G3 Liverpool Lion

Discussion in 'G3' started by Jon Nazareth, 25 July 2015.

  1. Jon Nazareth

    Jon Nazareth Western Thunderer

    IMG_0371.JPG IMG_0370.JPG I started this thread in my G3 workbench but thought it a good idea to move or start a new one just for this project. With so many things going on in 'My G3 Workbench' I felt it was getting a bit untidy. T
    I've finished the basic underframe and am now turning my thoughts to the tender. It oozes rivets and I thought that I'd have a go at getting somewhere near the correct number. I've a feeling that this whole project will tax my abilities when it comes to what I can or can't achieve and therefore, as mentioned before, it won't be a true representation of Lion.

    Getting back to the rivets. To buy enough rivets from Scale Hardware to complete the tender I thought too expensive and so I've had a practice go at forming them on this little machine and this scrap piece of brass sheet. I thought that a long row of punched rivets in 20 thou brass would set up a bow but this experiment has shown otherwise. The rivets scale at 1mm across the heads and I made up my own punch and anvil to form these. I think they look quite good :). There was some distortion but I found that I could tweak the brass back to shape quite easily and I will be soldering the sides to brass angle so this should keep everything true, I hope.
    The riveting tool is made by G W Tools tel., 01903 767231 mainly for 4mm and 7mm scales and the sets of anvils and punches reflect this. It does need fixing down but I'll sort that out when I start the job proper.

    Jon
     
  2. oldravendale

    oldravendale Western Thunderer

    George also makes a heavy duty rivet punch with X & Y co-ordinate table which will allow punching rivets in a circle if required. It comes with full instructions of how to achieve this! It's sold as being a step above the 4/7mm model and is a beautifully made and engineered bit of kit.

    It's worth looking at his rollers, nut spinners and, in fact, all his tools. They are all of similar quality, well researched and do the job they are intended to do. Highly recommended, and I've no connection with George other than being a very satisfied customer.

    Brian
     
  3. jamiepage

    jamiepage Western Thunderer

    I will enjoy watching progress, Jon. Could I ask where you sourced the drawing?
    Thank you
    Yours
    Jamie
     
  4. Jon Nazareth

    Jon Nazareth Western Thunderer

    Here are the drivers for my 'Lion' (there are four) and they are dark green but have come out looking as if they are painted black. There should be six other wheels, two trailing and four tender. Unfortunately, I had an aberration and they all came out too small so, had to order six more :(. But, I will be able to use four of them on another project :) .

    Jon



    Jon Nazareth, Today at 16:20 Edit Delete Report
    #134 + Quote Reply
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  5. Jon Nazareth

    Jon Nazareth Western Thunderer

  6. Jon Nazareth

    Jon Nazareth Western Thunderer

    Sorry chaps, I put that Lion post in the wrong place so, have moved it here where it should have gone in the first place.

    Jamie.
    The drawings are Obtainable from the 'Old Locomotive Company' (OLCO), and have been drawn from measurements taken from Lion Herself. I've got quite a few, some I asked to be printed onto A3 which makes it easier for me to read quickly, others are quite large.

    Jon
     
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  7. jamiepage

    jamiepage Western Thunderer

    Thank you, Jon.
     
  8. Jon Nazareth

    Jon Nazareth Western Thunderer

    While waiting for materials to arrive, I decided to have a go at making the water filler for the tender and this is it. What was thought to be a short job turned into one of quite a few hours. It is turned from the solid and all of the rivets are actual rivets which can be seen in the upside down picture. I soft soldered the ones in the rim and it went well until I turned it over and saw the mass of solder that had crept through. I got through quite a few fibreglass re-fills before I got most of it off but in so doing, wore down the heads of the rivets slightly. The etches for the tender sides and rear should be here at the end of the week and I'll post a picture of them.

    Jon
     
  9. Jon Nazareth

    Jon Nazareth Western Thunderer

    Forgot to add the photos...... IMG_0574.JPG IMG_0575.JPG IMG_0579.JPG
     
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  10. JimG

    JimG Western Thunderer

    Jon,

    In similar circumstances, you might find a solder sucker useful

    http://shop.pimoroni.com/products/s...t=1076299245&gclid=CPHa1ozutMcCFevnwgodTMoF2g

    I've got one from my audio wiring days, but it does come in handy when getting rid of excess solder - a bit better than solder wick.

    Jim.
     
  11. Jon Nazareth

    Jon Nazareth Western Thunderer

    Jim
    I forgot to mention that the rivets were held upside down in an aluminium collar. It wasn't until I turned the cap the right way up that I noticed the mass of solder.
    I've never heard of a solder sucker but what a good idea!

    Jon
     
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  12. JimG

    JimG Western Thunderer

  13. unklian

    unklian Western Thunderer

    Very nice work Jon. I may have missed this but where did you get your wheel castings from please ?
     
    Last edited: 22 August 2015
  14. jamiepage

    jamiepage Western Thunderer

    Mark Wood Wheels are showing a G3 set available.
    Actually, I think I recall Jon set that ball rolling.
     
  15. Jon Nazareth

    Jon Nazareth Western Thunderer

    Yes, I did ask Mark Wood to make them up for me and very good they are too and not too bad a price unless you make a mistake as I did and have to order another 6 replacements :(. I now have the etches for the tender sides and back complete with half etched rivets. Because the order was only a small one and to fill the brass sheet, I have two sets, okay if I make any more mistakes.

    Jon
     
    Last edited: 7 August 2018
  16. Jon Nazareth

    Jon Nazareth Western Thunderer

    I need to form three separate tapered copings for the tender of Lion. Can anyone recall a post that shows how this can be done? I though that I would ask before I go wasting too much brass sheet.

    Jon

    IMG_0618-001.JPG
     
  17. unklian

    unklian Western Thunderer

    I have seen flared tender tops ( if that is what you mean) made by slicing up a piece of appropriate diameter thin wall tubing. Not sure if you could get the right size in G3 though.
     
  18. jamiepage

    jamiepage Western Thunderer

    Jon,
    I have only ever formed pre- cut strips of annealed brass or copper over a suitable former (broomstick?), then rivetted along the bottom (as required) then soldered in place. Overlength sides first then fiddle with the rear piece to fit. File corners. Beading after.
    Having said that, I can't pretend to have a great deal of experience but it worked well on the three occasions necessary.
    The split tube method has demonstrably worked for some, but it seemed easier to play around with an easily replaced blank strip rather than try to cut accurate slivers from a tube- for me, at any rate.
    If you fancy a go at the tube method, I'm guessing something like iro 1" dia. would be about right? Macc models stock 1" OD x 20 swg tube, in both brass and copper.
     
  19. Jon Nazareth

    Jon Nazareth Western Thunderer

    Jamie/Ian

    After posting the above in September, I did have a go at bending some strips around a bar of suitable diameter and the formed pieces came out quite well. Since then, the colder weather and other jobs/projects, have stepped up meaning that I haven't done any more to the tender. I'm carrying out the work to the tender in the outside workshop and the heater that I have isn't that good at warming it up so, may not do any more there until the spring.

    Jon
     
  20. Jon Nazareth

    Jon Nazareth Western Thunderer

    I've ordered some dummy bolts for the Sterling tender and while waiting for them to arrive, I did a bit more work on this tender. I'm not sure why I started on the tank before the under-frame was finished neither am I sure of why I painted the driving wheels black and all of the others green :D. Of course, the drivers will have to be re-painted green:rolleyes:.
    I machined the wheels and made some axlebox stays. The stays look a bit big in this picture but they are scale. Talking of peculiarities, when the original wheels were fitted to the under-frame, the timber cross-members had to be notched so that the wheels didn't foul them and that is exactly what I had to do on the model.

    Jon
    IMG_2193.JPG
     
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