7mm 'Denton Brook' an industrial whimsey
- Thread starter Giles
- Start date
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Mmmmm I'll need some of those in due course, it's finding bolts with 1.50 mm AF that's difficult, well, at a price that kill the wallet stone dead.And now nuts...... 1.5mm AF (actual) to suit 0.8mm rod or wire. 0.8mm thick.
Pack of 100
Giles
Western Thunderer
This is now getting silly. I can get smaller - 1.05mm AF, to fit 0.5mm wire or rod. This is as small as I can go, and I dare say no-one would want these anyway (they're very small!)
Same as before, if anyone wants them - £3.80 per hundred, but your eye-sight will need to be good!
Same as before, if anyone wants them - £3.80 per hundred, but your eye-sight will need to be good!
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Can you do them without the hole to represent bolt heads? I'm looking at some plastic ones on ebay, whole strips of them in different sizes and cheap too. ..link later.
Link Meng Model 1:35 - Nuts and Bolts SET A (Large)
MD
Link Meng Model 1:35 - Nuts and Bolts SET A (Large)
MD
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mickoo
Western Thunderer
And in 16mm scale
1.05mm is close to 7/16" Whitworth.
1.50mm is close to 5/8" Whitworth.
I also need some 1/2" ones which is 1.22mm AF
British Standard Whitworth Thread Chart
MD
Overseer
Western Thunderer
If you want brass, Eileen's sell 1mm and 1.5mm hex brass rod in 250mm lengths for £1. Simple but fiddly to turn up nuts or bolts, a small lathe and sharp tools help. Jewellers draw plates are available with hex holes to make lots of sizes around these from plain wire.And in 16mm scale
1.05mm is close to 7/16" Whitworth.
1.50mm is close to 5/8" Whitworth.
I also need some 1/2" ones which is 1.22mm AF
British Standard Whitworth Thread Chart
MD
oldravendale
Western Thunderer
I've seen draw plates, but never used one. A couple of questions before I take the plunge, as the ability to create specialist sizes which are not off the shelf would be valuable sometimes.
As the wire to be reduced is clearly larger than the hole one is trying to get it through, how does one get it started? Will these work with the half hard brass wire (I believe that's what it is, unless someone advises differently) we are used to buying, or does it have to be annealed - not that doing so is a problem, just something of which to be aware?
Brian
As the wire to be reduced is clearly larger than the hole one is trying to get it through, how does one get it started? Will these work with the half hard brass wire (I believe that's what it is, unless someone advises differently) we are used to buying, or does it have to be annealed - not that doing so is a problem, just something of which to be aware?
Brian
Overseer
Western Thunderer
Start by filing the end of the wire. The wire may need to be annealed, try it and see. It will work harden as you pull it through the smaller and smaller holes. Use beeswax or another lubricant. There are plenty of online explanations for using draw plates, this is one which is quite clear - Jewelry Tutorial making Wire .
pakpaul
Western Thunderer
In terms of getting the wire through the hole which is smaller than it, you simply file the end till it goes through the hole, preferably with a gentle taper over say about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch (12mm to 20mm).
Should you only wish to make a small reduction in size, if it is half hard you may get away with 5 to 10% reduction in diameter, any greater than this and annealing is almost certainly required, the simple answer is of course to try it, if it breaks you need to anneal it, if it doesn't, then you don't, unless you need to make sharp bends in it which might also cause it to break. (Please be careful if you are pulling the wire through a draw plate, say with a pair of pliers, a 1mm brass or especially nickle silver wire needs a lot of force to pull it through, make sure you have a soft landing available!)
The real problem you will face is that when it has passed through the draw plate it will tend to curve, the greater the reduction in size, the greater it seems the curvature. If the wire is not too hard, then stretching it will straighten it, if it is very hard then it won't, and the wire will have to be annealed, and then stretched. Some old model railway magazines had suggestions for straightening hard wire by connecting it across the terminals of a car battery and pulling it straight, don't try it, it definitely is not safe.
I have a couple of draw plates and have got to the stage of nearly finishing a draw bench, basically a device where you fit the draw plate and grip the end of the wire with tongs, and pull the tongs with a rope or strap attached to a reel.
Unfortunately I have a few medical issues, and it will be a month or so before I can make any more progress, but when I can get on with it I will write it up on the forum, also I intend to look at other ways of straightening the wire.
Paul
Should you only wish to make a small reduction in size, if it is half hard you may get away with 5 to 10% reduction in diameter, any greater than this and annealing is almost certainly required, the simple answer is of course to try it, if it breaks you need to anneal it, if it doesn't, then you don't, unless you need to make sharp bends in it which might also cause it to break. (Please be careful if you are pulling the wire through a draw plate, say with a pair of pliers, a 1mm brass or especially nickle silver wire needs a lot of force to pull it through, make sure you have a soft landing available!)
The real problem you will face is that when it has passed through the draw plate it will tend to curve, the greater the reduction in size, the greater it seems the curvature. If the wire is not too hard, then stretching it will straighten it, if it is very hard then it won't, and the wire will have to be annealed, and then stretched. Some old model railway magazines had suggestions for straightening hard wire by connecting it across the terminals of a car battery and pulling it straight, don't try it, it definitely is not safe.
I have a couple of draw plates and have got to the stage of nearly finishing a draw bench, basically a device where you fit the draw plate and grip the end of the wire with tongs, and pull the tongs with a rope or strap attached to a reel.
Unfortunately I have a few medical issues, and it will be a month or so before I can make any more progress, but when I can get on with it I will write it up on the forum, also I intend to look at other ways of straightening the wire.
Paul
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Giles
Western Thunderer
..... Above all, the draw-plate must be secure in a worthy vice or similar, sufficient to withstand all the pulling. It's painful and embarrassing to have the plate, vice with or without the bench itself end up in your lap or on the floor.
Meanwhile, should anyone want some plastic ones, let me know!
Meanwhile, should anyone want some plastic ones, let me know!
oldravendale
Western Thunderer
Many thanks for all the help, especially the tutorial.
Brian
Brian
Giles
Western Thunderer
Glutton for punishment that I am, this caught my eye, and I shall have a bash at converting it for control.
This won't be straightforward, as it's not always easy to get cranes/string/hooks to behave quite as one would like in smaller sizes, and obviously I should like it to be as fully functional as possible.
The donor vehicle is a Maz 200 crane from EBay, made in China, but sold in Eastern Europe.
This won't be straightforward, as it's not always easy to get cranes/string/hooks to behave quite as one would like in smaller sizes, and obviously I should like it to be as fully functional as possible.
The donor vehicle is a Maz 200 crane from EBay, made in China, but sold in Eastern Europe.
Giles
Western Thunderer
All the pulley sheeves are plastic and fixed - which aren't a lot of use for a working model - so I spent the afternoon machining up some brass pulleys that freely rotate with shafts to replace them. To my surprise I actually got it done..... The jib now raises and lowers very well, although I have to make a new hook from brass, as this plastic one is non-functional and far too light. But at least the rigging works
Giles
Western Thunderer
The new hook Has been made, replicating the plastic one (but working, and heavier) ready to fit when the Derrick is re-reeved. It's the first time I've used my little bolt heads (because I can.....!) and I just dabbed the teeniest amount of epoxy onto the brass, and placed the bolt head onto it. It would help if I had better eye sight.
