Emco Unimat 3 Lathe

P A D

P A D

Western Thunderer
As a distraction from the Stanier 2 6 4, the top slide arrived in the post. Although in good working condition, the aesthetics of the piece were somewhat lacking.
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Stains on the alloy cast slide and surface rust on the hand wheel were the main offenders, along with general dirt. I stripped it down, dunked if in white spirit to degrease, buzzed off the rust and crud with the wire brush and mini drill and reassembled, except for the handwheel. Removing the rust also removed the chemical blacking, so after further degreasing with cellulose thinners, I chemically re-blackened it and picked out the divisions with white paint.

Here are three comparative views after restoration.
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And on the cross slide on the machine.
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The collets and chucks I ordered also arrived but these needed no restoration or even cleaning. Here's the chuck with one of the collets in the machine.
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I've now got a couple of books on the use of the Unimat 3 and other small lathes, so coupled with the good advice and tips already offered on here I should be able to make something sooner or later. When I've got something impressive to show (impressive to me that is), I'll post some pics.
Cheers,
Peter
 
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Steph Dale

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
Peter,
That chuck/collet is sticking out a very long way- what's going on there? Ideally you want the collet to back down into the headstock...

Steph
 
P A D

P A D

Western Thunderer
Hi Steph,
It's not an original Emco fitting. It's an attachment that screws onto the lead screw. Not ideal if you want increased precision I know, but I've got it more for safety when using files on small parts. Safer than working close to the moving 3 jaw or Jacob's chuck. The Emco ones, when you can find them are a bit too expensive.
Cheers,
Peter
 
Steph Dale

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
Peter,
I think the 3 uses a semi-standard 14mm thread. You don't necessarily need an Emco chuck, I think mine came from Mill Hill Supplies.
It's not so much the precision I'm worried about, more the life of the headstock bearings; they're not renown for their longevity in these lathes and they're a pain to replace.
But it's worth noting that generally you buy and use collets for precision, so you could just use the regular chuck if you don't want precision. Or I've misunderstood your reply?
Steph
 
P A D

P A D

Western Thunderer
Hi Steph,
Thanks for the heads up on the bearings. I see what you mean so I'll bear that in mind.

With hindsight, I could just use the Jacob's chuck so maybe the collet chuck is an extravagance. Not to worry.

Cheers,
Peter
 
Ian_C

Ian_C

Western Thunderer
Stick with the collet chucks PAD. Far easier and more accurate to work with (provided they're running about true). Far less likely to take skin off knuckles than a 3 or 4 jaw chuck when working close with hand tools. I doubt you'll challenge the bearings with the kind of work you'll be doing in a collet chuck. You'll probably find that if you can get a collet chuck in the tailstock you'll use it for holding small drills too.
 
P A D

P A D

Western Thunderer
Many thanks for the comments Ian.

Looking at the superb lathe and milling work you are doing on the MOK 8F, I'm at the beginning of a very long learning curve.

Cheers,
Peter
 
-missy-

-missy-

Active Member
Hi.

As others have said, it's a great little lathe. I use mine loads and often take it to shows to show people it's capabilities.
If I were to suggest upgrades to one to make it much easier to use I would suggest the following..

1. A quick change toolpost. This makes changing over tools a breeze and also means you don't have to mess with shims to get the tool height correct. RDG tools do them for the Unimat.

2. Collect chuck. The one I use is from Chronos and screws direct onto the spindle. It uses er16 collets which are readily available via eBay. Just check they are 'high precision'.

3. Resettable dials. These make turning to size lots easier. They can be bought from Emco direct.

I hope that's of some use.

Julia :)
 
Ian_C

Ian_C

Western Thunderer
P A D said:
Many thanks for the comments Ian.

Looking at the superb lathe and milling work you are doing on the MOK 8F, I'm at the beginning of a very long learning curve.

Cheers,
Peter
Click to expand...
I'm not sure you are really. I had a Hobbymat lathe for years and used it occasionally. I bought a milling machine a couple of years ago and upgraded the lathe about the same time. Just about everything you see has been learned in that time simply by doing and experimenting. Every time I'm in the workshop I learn a bit more. Once you get the basic principles (buy a book if you must - but it's all on the www) you just build on them. There seems always to have been a bit of a 'dark arts / high priest' thing around machining - really there isn't.

I'd definitely take -missy- 's advice on quick change toolposts and collet chucks. The other huge step forward is to fit the lathe with DRO of some kind.

It'll make a huge difference to your modelling - enjoy the challenge.
 
Brian McKenzie

Brian McKenzie

Western Thunderer
And the best thing is that P A D has already used his new acquisition, and not buried it away with a stash of unbuilt kits - like in some other instances. ;)

My SL model Unimat now slumbers in retirement, but occasionally the headstock unit reappears mounted on the cross slide of a larger lathe for some secondary function. The original motor has expired. Much use was made of the sawbench attachment for cutting stripwood to custom sizes.
 
P A D

P A D

Western Thunderer
Julia, Ian and Brian
Many thanks for the comments and encouragement. Much appreciated.

Brian,
I have indeed " broke my duck" and made my first very modest part on the lathe to improve the appearance of the Stanier pony truck on my 2 6 4. I really aught to have made 2 as there was also a side control spring at the back of the truck. It was a very simple piece to wrap and mount the dummy spring, but very satisfying to have made it from raw stock rather than just taking it out of a packet ready to use.

I think I'll make another for the rear.

Cheers,
Peter
 
B

- Bryn

Member
-missy- said:
2. Collect chuck. The one I use is from Chronos and screws direct onto the spindle. It uses er16 collets which are readily available via eBay. Just check they are 'high precision'.
Click to expand...

Hello Julia!

Would you have the part number or link to said collet chuck please? I’m struggling to find one for my Unimat 4.

Many thanks

Bryn
 
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N

neaston

Western Thunderer
That's exactly what I have along with an array of collets from 1mm up to 16mm. The later is not much use as you can't get more than 10mm through the spindle.
I was VERY lucky to get one at that price.
Just watch Ebay closely would be my suggestion that's where I got mine.
Nick
 
Isambarduk

Isambarduk

Western Thunderer
Giles said:
I've just ordered a collet chuck from arceurotrade for £24 or so
ER16 Lathe Collet Chuck 62mm Dia. - Arc Euro Trade
Also a back-plate to mount it on for a tenner....
Click to expand...
Well done, Giles, that'll work.

However, there will be quite a large overhang with that arrangement on a Unimat 3. One of these would have been ideal:

ColletAssembledInHolder.jpg
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as it screws directly onto the nose of the headstock spindle.

SetOfColletsAndHolder.jpg
​

David
 
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