German Modelling

Dikitriki

Flying Squad
Simon,

The wheel standards are G1 fine, rather than S1/32. So 40mm BTB.

Roger has got smoke fitted on his 01, but whether he uses it......

Richard
 

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
Worth noting the difference in scale there; the 9f is at 1:43.something, the German locos at 1:45. In reality the 9f is tiny when compared to any of the German Einheitsloks (Standard locos). The comparison stands up with HO BR44 vs 00 9f, despite the smaller scale the 44 is still a bigger model.

I'm familiar with KM1 stuff, having seen it at a number of German shows over the years. It is resolutely splendid for sure, but with no garden, and a lot of time, effort and cash invested in 1:87, I'll stick with what I've got!

Steph
 

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
Andy,
Aah, so more manufacturers are moving away from 1:45, it'd be nice if MOROP could sort out the scale of European 0. But I do understand the problem, we've got the same issue with track gauges with British 0.
And the thought of a Scale7 BR44 strikes me as being rather fun!
Steph
 

Scanlon

Western Thunderer
Fantastic.

Are these the models with the comprehensive smoke effects?

And dare I ask what the wheel back to back measurements are?

Simon

Hello Simon,
The KM1 models do have comprehensive smoke effects. The locos "puff" in accordance with crank positions and drain cocks work.
Roger
 

Dikitriki

Flying Squad
Hi

Having had a crash course on the BR 44s, I've made a list of the things I want to do. First off is the footboards either side of the steam dome. The original had two plastic supports on each of 2 plastic footboards. All I had on my model was two of the supports on one side. Clearly they were vulnerable, so as I couldn't get spares from Markin, I elected to make my own from metal.

P1010513a.jpg

I was able to extract the plastic supports and fabricate brass replacements.

P1010518.JPG

The footboards were made from chequer plate with brass angle round the outside and the supports soldered to the rear in the correct locations so as to engage with the holes in the boiler. I had to drill these out to get out the plastic stubs that had broken off. It was easy enough to feel my way witha hand drill, as I didn't want to put a hole in the boiler proper

P1010519a.jpg

And one side clipped in place.

P1010515a.jpg

Now, a bit of assistance please.

Can anyone with experience of live steam advise me what glues to use that will be resistant to heat. In particular, I may have some things to glue to the cylinder, and I assume that will get quite hot!

Cheers

Richard
 

Dikitriki

Flying Squad
Thank you Richard, I was unaware of those sites. Are all the parts on the first of the sites 1/32 - there's an awful lot of pages on
what seems a somewhat disorganised site.

Richard
 

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
Richard,
You might be surprised, but even the chequerplate and fittings change depending upon whether it's DRG, DR or DB...
Steph
 

Locomodels

Western Thunderer
OK. Now we go from the sublime to the dericulous.
My only excuse is that this is the only German loco that I have, and I thought that it might bring some levity to the posts. #1 DB 050 058-7.jpg #3 DB 050 058-7.jpg

One very small Fleichmann N gauge loco. Only about 140mm over the buffers.
 

Steve Cook

Flying Squad
Saw this on Saturday and thought of you chaps, I believe its an Accucraft BR45 and it ran very well.

Accucraft BR45.jpg

As for glues that will survive on a cylinder cover Richard, I genuinely don't know. Araldite has failed on my Castle and that is just for holding the top of one window frame against the cab front sheet. I'd be tempted to run it and check how hot the covers get before deciding on a glue, if they are plastic you may find they insulate enough to open up the options.

What stock are you tempted with....

Steve
 

Dikitriki

Flying Squad
Saw this on Saturday and thought of you chaps, I believe its an Accucraft BR45 and it ran very well.

As for glues that will survive on a cylinder cover Richard, I genuinely don't know. Araldite has failed on my Castle and that is just for holding the top of one window frame against the cab front sheet. I'd be tempted to run it and check how hot the covers get before deciding on a glue, if they are plastic you may find they insulate enough to open up the options.

What stock are you tempted with....

Steve


Hi Steve,

That acucraft BR45 looks lovely, though I must admit my preference is for the 2-8-2 BR41 rather than the 2-10-2.

As for stock, I seem to have 2 choices; the first is for a block working of hoppers which would look fantastic. I come up with a problem here in that the most appropriate are no longer in production, so it means scouring the second hand markets and German Ebay - an enjoyable experience but an exercise in translation. The second, and probably more likely is a mixed goods, rather like that shown in your picture, but I don't have the resources to rush into buying an expensive goods train, not without parting with some of my 7mm stockpile. So I shall work on tinkering with my BR44 and getting that running before summer's out. Some replacement bits should arrive later, including some complete plastic cylinders from the electric version. It is bits from this that I want to glue to my unrealistic cylinders.

Richard
 

Dikitriki

Flying Squad
Hi,

The part I was least looking forward to building was the front footstep. Because I was retaining the one I had, I had to match it exactly with my scratchbuild, including the 2 mounting points on the underside of the buffer beam.

P1010533a.jpg

P1010538.JPG

P1010539.JPG

P1010532a.jpg

I more or less managed it, and it plugs in in the right place nice and securely.

I have ordered some celly paint in a rattle can mixed to German chassis red - RAL 3002 Karminrot (Carmine Red), and I shall paint it before gluing it in place.

The pictures of the model show the deficiencies in the look of the cylinders, and I am kicking round what I can do to make them better. I do have plastic cylinders from the electric version courtesy of Marklin's spares department, but unfortunately, the tail rod cover was missing from one.

Cheers,

Richard
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
So nice, it shows the plastic one up, g'on you know you need two ;)

For some seriously inspirational Spur 1 stuff visit here http://becasse-weathering.blogspot.co.uk/

Don't blame me if you come away either thoroughly depressed or ravaging the house for stuff to sell to have one.

Nice tip for the RAL red, been looking for that colour for a few weeks now, just need to find the diesel red, turquoise and cream, electric blue and green, TEE red and cream RAL numbers.....after my CSX projects of course :cool:
 

Dikitriki

Flying Squad
For some seriously inspirational Spur 1 stuff visit here http://becasse-weathering.blogspot.co.uk/

Don't blame me if you come away either thoroughly depressed or ravaging the house for stuff to sell to have one.

Hi Mick,

Thanks for the link, it is seriously inspirational. I really want to have a go in similar vein on my 44. The only think holding me back is the effect that steaming it will have on any weathering - ie, would I be wasting my time?

I'm never depressed seeing stuff like this, I regard it as an opportunity to raise my personal bar. You're right though, a major sale is coming up:)

Cheers.

Richard
 
Top