Javelin kits and s7

Michael D

Western Thunderer
Dear All,
Can anyone give any comments on the ease of building Javelin loco kits to scale7 ?
The one I'm thinking about is the NLR 0-6-0 Park tank loco,
Also has anyone any experience of the old Peter K scratchbuilding aid etches that are available now blown up to 7mm ? The NLR 4-4-0 tank in particular?
Thanks in advance
Best Michael
 

Michael D

Western Thunderer
All quiet on this then?
So no ones built a Javelin loco kit?
Just wondered what they are like as there's so much discussion on various other kits?????
Regards
Michael
 

Overseer

Western Thunderer
I have been thinking about scratch building one in S7 and have several drawings and have been collecting photographs. I haven't seen the Javelin kit but it looks good as a finescale model in Ressaldar's thread - 7mm - Ressaldar - NLR Park 0-6-0t. The underframe looks to be quite simple so shouldn't be a problem to build in S7.
 

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
Michael,
They were David Andrews designed, so you can consider them to have many of the same characteristics. I think they're generally regarded as being exceedingly buildable, although I've capitulated in my battle with one of his E1 kits. Not so much a problem with the kit as me wanting to fit inside motion and compensation which the kit didn't make any allowances for. The body went together well and I made a reasonable fist of the tender, including a whole host of silly details.

Steph
 

Ian@StEnochs

Western Thunderer
All quiet on this then?
So no ones built a Javelin loco kit?
Just wondered what they are like as there's so much discussion on various other kits?????
Regards
Michael


Michael,

You can build any kit to S7 standards, it just depends on how committed to the final model you are and how close to actual scale you want your model to be!

All kits designed for 0 gauge have compromised dimensions to fit with the narrower than scale gauge and wheel standards. To build in S7 you have to work out how to un-make these compromises! You need to look out for splashers made to a larger radius than scale to accommodate oversize flanges and some designers stretch the wheelbase for the same reason.

Inside cylindered locomotives are probably the easiest to tackle and you may be able to get away with using the original frames and making new spacers giving the correct spacing. Some of the more thoughtful kit makers include S7 spacers in their kits, however they tend to just be an extra 1mm wider showing that the designers know little about the standard.

Outside cylinder locos can be a bit more difficult because the motion brackets need to be fixed to the frames and thus stretched to reach narrow 0 gauge dimensions. Etched components are easily remade or cut back but where nice castings are supplied it can be a bit more complex and sometimes easier starting from scratch.

If you only take one piece of advice I suggest that you obtain a good accurate drawing of your prototype and compare the kit dimensions against it before assembling anything.

Ian.
 

Lancastrian

Western Thunderer
Michael,
They were David Andrews designed, so you can consider them to have many of the same characteristics. I think they're generally regarded as being exceedingly buildable, although I've capitulated in my battle with one of his E1 kits. Not so much a problem with the kit as me wanting to fit inside motion and compensation which the kit didn't make any allowances for. The body went together well and I made a reasonable fist of the tender, including a whole host of silly details.

Steph
Oh great, I have a D1 and an E1 to build !

I believe the Black 5 kit is/was regarded as the best of any available.

Ian
 

S7BcSR

Western Thunderer
Michael
Whilst I have no experience of building with the Peter K etches blown up to 7mm standard I would be very wary that everything fitted as was expected as my other experiences - and, apparently, those of some on this forum - have shown that some parts may need to be recut to fit if you require an accurate model. I would want to check some of the etches to ensure that the chassis and wheelbase are correct.

As I said I have no experience of these particular etches but I would be aware that there can be differences.

Rob
 
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