Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Area 51' started by P A D, 9 February 2019.
I don't just like this, I think it's marvelous!
The rod at the small end of the lifting link was run though, soldered and after snipping the excess and filing back, the rod between the links was sawed through and filed so the the end of the radius rod was a sliding fit.
With the body on the top of the expansion link now runs clear of the bottom of the valance.
The inspection covers have also been fitted to the cylinder wrappers and three options are provided.
And some gratuitous shots to finish off.
Up to your usual excellent standards and very rapid progress too.
How many kits a month will you finish when retired.....................
Many thanks Paul. Glad you are enjoying it.
Thanks to you also. It's taken 2 months to get to here, so I need to speed up to reach the output you mention. I need to get some painting done, so I hope the Mogul doesn't start calling to me from the box.
As a parting shot on the chassis for now, here's a view showing how the valve gear/cylinders screw into the chassis.
Back onto the body for a while, I've tried something new for me. I bought some 4 x 1mm mini magnets on Ebay (@ 5 quid for 100) and attached one to the front and rear cab plates, with matching ones front and back on the cab roof. The front one is epoxied to the a bracket soldered to the cab and the rear one is fixed to the some waste etch on top of the locker.
And the roof magnets. It works pretty well, wit the roof held firmly enough to stay in place, but ag the same time lifting off easily. I think I read somewhere that one of the RTR manufacturers had used magnets for fixing the roof, Lionheart maybe.
At the front end the steam pipe castings have been soldered to the smokebox with 145 and lift off with the boiler.
On the other side the ejector and atomiser valve have also been added.
And in cruel close up.
A fair amount of preparation of the lubricator castings is required before they can be fitted. Both castings come with dimples for 6 feeds, but there should be 8 on the left hand one and 4 on the right. I wanted to add a representation of the pipe unions using 0.8mm OD tube, so unfortunately there wasn't space to drill 8 holes and have compromised with 6. The inside diameter of the tube is 0.4mm so was just right for the 0.4mm copper wire I wanted to use. Here is the left one drilled out with 6 holes and the right filed smaller and drilled with 4. I did this on my proxxon bench drill with the casting clamped in the machine vice. The drill was oiled for each hole and the drill run at the slowest speed.
The left hand lubricator also has two feeds at the front, although I believe these may be steam heating pipes to thin the thicker cylinder oil to get it flow.
Accept for the front pipes, I cut 7mm lengths of the tube to insert into the holes. This gave an overlap each side to represent the unions. For the larger one I soldered lengths of wire into the tube and then inserted the tube into the casting and fixed with super glue. For the smaller one I put the tubes in first, superglued and then added the wire and superglued that.
Here are the lubricators with the pipes in place.
And with the actuating levers on.
I know how time consuming this is as I did it with Laurie's brass fittings in place of Connoisseur's white metal on my 4F. Bravo! My work is somewhere on RMWeb but I can't find it and I'm not going to spend time trying!
I have some LG brass castings for the lubricators that original owner of the kit bought, but they don't have the plinth so I decided not to use them. Also, it's much easier drilling the white metal.
Having the boiler removable will make it much easier to fit the lubricators and route the pipes, than doing it with the boiler in place. I do like kits that lend themselves to be broken down for painting, even if not part of the original design. The Finney 7 A3 is one such kit as is their Duchess.
This arrived in the post last week so I have been distracted from the 2 6 4 stripping it down, cleaning and rebuilding.
Like most examples that you see, the motor paintwork takes a bashing, so after giving it a good clean and degrease, I mixed up some enamel paint to match the original grey and repainted it. I have ordered some new drive belts and a set of lathe tools and picked up a copy of the manual on Ebay and then I need to learn how to use it.
Back on the 2 6 4 the lubricators and running plate oil pots added.
And from the other side. It makes things so much easier fitting these parts when the boiler can be taken off. Yes the parts could be added before the boiler is soldered in place, but imagine how difficult it would be to clean up around the saddle with the lubricators in the way.
And back together with the boiler and chassis.
A view from the front.
Whoops, I didn't put the roof on correctly in this view. The magnets work well in retaining the roof but I'll need to add some locating pins of some sort to keep it on squarely.
Yes, that's the idea. Have a look at my Finney A3 thread here.
Martin Finney 7mm A3
The loco breakes down from this,
To this. As a pro painter I'm sure you will appreciate this.
To locate my rooves (roofs?) I solder a length of 0.6 mm nickel silver wire to the inside at the corners and then bend It down to locate on the inside corners of the cab walls.
Easy on a tank engine to make four prongs that poke down into each corner. On tender engines you rarely have anything at the rear to stop the roof sliding back and forth. So I put two small bore tubes in the front corners which he peongs fit into and hold it all in place.
I've done the same in the past on tank locos, but wanted to try something different. The magnets work fine but the ones on the roof are not in quite the right place to centralise it on the cab. First I will try to reposition them so that they hold the roof centrally on the cab and failing that I may revert to the tried and tested method you mention.
I've not tried your method for tender locos but will file that away for future use.
Some further goodies for the lathe arrived today. Cutting tools from RDG along with some centre drills and a live center from Ebay. The live center is an Emco item in good nick and the Tommy bars were knocked up from some steel rod.
Back on the build, steps plus brake and steam heating pipes added to the front end.
As have the cab steps and tank balance pipes.
Along with the rear buffer step, steam heat and brake pipe.
I hope the cab steps don't foul the front bogie wheel on the curves. Externally, that just leaves the injectors, drain cocks, cab door, sand pipes, cab inserts and hand rails to add before I start scratch building the missing detail on the pony truck and cab rear bulk head.
Plus the whistle of course. Then I need to sort out the pick ups and get it running.
The cylinder drain cocks have now been added.
I'll need to make a clip/support bracket for the end of the pipes and cut them back a little.
Further back the injectors and pipework have now been fitted and the safety valves added temporarily. There should be a support bracket on the frame above the bogie and that will be made in due course.
I've made a start on scratch building the missing details for the cab rear either side of the coal doors. I will solder them to an overlay of thin brass sheet, then glue it in rather than try to solder and clean up in the cab. That said I will have to do that with the crew seats.
I was distracted finishing the base for my new toy (lathe) this afternoon, but got this far making the overlays for the cab rear. I have based them on the photo of the class 3 2 6 2 cab that Mickoo posted and the cab of 2500. The oilpots are 3 feed instead of 2 and are in a different location to the 2 6 2 on 2500, so I have gone with the latter. They are spares from the kit that I didn't use, but heavily filed to reduce the size. I need go make the slacking pipe and tap for the left hand side and then they can be stuck in place.
This afternoon I realised I had put the fittings on too high up, so off they came and were refitted. On the left hand side I made the steam cleaning pipe, tap and flexible slacking pipe. The image quality is not good enough to see, but I made a representation of the rei forcing on the slacking pipe, by holding a length of 0.7mm brass rod in the pin vice, then rotated it between a groove in a block of wood and a sharp blade pressed down at a slight angle to make sort of "screw thread" effect.
The slacking pipe was annealed for shaping before soldering it in place. I must round off the top of the brake handle with a cup burr and clean up that crud around the base of the pick up domes.
The panels are just loosely placed in the cab as there are further details to add.
Here's the final version of the panels. 2500 has handwheels with spigots so I removed the levers and added some spare ethings from the MOK 4MT. There are 12 separate pieces in the right hand one and 17 in the left. For what you can see through the cab lookout I suppose it was a bit of a vanity project really.
And in the cab.
I have removed as much of the epoxy around the base of the water pick up domes, but I really shou,d have done that before it hardened too much. The ends of the brake handle have been rounded off with a cup burr to tidy them up.
The cab doors, inserts and handrails have now been added. The door inserts were a real pig to fit, having to hold them in place with a pair of tweezers while soldering the seam which is right next to the beading. It took a lot of special language to get them in.
Further forward, the grab rails on the hanging plate above the expansion link have been added but I've no idea what purpose they served. On some of the class, there was an opening in the tanks just above them. On one illustration I've seen, the caption describes then as a foot hole, but I see why the crew would need to stand there. If anybody knows what the holes and grab rails were for, it would be good to hear.
Here's a couple of views of the cab door area.
On 2500, the handrails are secured at the bottom with a nut under the running plate. I'm assuming the 2 cylinder versions were the same so I left a little of the rail showing to represent the nut.
The coupling hooks on these locos pivoted from side to side in a horizontal slot 8n the bufferbeam. The kit provides the normal type of hook, so to fix it there is a bracket with vertical slot to go behind the buffer beam. To beef it up I added some NS spare etch in the fold and soldered them both with 225 solder. Hopefully it will take the strain of pulling a train.
The front one. The steps have been reinforced with a bracket made from spare etch.
So, apart from the whistle, all the external body detail has been added. That just leaves the backplate, reversing mech, cab seats and couplings to complete it. On the chassis, the sandpipes plus some scratch parts will finish that off and then I'll fit the pick ups and motor.
Another masterpiece from your stable!!
Many thanks Deano.
Next up, the sandpipes. These locos had steam sanding so I made them from 0.8mm brass for the sand, 0.5mm for the steam feed and made a representation of the joint behind the nozzle by wrapping 0.2mm wire around the two and soldering. Here they are ready fir fitting.
And in place on the leff hand side.
And the right. I still need to make the support brackets.
You can see the oilpots kn the slidebars above but here a cleared view. These are filed down items from the soares box.
I'm getting closer to the finishing line.
I made a comparison with my other 2 6 4 tank locos. Here with MOK 4MT.
And with my brother's DJB 4MT, and my Gladiator L1.
From an overall length point of view, the big Stanier is the longest.
This view doesn't show how short the L1 is compared to the others, but does show how uncluttered with details it is compared to the Stanier and particularly the BR tanks.
I do like big tanks and it's a shame that nobody does a decent Fairburn kit. I know the DJH kit can be made into an excellent model if a lot of effort is put into correcting the errors and Tony Geary's build is a masterclass in how to do this, but it's an expensive kit to have to do so much reworking.
On the pony truck, some of the missing detail has been added. I don't have a drawing or good enough photos to do an accurate job, so I've made a representation of what can be seen on 2500. I've only concentrated on what can be seen from the front, namely the frame stretcher with one large and two small lightening holes, and the side control coil spring. There are two stretchers, one in front of and one behind the axle. There is also a spring at the rear of the truck mirroring the position of the front one, but that can only be seen on the real thing if you get down on your hands and knees.
They are just visible head on from the front, so worth the effort to represent.