7mm Hydraulic novice seeks enlightenment

[Dog Star]

The keen-eyed amongst WTers may have spotted an interesting feature of JLTRT commercial strategy in that there is a December sale of kits... some kits... including the Western. How much you pay is dependent upon where you buy... ebay / JLTRT web site.

A classic JLTRT white box was collected yesterday - wrapped carefully in brown paper so as to not attract attention from the WT throng wandering around the Reading Show. For "attention" read either encouragement or ribaldry dependent upon your personal view of oil-baths and BR Maroon.

OK - where does one start? Here! Over the past few months I have had some interesting conversations with those who follow the true way and the general opinion, today, is that the JLTRT kit offers the best representation of the Western in 7mm. Yet there is an under-current of voices with comments about how to improve the breed - and that does not include the "open top tourer" version which has graced this forum recently (Laurie sends his condolences, with a tear in his eye).

So, to those of you who have experience of correcting details on the model... or adding details not provided by JLTRT... or making provision for lights / sound / movement, here is your chance to assist the novice.

What can be done / needs to be done to the kit to enhance the model? Not chapter and verse, just a sentence or two to identify the item and a suggestion as to where the comment is expanded upon within WT.

Thanks to you all, Graham

 

[alcazar]

I've seen EXCELLENT threads on the old RM website, with (microscope slide) real galss used for windows, side window apertures made a different shape, cab aqnd directional lighting, working fans, sound and smoke.....

Plus one who made some etches for the side windows, to include the handles to slide them...much better than the original.

Me? I'd LOVE a definitive "how to/what to" on the JLTRT Wessie.

Come on, all you Wessie builders: at least post links to your work?

 

[28ten]

Where to start?
in a random order
Headcode rubbers
Nameboard clips from .3 wire
Slicing the roof in half to ensure the grills line up
Make sure the cab roof and sides align before glueing anything dont assemble the roof and sides as per the instructions or you might have a nasty shock and a step in the sides
Boom boxes and drill the chassis for downward facing speakers
If you want lighting fibre optic
Im cautious about using slide for the glass, optical quality acrylic is much less work.
Split axles
Working fans if you are so inclined
You will need to modify the brake gear to go round tight curves

thats off the top of my head Ian will probably chip in with more, but having built ten of 'em the biggest thing is sorting the roof/side/cab join. it is luck of the draw some are spot on others need a little fiddling.

 

[28ten]

Another couple,
you can sand the angle surround for the cab windows to make it a little less prominent
removing the rainstrip over the cab makes the join between the main components easier

 

[Dog Star]

Jordan, you are correct to suggest that working through early threads is a good idea... that can take some time and I am asking for just an indication as to which threads are going to be fruitful. I tried recently to locate something that I read on RMW about Mk.1s... and I was pretty sure that the required info was in Brian Daniels' thread. The search facility did not provide any likely references so I was left with no choice other than to read the thread. I did find the relevant post about symmetric and asymmetric V-hangers (in reference to Cynric's work on JLTRT truss etches) and that took something like four hours finger work with the page down and next page facilities.

thanks, Graham

 

[28ten]

I think you have come up against the age old problem of blogs vs threads.....
My methods have changed over the years, mainly to simplify and speed the process as much as possible. I also forgot to say that you will want some micro mesh for sanding the body joins, which is the most critical part of the whole build.
Are you using ABC diesel gearboxes?

 

[Dog Star]

I also forgot to say that you will want some micro mesh for sanding the body joins.

I use wet-n-dry "wet" for such things normally, working through 600, 800, 1000 to 1200 grit. Why do you recommend micro-mesh? What grit numbers do you use? Hannants or some other supplier?

regards, Graham

 

[28ten]

I got them at an IPMS show but you need to go down to 6000 wet sanding over the joins. I wouldnt use 600 its too course and marks the resin.

 

[Dog Star]

you need to go down to 6000 wet sanding over the joins. I wouldnt use 600 its too coarse and marks the resin.

Ah, useful words of wisdom there. So what grade of micro-mesh do you consider to be the starting point for the bodyside joins?

regards, Graham

 

[28ten]

1500, if you use squadron it sands easily, I assume milliput is the same. any gaps over 5 thou fill it with plasticard strip

 

[Dog Star]

I use wet-n-dry "wet" for such things normally; working through 600, 800, 1000 to 1200 grit.

I wouldnt use 600 its too coarse and marks the resin.

So what grade of micro-mesh do you consider to be the starting point for the bodyside joins?

1500

How about this offer as a starting point. If one scrolls down the page, there is a conversion table of wet-n-dry grit size to micro-mesh numbering. My starting point of 600 for W&D is 1800 for micro-mesh...

Never mind, I shall source some micro mesh as we can have only the best for a Wezzie.

regards, Graham

 

[28ten]

the 400 wet and dry I have used is nothing like the 1500 micro mesh