HR Glenbarry class 2-2-2

Sandy Harper

Western Thunderer
I have been asked to build this for a friend. Hmmm some friend! Well I said yes, but it won't be quick!

Peter Tatlows book on HR locomotives is the main source of information on this loco and he has produced a very nice 4mm line drawing of the engine 'Cluny' which I scanned and blew up to 7mm scale and made a number of prints.

First job was to try and work out what sort of inside framing the engine had. There is no detail in the drawing itself so most of it had to be an educated guess and what I think would work.
I then cut two lengths of frame thickness Nickle Silver and soldered them together around their edges.
The outline of the frame drawing was carefully cut from one of the drawing copies and stuck to the N/S with glue. Then it was out with the piercing saw and, four blades later, I had a pair of frames. My wobbly sawing was tidied up with files, the centre axle hole was drilled along with two other holes to fit the temporary screw-in brass spacers to set the chassis up before soldering in the permanent spacers.

The plan is that the centre driving wheel will be fixed as the motor/gearbox will be attached to it. The rear and front wheels will be fitted to Slaters plastic horn blocks and be split-axle pickup with the rear wheel being able to move downward only and the front wheel both up and down.
Although I have shown the motor facing to the rear in the photo I will probably mount it facing the front so that I can pack the firebox with lead.
Once I had tidied up the frames I separated them and attached the temporary spacers. Next job was to measure, cut, fit and solder the permanent spacers.

I have also cut out templates for some other parts of the engine but the difficult bits I will leave until later in the build.

Regards
Sandy

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Yorkshire Dave

Western Thunderer
A Stroudley design?

Would this be a candidate for a - dare I say for O scale and at the risk of banishment!- tender drive :eek:.
 

Sandy Harper

Western Thunderer
One out of three Dave! Built to a design of Alexander Allen with the first two being built by Hawthorns and the rest of the class by Neilsons,
Most were converted to 2-4-0's but Cluny II remained as a single wheeler.

Yes it will be 'O' gauge, I can't see 4mm these days, and the photo shows the loco chassis with the motor drive in it and not the tender.
Regards
Sandy
 

Peter Cross

Western Thunderer
Looks an interesting project. I think I'd of gone for proper 3 point compensation, with slightly more weight on the driver. That would stop any chance of pitching and all the weight would count.
 

Overseer

Western Thunderer
Good timing, I will be very interested to see this progress. I have had my part built model of the 2-2-2T out on the table for the last couple of weeks to work out what I need to do to finish it, only 20+ years on, while trying to get the Shedmaster Models kit of the 4-4-0T (being built as 2-4-0T) completed.

I built the chassis with twin beams at the front and a rocking axle at the rear. The pivot point for the twin beams is closer to the middle axle to get more weight on the driving axle. It runs surprisingly well and has quite a lot of adhesion. No option for tender drive on this one.
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Laurie Griffin built a model of Cluny which was published along with his layout back in the mid 90s.
 

victorianman

Western Thunderer
Although I have yet to build a single driver, I have built outside frame locos so I hope you won't mind a couple of comments.
Re the prototype, some outside frame locos had internal bearings for the driven axle only, so the carrying wheels ran only in the bearings in the outside frames. This makes life difficult regarding the choices one has to make when modelling these locos; please note the comment is for information only, NOT a criticism of the model. Making a normal chassis work is bad enough, let alone having to line up two separate sets of frames as per this type of design.
Secondly, perhaps the weighted tender resting on the draw bar a la Mike Sharman might be worth considering.
Thirdly, nice to see models of locos from this era for a change.
Good luck with the build, and please show us more stages in construction.
 

Sandy Harper

Western Thunderer
Here is a nice portrait of the engine.
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This is my sawing table made from a couple of off-cuts of timber and a surface of wet and dry to help prevent the job slipping.

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It fits into the bench vice which is a good working height for me.

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For cutting straight lines, as on this on this footplate, I use the Olfa cutter and the 'bend and snap' technique. Scribe the line using the olfa cutter two or three times and then place the item in the vice with the scribed line just above the jaws and, using a straight edge, bend the material back and forward until it snaps and dress with a file. The pairs of black lines are an indication of where the bends need to be made over the driving wheel.

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Here is the footplate valance paper template stuck down to a double thickness of metal soldered together and ready to start fretting out with the piercing saw. I will cut to the outside of the line and file back to size.

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Sandy
 

Sandy Harper

Western Thunderer
The vertical black lines are where I will cut first to reduce the lengths of overly long saw cuts


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This shows the process of sawing out enclosed spaces. Drill one or two large holes and pass the blade through and re-fix the blade to the saw frame. Keep the saw vertical use some wax lub. and take it slow and easy turning the work, not the saw. If the blade sticks, stop and let the blade and work reset and gently restart sawing and hopefully you can avoid a broken blade !
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Valances roughed out.
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Valances cleaned up. The total job took me the Archers Omnibus Edition and Desert Island Discs to complete, plus 4 blades!!! Next was splitting the two valances apart and removing the left over glue from the double sided tape. A bit of a chore but no worse than the de-soldering option.
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This evening I bent up the footplate and soldered the valances on. Going ok so far.

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Sandy
 

Sandy Harper

Western Thunderer
As it was dry and mild this morning I took the opportunity to finish off a couple of builds that needed a varnishing.

The pair of Highland Fish Trucks and the North Sunderland Railway Y7

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'Cluny' has received a buffer beam and drag beam today as well as adjustments to the chassis spacers. It is not until you get the footplate built that you can be fully satisfied with the location of the chassis spacers. The front spacer had to be moved back, due to the 'empty' space between the front buffer beam and the valve chests, below the smokebox, and because I had decided to change the location of the motor a central spacer had to be moved from in front of the driving wheels to behind in stead.

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Sandy
 

Sandy Harper

Western Thunderer
Today's fun was mainly the cab assembly. In the end I made a jig for drilling the holes for the 3 posts either side The jig was then used for the separator between the bottom and top side sheets. The top plate was used as a further jig to keep everything vertical and will be modified to make the underside of the roof


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Sandy
 

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Sandy Harper

Western Thunderer
Moving on to the Firebox/boiler I was wondering how to reproduce the distinctive join between them. Quite a curved step between the two.

After much thought and a search around the workshop I came across a length of old, blackened brass half round rod about 3/4mm dia. No idea where it came from but the thought was if I could file it to a quarter, instead of half, it would fit. And it did! The firebox and boiler were rolled up from .018th N/S, the brass 1/4 rod soldered to the front edge of the firebox and the boiler fitted into the firebox. A bit of trimming was required to get everything lined up but I am now happy with it.

Next the smoke box and cylinders. Not looking forward to that job!

Sandy

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