7mm The LNER 06 (MOK 8F) Build is No More

[Rob Pulham]

I thought I would start a separate thread for this one rather than jumping about on my WB thread until the A3 is finished then i will post my next project on there.

This is the first sheet of etches.



And a couple of shots of progress to date compensation beams and horn guides (the horn guides still need the tab's removing and cleaning up, that's tonight's first task

 

[Locomodels]

horn guides (the horn guides still need the tab's removing and cleaning up, that's tonight's first task

Hello Rob,

That is an interesting statement, do you not need the tabs to locate the hornguides in the frames.  On the 4MT tank the hornguides, though they do not have a backing plate, tab into the frames which also have an etched slot for them to fit into.  :scratch:

 

[Rob Pulham]

Hi Paul,

I can see where you are coming from and thanks for raising it.

There are four tabs on the raised front section that are twisted off and cleaned up once located through the backing plate and having soldered the outsides of the horn guide. Leaving the top one and two more that haven't been folded around yet on the backing plate to locate the horn guide as you suggest.

I have put highlighted the ones that are removed in red on the attached photo and the ones that are to retain the horn guide to the frame in blue to illustrate what I mean better than I can describe it.



I haven't got to cleaning them up yet as I go on holiday next week and my good lady has had me sorting things for packing.[/attach]

 

[28ten]

Thats the same as the 14xx. I believe both were earlier kits in the range

 

[Rob Pulham]

Thats the same as the 14xx. I believe both were earlier kits in the range

I did wonder if that was the reason that they were not the same as Paul's kit.

 

[Dikitriki]

Hi

I came across this pic of my 8F while looking for something else and thought I'd add it to the thread ;D

I really must finish it off, but Heyside needs more small locos rather than brutes like this  Perhaps after Manchester.....

It's a great kit. I reckoned it was the best steam outline kit on the market until the 80000 tank came out.

Cheers

Richard

 

[Rob Pulham]

A welcome addition to the thread. Thanks for posting it Richard.

I hope that I will be able to post something similar in the not too distant future!

 

[Rob Pulham]

A bit more done. The compensation beams are in place along with the horn guides. The horn guides are held in place by another set of tabs (as discussed earlier) and there were half etched locating points on the frames to locate the mini bearings.

Since these were taken I have soldered the horn guides and cleaned them up.

 

[Rob Pulham]

Richard, a question if I may? what motor gearbox did you use on yours?

I am using the ABC unit that Brian Clapperton recommended, a Mini7E which is an end mounted replacement for the RG7 I have reached the bit where the instructions quote that it is designed for the RG7 but that you need to remove some of the firebox base if using a Mashima and 40:1 gear set. I am not but I am unsure as to whether I will need to remove anything and thought I would ask before going any further. 

 

[Ressaldar]

Hi Rob,

some neat work there mate - keep it up. As regards the Mini 7E, does it not have a Maxon fitted? as the Q1 that I recently built, had the motor/gearbox supplied by MOK and the label said Q1/8F and it is an ABC unit. If so, I would have thought that it would not require any fettling of the firebox.

cheers

Mike

 

[Dikitriki]

Richard, a question if I may? what motor gearbox did you use on yours?

I am using the ABC unit that Brian Clapperton recommended, a Mini7E which is an end mounted replacement for the RG7 I have reached the bit where the instructions quote that it is designed for the RG7 but that you need to remove some of the firebox base if using a Mashima and 40:1 gear set. I am not but I am unsure as to whether I will need to remove anything and thought I would ask before going any further.

Hi Rob

I did use the end on RG7. I wouldn't again, although it's good enough that I don't feel motivated to change it. It doesn't appear that I had to do any work on the ashpan to fit the motor, though I do think I had to file off a bit of the driving wheel spring mounting and clearance for the rear pair of compensation beams before I fitted the ashpan.

Richard

 

[Rob Pulham]

Thanks Gents, much appreciated.

It does have a Maxon motor - picture attached. So I feel a bit more relaxed about not having to modify too much and I will go ahead and see where it leads

 

[Rob Pulham]

I just looked at this and realised I hadn't attached the photo of the motor/gearbox :-[

 

[Ressaldar]

Hi Rob,

it is the same unit as in the Q1

cheers

Mike

 

[Rob Pulham]

Cheers Mike,
That's a relief. I built up the lower firebox last night without modifying it, based on earlier posts from Richard and yourself with a healthy dose of fingers crossed

 

[7mmMick]

You're really motoring along with this one Rob, i'm quietly watching the progress and enjoying it very much 

ATB Mick

 

[Rob Pulham]

Richard, another question if I may? I have been beavering away preparing the chassis for going together and I have come across a reference - "Solder one off 10ba nut to the front recesses of each chassis frame 100 & 101. These are to be used for cylinder retaining screws" and I cannot for the life of me find the recesses referred to.

Can you point me in the right direction?

 

[Rob Pulham]

Further to my last post and query of Richard, a couple of pictures of where I am at and one highlighting where I think the offending nuts should go. :scratch:

 

[Dikitriki]

Hi Rob

I'm in sunny St Ives at the moment, so I don't have access to the 8F. I won't be able to reply until next week I'm afraid.

You will be pleased to know my portable workbench came with me, and I'm about to solder the chassis sideframes of a Chowbent Fowler 2-6-2 together ;D

Richard

 

[Dikitriki]

Rob

I think you are right. Have a look at the cylinders. I seem to remember that there is a backing plate from which the front and back fold up. This backing plate hooks over the chassis sideframes and then has a screw location. If your screw holes line up, you've got it right. The hole is at the top so you still have access to the screw when the cylinder wrapping is on.

Use the narrower cylinders, the ones on the main fret are unnecessarily wide.

Yours

Richard