunderer
Thank you again for all the kind comments and likes.

When I was building the cabin for the weighbridge I had wanted to install a bulkhead-type light above the door but, I was running behind schedule and wasn't immediately sure how best to model one, so I dropped the idea.

But I recently came across 2mm (dia.) tower LEDs:
IMG_0095.jpg

which I realised could be used to fairly easily produce this:
IMG_0092.jpg

and which I plan to install on the mess room which is currently under construction.

First step involved putting a blob of canopy glue:
IMG_0085.jpg

on the top of the LED to create a rounded end:
IMG_0081.jpg

Once hardened, I used EZ line (which I had bought ages ago for rigging 1/32 WWI model aircraft):
IMG_0094.jpg

and various bits of brass tube to create the housing:
IMG_0086.jpg

All in all a bit fiddly but a satisfying way to spend Saturday morning waiting at home for a delivery.
 

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
Possibly a Fred Dibnah miniature in view? The model to the right (in the last photo) has a similar stance and cap.
 
Last edited:

Yorkshire Dave

Western Thunderer
This is the first time I've used blue foam for anything other than baseboards. I'm finding it very easy to sand, cut, glue , texture and paint and, perhaps best of all for a portable layout, it's very light in weight.

Does the blue foam come in sheets of the thickness you've used and it it textured as seen or do you add the texture?
 

Pencarrow

Western Thunderer
Loving the texture you get from the foam but I'd be a little concerned about durability and potential for damage. That said, I do tend to overbuild my buildings!
 

chrisb

Western Thunderer
Does the blue foam come in sheets of the thickness you've used and it it textured as seen or do you add the texture?

4D Model Shop sells foamboard in many different thicknesses (I've used 3mm foam for the mess room) although for some reason it's no longer available in blue. It comes with a rough, slightly fibrous texture which is easily smoothed off with fine sandpaper. From there I score the cracks with the tip of a craft knife blade or the tip of some very fine tweezers (to be honest I don't think it matters what you use, a pin held in a pin vise would work I'm sure) and then bash the surface with a wire brush to get the texture I'm after.

Any visible joins are easily masked with AK Interactive's Acrylic Texture Medium which is also useful for adding texture to suit or even repairing dents. I used this texture medium to create the horizontal lines created by the forms on the concrete bases for the signal gantry and the catenary supports and also the concrete buffer stops:
IMG_9987.jpg
 

ChrisM

Active Member
Ditto to what Alan said Chris, that's really impressive, youve created something very interesting from what is, in reality, probably the least interesting piece of architecture going!

Everything on this layout is screaming Francais to me, cracking stuff.

Chris
 
Top