Jigs And Gauges For Track Making

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
A fellow S7 modeller has asked me to make the track for his LNWR station.... not only is there a lot of track to be built, I have yet to find a straight bit anywhere on the templates. The construction of the layout is covered in the thread "Hartley Hills - LNWR circa 1910".

Trackmaking is easy, almost like building a plastic kit in 2D. OK, there is the small matter of setting out the line and purchasing / making of templates and that can be time-consuming, however getting sleeper and timber positions on paper is not difficult so we can start. There are several suppliers of consumables for 7mm track making including Slaters, Exactoscale, C&L and Peco - there may be others, those are the companies which are known to me. Each of those suppliers offers rail, chairs and sleepers - my preference is for Exactoscale products from whom I buy ABS chairs and ply sleepers. I have used C&L chairs and I find that the Exactoscale parts are more consistent in performance.

There is a pile of small plastic mouldings beside a stack of cut-to-size trees on the workbench, what next? As a minimum track making needs a method of setting the rails to gauge and of doing so in a repeatable and consistent manner. Enter the track gauges, preferably a few of the gauge for plain track so that several chairs can be affixed at a time, thankfully one of the check rail gauges ought to do. Unless you are modelling a section of the railway across an Australian desert then you will need to consider diverging rails and that means turnouts. Exactoscale and C&L supply some machined /assembled parts for switches and crossings or you can make your own, the price of one set of machined parts is comparable to the price of one Vee filing jig (S7 Group Stores)... so buy a jig and practice the art.

I have built several turnouts and quite a length of plain track over the past few years and repetitive tasks soon become boring - jigs for reducing the time to perform such tasks more than pay for the initial effort taken to make such fixtures. Paul Penn-Sayers (Locomodels on this forum) has been most helpful in taking my initial suggestions and producing something which reaps rewards - some of his works appears in my following posts, watch out for the check chair cutting jig, the rail cutting jig and the timber cutting jig.

I have written other topics and/or threads about my track making escapades (here, elsewhere and "over there") where those writings are about the result rather than the method. In those posts I have often mentioned the jigs and gauges which are available from the S7 Group Stores, the availability of such items is covered in another thread. A recent conversation with another WT member suggested to me that maybe a description of such jig and gauges would be of interest.

As there is much to cover I shall write and post this topic in several parts:-
[1] jigs and gauges for building small quantities of permanent way;
[2] jigs for plain line track;
[3] jigs for those who are about to build Kings Cross or Paddington or Basilica Fields.

To start, a photograph of the range of jigs and gauges which I use regularly.

Tracks and Gauges
track-tools.jpg
Vee filing and assembly jigs to top LHS, crossing assembly jigs to bottom RHS, check chair cutting jig to top centre, check rail gauge to top RHS and sprung track gauge to centre RHS.

Vee filing and assembly jig
vee-filing-jig.jpg
The bottom jig shows the face which is used to file the tapers on the point/splice rails, to form the wing rail and to hold the vee during soldering. The top jig shows the face which is used to file the housing, in the point rail, for the splice rail. The plate and screw to the RHS is the clamp plate which holds the rails whilst filing the tapers and housing. The lower jig is marked "1 - 7" for making a vee of 1:7 angle.

Common crossing assembly jig- 1
crossings1.jpg
The top jig, in paxolin, shows the slots for holding the vee and the two wing rails of a common crossing. The jig can be used also for creating the obtuse crossing of compounds and diamonds. The bottom jig, in Aluminium, shows how the separate rails are loaded into the jig and then secured into a common crossing by brass strips. Whilst the S7 Group manufactured the assembly jigs in Aluminium originally the current products are made in paxolin (easier to solder rails in paxolin jigs than rails in Aluminium jigs).

Common crossing assembly jig - 2
crossings2.jpg
The top jig, in Aluminium, shows how the metal is machined to form the spacing strips which hold the wing rails and vee at the correct separation. Underneath the jig is the same common crossing as in the previous photograph, this time showing the head of the rail.

Track gauges
track-gauges.jpg
The left hand gauge is for setting the check rails, check rails are gauged from the common crossing - hence the need for the flat on the outer edge of the gauge, the flat rests on the vee of the crossing when gauging check rails. The right hand gauge is for setting the "track gauge", 33mm in the case of S7 track. My track gauges have been modified by Paul Penn-Sayers (Locomodels on this forum)... the outer washers have been turned with a 1:20 taper so that the gauges hold the rails at an angle which matches the chair mouldings. I understand that S7 Group Stores may be about to supply these gauges with the same modification.

Check chair cutting gauge
check-chair-fence.jpg
A simple cutting gauge which was developed by Paul Penn-Sayers - the photograph shows the prototype jig and is the basis of a recent "how to make" article in the S7 Newsletter. The upright strip of metal forms a fence to facilitate cutting a plain line chair - the metal thickness is half of the scale dimension for the check rail clearance. A plain line chair is threaded onto a piece of rail and then pushed through the hole in the upright. The part of the chair which protrudes through the fence is then cut off. One of the cut chairs is put on the running rail, one of the cut chairs is put on the check rail.... and then the cut chair on the check rail is placed against the cut chair on the running rail. A splash of Butanone joins the chairs and the rails are held at the correct separation for S7.

regards, Graham
 
Last edited:

iploffy

OC Blue Brigade
It's a very interesting topic. I am led to believe that the jigs are no longer available as I want one to begin building my own PWay


Ian
 

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
I am led to believe that the jigs are no longer available...
Ian
What an interesting comment and I would like to know where it came from.

I have written in the topic about building the LNWR layout that some of the crossing angles are not "integer" numbers... most are 1:8 with a smattering of 1 in 7.5, 1 in 8.25 and 1 in 8.5. Whilst I am confident that I can file the point and splice rails to the required angles I am less sure about assembling the crossing "au naturel", so I called the S7 Stores last week and requested a quotation for some "one-of" crossing assembly jigs. As far as I know there is no problem in supply of the jigs.

regards, Graham
 

JimG

Western Thunderer
Thank you for posting this, I guess the crossing jigs are CNC'd?

I don't know if they are. I remember Dick Ganderton showing me his milling machine set up to machine some a few years ago and I can't remember any CNC gear on the mill.

Jim.
 

iploffy

OC Blue Brigade
What an interesting comment and I would like to know where it came from.

I have written in the topic about building the LNWR layout that some of the crossing angles are not "integer" numbers... most are 1:8 with a smattering of 1 in 7.5, 1 in 8.25 and 1 in 8.5. Whilst I am confident that I can file the point and splice rails to the required angles I am less sure about assembling the crossing "au naturel", so I called the S7 Stores last week and requested a quotation for some "one-of" crossing assembly jigs. As far as I know there is no problem in supply of the jigs.

regards, Graham
I read it on another forum that a supplier of crossing and vee jigs in 'O' has dried up, I naturally presume the crossing jigs are the same in S7.

but I could be wrong
 

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
After the recent comments, about, the availability of the jigs and gauges that I have described I have spoken to the S7 Group Stores Officer and thereafter created a separate topic on the range of jigs and gauges from "the stores". The details are here.
 

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
I don't know if they are. I remember Dick Ganderton showing me his milling machine set up to machine some a few years ago and I can't remember any CNC gear on the mill.

Jim.

I spoke to Paul Stokes yesterday - Dick machined all of the aluminium assembly jigs. The paxolin jigs have been sourced elsewhere and are CNC machined.

regards, Graham
 

JimG

Western Thunderer
I spoke to Paul Stokes yesterday - Dick machined all of the aluminium assembly jigs. The paxolin jigs have been sourced elsewhere and are CNC machined.

Graham,

At least I was partially correct. :) It was some years ago when I was in Dick's workshop and saw the setup and I began to think that things might have changed since then.

Jim.
 

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
From the original post....

quote
As there is much to cover I shall write and post this topic in several parts:-
[1] jigs and gauges for building small quantities of permanent way;
[2] jigs for plain line track;
[3] jigs for those who are about to build Kings Cross or Paddington or Basilica Fields.
unquote

Previously in this thread I have covered the jigs and gauges which are available generally from the Scaleseven Stores (check chair cutting jig excepted). In this post I shall cover jigs for plain line track.... or rather the construction of one such jig for whilst I have built several track jigs over the years those jigs are all of a muchness and differ only in the rail length and number of sleepers.

This photo shows all of the parts for one jig - plus the magic ingredient. Subsequent photos show how the parts are assembled into one jig, in this case the jig is for a 30'0" length of track with 10 of 10" wide sleepers per rail length, a typical LNWR track arrangement of circa 1890 as is required for Hartley Hills.

the-parts.jpg

First step in the construction is to stick the spacer support to the assembly jig base. The spacer support is 4mm MDF and is cut to sleeper width less 10mm. The spacer is aligned on the rear face of the jig.

spacer-support.jpg

Second step is to stick the end and side fences to the assembly base. The pine strips are 12mm or 15mm square section dependent upon the thickness of the spacer support strip and sleepers. The ideal thickness of the end fences is such that a ruler placed over the strips can bear against the top of first rail (with clearance for the chairs).

end-and-side-fences.jpg

Now for the boring tedious part, cutting the spacers whose purpose is to locate the individual sleepers at the correct spacing as per prototype practice. The photo shows ten sleepers and eleven spacers in the jig - nothing is stuck as yet - this is to ensure that the clearance between spacers and sleepers is sufficent that the sleepers can be slid out after rails and chairs have been bonded to the sleepers.

sleepers-and-spacers.jpg

This photo shows the removable side fence, this pine strip holds the sleepers against the opposing fence during fixing of chairs. The magic ingredient makes an appearance for the first time, lengths of 4mm anodised Aluminium round rod in use as a locating dowel. Yes, knitting needles come in metric diameters and can be found as Aluminium rod (the needle in the photo are "Aero", other needles are available). The off-centre dowel is just that, off-centre and acting as a fooling pin to prevent the side fence being used incorectly.

removable-side-fence.jpg

This photo shows the rail pegs... and here I admit to cheating. The purpose of the pegs is to allow the first rail to be placed correctly relative to the centre line of the sleepers (hence why the side fence holds the sleepers tight to the opposing fence). I make up a trial length of track without the pegs, the rails (and chairs) being set in place by use of a vernier (or inside calipers). Once I am happy that the rails of the trial length are equidistant relative to the sleeper centre line then I drill holes in the spacers for the rail pegs and press the pegs into the assembly base (both operations using a pillar drill). Whilst I use 4mm needles for the locating dowels of the side strip the pegs are made from 2mm needles. Magic.

rail-pegs(1).jpg

Use of the jig for assembly of GWR 32'0" track is described in the Basilica Fields journal.

regards, Graham
 

Steve Cook

Flying Squad
Cheers for posting this up Graham, always nice to see how others make things :thumbs:
I do like to see jigs and tools that others use and you have answered the question I was going to ask "How do you ensure that the rails / chairs are placed in the correct location on the sleepers?", thank you :)
 

Rob Pulham

Western Thunderer
Thanks for posting Graham, I know that you have described it to me in the past but there is no substitute for seeing it with you own eyes:thumbs::thumbs:
 

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
"How do you ensure that the rails / chairs are placed in the correct location on the sleepers?", thank you :)

This question has rather jumped the gun for I intend to add a post which shows the sequence of constructing a length of track - and at the same time to show how to deal with curves (as requested by Rob Pulham). My method of constructing and laying track had been derived from working with Exactoscale templates where the templates incorporate the centre lines of the main and diverging routes - in effect I lay track and turnouts to centrelines (drawn on the baseboard or formation).

So the sleepers get marked with centre lines and the rails are "centred" thereon. The pegs are placed so that the first rail-with-chairs is pushed against the pegs with a ruler resting on the end fence strips (see previous note about selecting the thickness of the strip) and secured. The second rail-with-chairs is then set from the first rail by the use of S7 track gauges. Hence my comment about trial assembly with verniers to ensure that the assembled track is centre prior to drilling the spacers for the pegs.

regards, Graham
 

Steve Cook

Flying Squad
Hi Graham
I thought you had already answered my question, hence the "and you have answered the question I was going to ask " bit which preceeded your quote above :)

Still, I appreciate the extra detail you've gone into and I'll let you carry on unprompted :cool:

All the best
Steve
 

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
From the original post....

quote
As there is much to cover I shall write and post this topic in several parts:-
[1] jigs and gauges for building small quantities of permanent way;
[2] jigs for plain line track;
[3] jigs for those who are about to build Kings Cross or Paddington or Basilica Fields.
unquote

Parts 1 and 2 of this topic have been posted earlier, this post covers the jigs which enable quicker production of some of the core components of plain track and turnout construction. I am pleased to acknowledge the help of Paul Penn-Sayers in regard to these jigs... I described the problem, we evolved a design over a cup or three of Earl Grey and then Paul produced the goods.

The first photo shows a jig for cutting strip material into sleepers and timbers. The basis of the design is a channel in which slides a moveable stop, the projecting lead screw (LHS) adjusts the distance between the moveable stop and the cutting slot (RHS). The position of the moveable stop can be fixed by tightening the allen screw in the top surface of the stop.

wood1.jpg

The second photo shows the cutting slot at the RH end of the jig. The brass strip is used to set the gap so that a Xacto razor saw blade slides comfortably in the slot and without excessive clearance.

wood3.jpg

The third photo shows the rail cutting jig. My interests are GWR circa 1900 and that means rail lengths of 32'0", 44'6" and 45'0". The requirements of Basilica Fields includes 27'0" and 30'0" rail lengths whilst Hartley Hills introduces 30'0" and 60'0" rails. To get each of those rail lengths into one jig has required that the jig is double ended, some rail lengths are measured from one end of the jig whilst other rail lengths are meaured from the other end of the jig. The brass button (centre) is moveable to any of the holes on the longitudinal centre line and sets the rail length from the outer end of the jig.

rail1.jpg

This photo shows several "peg holes" and the peg / securing bolt.

rail2.jpg

This photo shows a natty "T" headed bolt which secures the brass clamp plate to the jig - this is the means by which a rail is secured before cutting to length.

rail3.jpg

Paul is another S7 modeller who contributes to WT (Locomodels), any questions about the construction of these jigs can be posted here and will be answered (hopefully) by Paul.

regards, Graham
 

Len Cattley

Western Thunderer
From the original post....

quote
As there is much to cover I shall write and post this topic in several parts:-
[1] jigs and gauges for building small quantities of permanent way;
[2] jigs for plain line track;
[3] jigs for those who are about to build Kings Cross or Paddington or Basilica Fields.
unquote

Previously in this thread I have covered the jigs and gauges which are available generally from the Scaleseven Stores (check chair cutting jig excepted). In this post I shall cover jigs for plain line track.... or rather the construction of one such jig for whilst I have built several track jigs over the years those jigs are all of a muchness and differ only in the rail length and number of sleepers.

This photo shows all of the parts for one jig - plus the magic ingredient. Subsequent photos show how the parts are assembled into one jig, in this case the jig is for a 30'0" length of track with 10 of 10" wide sleepers per rail length, a typical LNWR track arrangement of circa 1890 as is required for Hartley Hills.

View attachment 8067

First step in the construction is to stick the spacer support to the assembly jig base. The spacer support is 4mm MDF and is cut to sleeper width less 10mm. The spacer is aligned on the rear face of the jig.

View attachment 8068

Second step is to stick the end and side fences to the assembly base. The pine strips are 12mm or 15mm square section dependent upon the thickness of the spacer support strip and sleepers. The ideal thickness of the end fences is such that a ruler placed over the strips can bear against the top of first rail (with clearance for the chairs).

View attachment 8069

Now for the boring tedious part, cutting the spacers whose purpose is to locate the individual sleepers at the correct spacing as per prototype practice. The photo shows ten sleepers and eleven spacers in the jig - nothing is stuck as yet - this is to ensure that the clearance between spacers and sleepers is sufficent that the sleepers can be slid out after rails and chairs have been bonded to the sleepers.

View attachment 8070

This photo shows the removable side fence, this pine strip holds the sleepers against the opposing fence during fixing of chairs. The magic ingredient makes an appearance for the first time, lengths of 4mm anodised Aluminium round rod in use as a locating dowel. Yes, knitting needles come in metric diameters and can be found as Aluminium rod (the needle in the photo are "Aero", other needles are available). The off-centre dowel is just that, off-centre and acting as a fooling pin to prevent the side fence being used incorectly.

View attachment 8071

This photo shows the rail pegs... and here I admit to cheating. The purpose of the pegs is to allow the first rail to be placed correctly relative to the centre line of the sleepers (hence why the side fence holds the sleepers tight to the opposing fence). I make up a trial length of track without the pegs, the rails (and chairs) being set in place by use of a vernier (or inside calipers). Once I am happy that the rails of the trial length are equidistant relative to the sleeper centre line then I drill holes in the spacers for the rail pegs and press the pegs into the assembly base (both operations using a pillar drill). Whilst I use 4mm needles for the locating dowels of the side strip the pegs are made from 2mm needles. Magic.

View attachment 8072

Use of the jig for assembly of GWR 32'0" track is described in the Basilica Fields journal.

regards, Graham


I would like to make this jig for 60' rails, but what is the measurements of the spacers between the sleepers? also does anybody make this jig as I have no way of doing this?

Len
 
Top