JLTRT Class 44 Build

[Andrew Thompson]

Brian I may be daft but not that daft .

My mistake should have only referred to the main wheels but thanks any way.

Andrew

 

[Brian Daniels]

I did think that Andrew but you did mention the Slaters wheels. But believe me some people building these kits do need a bit of basic help after seeing some of the results!

 

[Andrew Thompson]

Brian

I've reread your post again and missed the bit about the vac pipe . Will take the appropriate action thanks very much .
NB
Do you use any springing between bogie frame and body or create some kind of bolster .I was thinking of a large rubber washer ie like a large tap washer .
Had to significantly reduce the pony truck springs originally had cut in half but this was lifting the forward main wheels of the track unless weight was added . So reduced again and resoldered now sits alright but will see at the weekend how it runs as visiting PW Leamington Spa .

Andrew

 

[Andrew Thompson]

A bit more progress .Body primed will post more later re other parts of the build .

Andrew

 

[iploffy]

Brian

I've reread your post again and missed the bit about the vac pipe . Will take the appropriate action thanks very much .
NB
Do you use any springing between bogie frame and body or create some kind of bolster .I was thinking of a large rubber washer ie like a large tap washer .
Had to significantly reduce the pony truck springs originally had cut in half but this was lifting the forward main wheels of the track unless weight was added . So reduced again and resoldered now sits alright but will see at the weekend how it runs as visiting PW Leamington Spa .

Andrew

I have had a pig of a job trying to get the class 40 to run, the slightest bit of undulation or twisting and the pony wheel comes off the track. I am going to take a leaf out of Heljan's book and make a pony truck sprung from the bogie itself and weight the locomotive and bogie as well, there is plenty of room under the resin casting. I asked MTH to remove some of the coils from the front spring and ease the bogies up and down movement and it made no difference at all. It stems from the fact JLTRT have tried to remain faithful to the principles of the original but not copied the originals principles, i.e. allowing the driving wheel horns to move up and down in the horn glides, as there is no secondary suspension there is no give in the bogie at all, to compensate for this the powerful spring on the pony truck is held in a block which slides from side to side, not a very good idea me thinks. I hopefully will see MTH tomorrow and will be able to carry on with the conversion.
Results to be posted

Tiffin Master

 

[Andrew Thompson]

I had similar problems in that although springs cut in half (per Mr D of Oxford ) still to strong and lifted front driving wheels of the track .Reduced further and re soldered the box and has run perfectly since and no additional weight . Possibly I was just lucky . I would say persevere as and see Mr D posts or flicker site .



Andrew

 

[Andrew Thompson]

Just looked at those photos looks like some joint filling will be required between body and roof near the cab.

Andrew

 

[alcazar]

Can all of D1-10 be done? Or are D9/10 excluded because of differing bodyside grilles?

 

[Andrew Thompson]

yes JLTRT can provide separate etch grills .

Andrew

 

[Andrew Thompson]

Friend has now decided on which peak D9 . He had already supplied revised etches for the grills and I thought these had been provided via JLTRT however these were etched by another friend (sorry to mislead you jeff). I have now attached with super glue and will give them a quick coat of Halfords primer before proceeding with the green top coat .
The upper roof has been painted and a base yellow sprayed as foundation to the correct top coat .I had previously found out some years ago that rail yellow was a difficult colour to get a even coverage without some base colour .In the past I used a cellulose car spray signal yellow as a base which enabled you to correct any errors when applying your enamel top coat . Sadly of the shelf cellulose no longer available .

The last photo is what we are aiming for .











Andrew

 

[Andrew Thompson]

Out of the paint shop . Some tidying up to do especially on the nose to hide the base lines . But otherwise very pleased as its some years since I used an air brush .
Paint was :
Loco Green Precision ( Air Brush, quick drying thinners . Ratio 1 Thinners to 3 Paint )
Roof Grey Rail Match (Rattle can)
Warning yellow Rail Match (Rattle Can)

I forgot I was using a duel action air brush and couldn't understand why no paint flow when I pressed down so added a bit more thinners and then realized I needed to throttle back .Doh




Andrew

 

[SteadyRed]

Hi Andrew

I wasn't sure about the etched side grills, somehow they just didn't look right, but with paint on them they are much, much better.

Nice build, following this with interest as 44009 would be my choice as it had a replacement nose so had a centre headcode panel at one end & discs at the other. Although much later in its life.

Dave

 

[Andrew Thompson]

I know what you mean but as I am building this for a friend this is the one he wanted as something different .

Andrew

 

[40126]

Nice build, following this with interest as 44009 would be my choice as it had a replacement nose so had a centre headed panel at one end & discs at the other. Although much later in its life.

Any pics or links to show this ?, Dave.

Steve

 

[SteadyRed]

Any pics or links to show this ?, Dave.

Steve

Hopefully this will work:

https://www.flickr.com/search/?q=44009+toton

Dave

 

[Andrew Thompson]

Peak still progressing , Having looked again at those base lines between the green and yellow bit the bullet and did a complete paint strip .Repainted but the air brush played up so re stripped again . I have re applied primer care of JLTRT (etch primer) but before proceeding further what is the considered wisdom of the group re painting in green then applying the warning yellow as only a small area (see post 30) or as previous yellow first mask up and then the green . I only ask as Mr D of oxford indicted that on his latest Western he had done the main body colour first and was then applying the yellow.

Will post some pictures of progress tomorrow.

Andrew

 

[40126]

.......Nice build, following this with interest as 44009 would be my choice as it had a replacement nose so had a centre headcode panel at one end & discs at the other. Although much later in its life.

Dave

@Andrew Thompson, Do JLTRT supply different cabs if wanting to do the above ?, Panel at one end & discs at the other.

Steve

 

[Andrew Thompson]

Steve
Yes this was an option but my friend decided to go with as an as built version .

Andrew

 

[isleofthanet]

Peak still progressing , Having looked again at those base lines between the green and yellow bit the bullet and did a complete paint strip .Repainted but the air brush played up so re stripped again . I have re applied primer care of JLTRT (etch primer) but before proceeding further what is the considered wisdom of the group re painting in green then applying the warning yellow as only a small area (see post 30) or as previous yellow first mask up and then the green . I only ask as Mr D of oxford indicted that on his latest Western he had done the main body colour first and was then applying the yellow.

Will post some pictures of progress tomorrow.

Andrew

Andrew,

I usually do the yellow first but it depends on the shape for masking and how much 'clutter' there is !

Alan

 

[Andrew Thompson]

Alan

Thanks considered opinion is as you say ,dependent on what's the easier to mask rather than light colours followed by the darker colours. So in this instance yellow warning panel first ( hand paint the marker lights after ),roof and then main body colour . Once the weather improves in this neck of the woods will get some paint on the loco .
(pictures to follow)

Andrew