7mm Connoissuer LSWR/SR/BR Brake Van x 2

Rob Pulham

Western Thunderer

These are destined for the small ads so now I need to decide on how I intend to finish them. Personally I would like to do one LSWR version (so I can add the extra details that were removed later in it's life) and a BR version. But I suspect that in terms of being attractive to a wider range of buyers the BR version will have most appeal.

Besides using them to generate funds I am also using these to ensure that I can still solder etc and work okay in metal before returning to building things for other people. My fingers are mostly back to normal after my mishap with the mower but there are some jobs such as driling with a pin vice that I am finding difficult at the minute. Hopefully that will improve with time and use.


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They are much more involved than I originally envisaged with a good number of overlaid parts. What you see above is the result of more than 8 hours work. Admittedly that is for two of them.

For anyone building these a tip is to take some time over the bending of the ducket fronts. Getting the basic shape was fairly simple. But taking extra time to get them to fit without having to apply any pressure paid dividends when it came to soldering them on.
 

Ressaldar

Western Thunderer
Hi Rob,

sorry to hear about your mower mishap, I hope that your modelling will in fact be helpful to your speedy recovery.

If you need any additional information regarding either build, please let me know, I probably have the answer on my library shelves.

Stay safe and well.

kind regards

Mike
 

Rob Pulham

Western Thunderer
Although I still have the small panels to add to the sides where the fixed side lamps were removed later in life. I cracked on with the veranda ends and managed to get them ready for fitting to the body.
Next up is the ends of the cabin and all the safety bars over the windows. Although since my order of brass angle for the step boards on the LNER van has arrived from Barry at Metalsmith I may get the step boards prepared for fitting.

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Martin Shaw

Western Thunderer
Rob
I see Mike has sent you something, I have the relevant book but it maybe is what you now have. If not let me know and I can scan it.
Regards
Martin
 

Rob Pulham

Western Thunderer
Rob
I see Mike has sent you something, I have the relevant book but it maybe is what you now have. If not let me know and I can scan it.
Regards
Martin
Thanks Martin, hopefully I have enough to complete them. I am really out of my comfort zone with these:eek:
 

Rob Pulham

Western Thunderer
Yesterday I managed to get the cabin ends detailed ready for assembly to the body.



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Although not discernable on the photos that I have due to their position and being in shadow. The drawing that Jim includes with the kit has a notation that the vents above the doors were planked over later in life (Mike sent me a copy of the same drawing). What I am not sure about it whether the planking was flush with the ends or that the vents were literally planked over. For ease I have chosen to do the latter using some thin scrap etch.

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Rob Pulham

Western Thunderer
Modelling time has been a bit limited this week so I haven't made much progress on these but I have managed to get one of the basic bodies together and the ends soldered to one side on the other one.



That looks like I should have rinsed it a bit better...

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The last shot will teach me not to sneak in a bit of modelling late at night when I am half asleep... I didn't have the energy to take it of again last night when I realised that I had rather neatly soldered it to the wrong end....
 

dibateg

Western Thunderer
Looks like you've still got it Rob. Mishap with the mower? Christ, what the hell have you been doing?

Hopefully all is well now.

Regards
Tony
 

Rob Pulham

Western Thunderer
Looks like you've still got it Rob. Mishap with the mower? Christ, what the hell have you been doing?

Hopefully all is well now.

Regards
Tony

Hi Tony,

I will give you the detail of what happened when I see you next, but in a nutshell I cut through the finger ends including the bones on both middle fingers of my right hand.

I knew it was serious because I nearly passed out on the way to the hospital, something that I hadn't come close to doing previously despite accruing quite a few scars in 15 years as a butcher...

They have healed pretty well and unless you look closely you wouldn't know that I had done it. The finger ends are still tender but that should go in time.
 

Lancastrian

Western Thunderer
Oooooh Rob ! That must be terribly painful. I hope you're ok and that you don't suffer any long term damage. Take care.

Ian
 

dibateg

Western Thunderer
Yes - I think I'll skip on the detail Rob! Glad that you are ok. Phew!

Did you build a J6 a while back? - I was looking for your thread.

Tony
 

Rob Pulham

Western Thunderer
Yes - I think I'll skip on the detail Rob! Glad that you are ok. Phew!

Did you build a J6 a while back? - I was looking for your thread.

Tony
Hi Tony,

I did but sadly I got distracted and I still have the loco to finish - I will be resurrecting it fairly soon now that I am back at the bench.
 

Rob Pulham

Western Thunderer
Last night I unsoldered the errant end and soldered it on at the right end and then made up the second body.

This morning I added the end platforms before looking at fitting the doors.
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Although I had discussed with Kim the suggestion of adding opening doors I initially planned to solder at least some of them on. When it came to it, I did manage to get them soldered on one end but getting them in the right position was quite difficult and because they are laminated from two full thickness pieces they took a lot of heat from the microflame to get them the solder to melt and I wasn't really happy with them.
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My main concern with making opening doors was how to get the pin in to retain them because the doors fit tight under the strip that runs across the veranda end which represents the timber framing. I thought about drilling a hole in the strip to insert the pin from the top but it was too close to the upright and would have been hard work so I inserted it from the bottom and soldered it in. It does mean that I can't take them off for painting but it was the only way to get them on.

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Once I had the hang of how to do it I had the rest done in a couple of hours.

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Just to prove that they do indeed open I took a short video.

 
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