Rob Pulham
Western Thunderer
I wouldn't be without mine Paul
Finney7 Princess Coronation Build
- Thread starter Focalplane
- Start date
Focalplane
Western Thunderer
Rob, that’s good to know, thank you! I expect the local Tabac can provide le butan tomorrow morning! Well, I hope so. Otherwise a trip to a big French bricolage will be necessary. All we have is a small quinquaillerie.
Paul
Edit to add: Pas de gaz en stock! Off to Montpellier tomorrow, surely I can find butane somewhere!
Paul
Edit to add: Pas de gaz en stock! Off to Montpellier tomorrow, surely I can find butane somewhere!
Last edited:
Focalplane
Western Thunderer
Still no butane, only the propane/butane mix available so far. I have been doing other things but I do want to get back on 46235 a.s.a.p. One job I have been doing is polishing up the coupling rods that I put together when building the chassis. My previous builds have not received this level of attention. I can see that other top link builds (I have David Andrews' Castle and Patriot, the former partially constructed) will require similar attention to detail. Looking at the inside cylinder valve linkage design on the Princess Coronation kit makes me determined to fit a similar movement to the Castle.
The abc Gears motor and gearbox have not yet arrived and an email has been sent. I hope it is not lost.
Paul
The abc Gears motor and gearbox have not yet arrived and an email has been sent. I hope it is not lost.
Paul
simond
Western Thunderer
Paul,
Have a look at David Smith’s website re inside motion on a Castle...
Model Engineering - Railway Locomotives and Rolling Stock
Best
Simon
Have a look at David Smith’s website re inside motion on a Castle...
Model Engineering - Railway Locomotives and Rolling Stock
Best
Simon
Focalplane
Western Thunderer
Thanks, Simon, I was thinking sonething a lot simpler. Basically having a connection within the cylinder to drive the pivoted arm. Different from the Princess Coronation as on the Castle the valve mechanism is internal. I seem to remember a work around on RMWeb.
simond
Western Thunderer
That’s the system provided with the MM1 / JLTRT kits. I made it work on my King, but it was a bit flimsy & unconvincing, and I eventually took it off. Probably more to do with my impatience than any inherent fault in the kits, but I wasn’t impressed.
You can only see it working at dead slow speed anyway...
Atb
Simon
You can only see it working at dead slow speed anyway...
Atb
Simon
Focalplane
Western Thunderer
Thanks, Simon. I can only see things working at dead slow speed anyway! Mostly myself, to be honest.
Sunday in France so no chance of butane today as the stuff the Tabac sells doesn't say what's in the container, just "gaz". I bet it has propane in it so I am not taking any chances. Monday will see me in Perpignan (or Claira to be accurate) at Leroy Merlin, Brico Depot, Tridome and any other shop that might sell butane cent per cent.
Today will be another "coach day". My Better Half has left for grand child minding duties in England so I have moved my modelling workbench out of the windowless railway room up to the top floor:
The light is much better (!) due to the retractable roof. We desperately need some rain to wash the bird mess off the glass!
Bonne journée! Paul
Sunday in France so no chance of butane today as the stuff the Tabac sells doesn't say what's in the container, just "gaz". I bet it has propane in it so I am not taking any chances. Monday will see me in Perpignan (or Claira to be accurate) at Leroy Merlin, Brico Depot, Tridome and any other shop that might sell butane cent per cent.
Today will be another "coach day". My Better Half has left for grand child minding duties in England so I have moved my modelling workbench out of the windowless railway room up to the top floor:
The light is much better (!) due to the retractable roof. We desperately need some rain to wash the bird mess off the glass!
Bonne journée! Paul
Focalplane
Western Thunderer
Although I mostly worked on an LMS Period III Porthole 2nd Class Corridor coach today, I did spend some time preparing castings and etchings for the motion. I have to admit right now that this is my first foray into building a locomotive with Walschaerts valve gear on the outside and there are one or two, maybe more, uncertainties to be mastered. I grew up watching electric motors drive all the wonderful steam engines in the old Birmingham Museum of Science and Industry but to be honest I am not really sure what all the fancy moving bits and pieces were there for. So I did some more reading on the design of Monsieur/Herr Walschaert(s) design. An interesting history in that he changed his name, dropping the "s" when Belgium became a country. I presume he may never have been a Francophone but you never know. I am still not sure how to attach the eccentric/return crank to the centre axle. Luckily I have two RTR locos with outside Walschaerts valve gear to provide "go-bys".
I also seem to be unable to fill the gap between the etches on the coupling and connecting rods to make them look like solid pieces of steel. My patience does wear thin at times. I do have to remind myself that I am an amateur in all things, the archetype Jack of all trades.
The castings that come with the Finney7 kit are quite superb, by the way.
Paul
I also seem to be unable to fill the gap between the etches on the coupling and connecting rods to make them look like solid pieces of steel. My patience does wear thin at times. I do have to remind myself that I am an amateur in all things, the archetype Jack of all trades.
The castings that come with the Finney7 kit are quite superb, by the way.
Paul
adrian
Flying Squad
I've seen 101 different methods and I've never seen one that I'm totally happy with. They range from simply soldered on to different threaded arrangements but it always seems a bit hit and miss to get the return crank in with the correct offset. When you decided on how you are going to do it then please let us know.
Most of us are amateurs just having a bit of fun. Although coupling rods and conn rods are a little bit of a bête noire for me - as far as I'm concerned the only way to get them looking like solid pieces of steel is to make them from solid pieces of steel. Anything else is a compromise - some people get some damn good results from etched layers but it's still not quite like the real thing.
Focalplane
Western Thunderer
Thank you, Adrian, for your responses to my musings. The perfectionist in me was definitely in a complaining mood last evening!
I will indeed be reporting on my efforts with Mr. Walschaert(s)’(s) valve gear. And some more effort will be expended on the rods but only up to a point - this evening is cut off time.
Paul
I will indeed be reporting on my efforts with Mr. Walschaert(s)’(s) valve gear. And some more effort will be expended on the rods but only up to a point - this evening is cut off time.
Paul
simond
Western Thunderer
I have to say that my impatience generally leads me to Premier Components for rods. It is possible to assemble etches, file, and then draw file them to give a very good representation, but solid rods are so much easier.
The area where this doesn’t work so well is when the flutes “run out” at the ends, of course, but you’ll have to assess whether it passes your perfectionism filter...
Best
Simon
The area where this doesn’t work so well is when the flutes “run out” at the ends, of course, but you’ll have to assess whether it passes your perfectionism filter...
Best
Simon
Focalplane
Western Thunderer
Simon
I agree, I think I will have to accept imperfection! I notice that Warren Shephard includes Premier Components rods in his 43XX class kit.
Meantime the butane search has come to a dead end. All three large bricolages visited this morning only have butane in the Camping Gaz screw top canisters and there is no adapter for the cigarette lighter type of container. They all sell what I already use for my Proxxon gas torch, a butane/propane mix. I have read an on line warning, see below, from Solderpro about using the gas mix, so I am going to email the maker to get clarification.
Meantime, what do other Solderpro users do?
Paul
I agree, I think I will have to accept imperfection! I notice that Warren Shephard includes Premier Components rods in his 43XX class kit.
Meantime the butane search has come to a dead end. All three large bricolages visited this morning only have butane in the Camping Gaz screw top canisters and there is no adapter for the cigarette lighter type of container. They all sell what I already use for my Proxxon gas torch, a butane/propane mix. I have read an on line warning, see below, from Solderpro about using the gas mix, so I am going to email the maker to get clarification.
Meantime, what do other Solderpro users do?
Paul
Focalplane
Western Thunderer
Amazon.fr to the rescue. I just ordered a can of butane refill, primarily used in France by the catering industry for burning sugar, a.k.a. creme brulée! Due to arrive Wednesday. Back to the work bench.
Focalplane
Western Thunderer
I just spent about an hour on the coupling rods and connecting rods. I am quite pleased with the results although solid steel rods would look better, I think. Anyway, here is a photo after I cleaned them with Cif INOX cleaner. This stuff does such a good job on stainless steel sinks, etc., I thought "why not". That and an old electric toothbrush to dig out the grime.
A few not so good areas showing up on the enlargement! I have also been detaching and cleaning up all the NS castings for the motion. Come Wednesday I'll try out the Solderpro 120 and continue the build.
Paul
A few not so good areas showing up on the enlargement! I have also been detaching and cleaning up all the NS castings for the motion. Come Wednesday I'll try out the Solderpro 120 and continue the build.
Paul
Dave Holt
Western Thunderer
Paul,
I think the warning notice is referring to deliberate propane/butane mixes of the 60/40 or 50/50 type which are sold commercially in some continental European countries. Any commercial product described as "butane" should be OK for your torch, even though it will contain a whole range of hydro-carbons, as permitted by the product standards.
Have you fully investigated the camping and caravaning supply site for a suitable adaptor fot the Camping Gaz type cylinders? They seem to have all sorts of adaptors, (some not exactly to the gas suppliers liking).
Dave.
Just seen your latest entries, so this is a bit superfluous, now!
I think the warning notice is referring to deliberate propane/butane mixes of the 60/40 or 50/50 type which are sold commercially in some continental European countries. Any commercial product described as "butane" should be OK for your torch, even though it will contain a whole range of hydro-carbons, as permitted by the product standards.
Have you fully investigated the camping and caravaning supply site for a suitable adaptor fot the Camping Gaz type cylinders? They seem to have all sorts of adaptors, (some not exactly to the gas suppliers liking).
Dave.
Just seen your latest entries, so this is a bit superfluous, now!
Focalplane
Western Thunderer
Thanks, Dave, for your comment which is taken very seriously, after all, I happen to have 4 neighbours sharing the two side walls of my village house! I am hoping the purchase I made will fit the bill, but we will see. The propane/butane mix works perfectly in my Proxxon gas torch but I ain't taking no risks here!
It's interesting that the village has no natural gas supply, so anyone wanting to cook with gas has to have a propane tank or similar in a safe location. When we lived in rural Somerset we had a propane tank for cooking and it worked fine with an American brand gas hob. The reason we had an American hob was that our first choice had been an AGA but the griddle would not work with propane because of a risk of some kind which I cannot remember now. After using the American hob I could never recommend an AGA, anyway, as patriotic as I can be at times.
When it comes to soldering 7mm kits I am beginning to think there is a different set of rules that apply from 4mm scale. It's all very obvious, of course, because of the extra heat required, but for small parts, such as the motion, it is better to think 4mm scale and only bring out the heavy duty irons for those inevitable heat sinks!
Next up will be some more coach painting after an early dinner.
Paul
It's interesting that the village has no natural gas supply, so anyone wanting to cook with gas has to have a propane tank or similar in a safe location. When we lived in rural Somerset we had a propane tank for cooking and it worked fine with an American brand gas hob. The reason we had an American hob was that our first choice had been an AGA but the griddle would not work with propane because of a risk of some kind which I cannot remember now. After using the American hob I could never recommend an AGA, anyway, as patriotic as I can be at times.
When it comes to soldering 7mm kits I am beginning to think there is a different set of rules that apply from 4mm scale. It's all very obvious, of course, because of the extra heat required, but for small parts, such as the motion, it is better to think 4mm scale and only bring out the heavy duty irons for those inevitable heat sinks!
Next up will be some more coach painting after an early dinner.
Paul
Focalplane
Western Thunderer
Amazon delivered the butane gas this afternoon and a quick test proved the wait to be well worthwhile. Needless to say I am busy on other projects not involving a soldering iron so no reason to immediately use it in earnest.
I did start on filing the crossheads etc. this morning and seemed to remove half the casting before fitting came close. I guess it's better this way round but my file holding fingers are a bit numb as a result. More tomorrow and then some soldering of the motion might take place.
I did start on filing the crossheads etc. this morning and seemed to remove half the casting before fitting came close. I guess it's better this way round but my file holding fingers are a bit numb as a result. More tomorrow and then some soldering of the motion might take place.