7mm LNER N1 0-6-2T Ace Products Kit

[Scanlon]

Just to amplify what Richard said earlier, he modified my chassis jig as described and I always build both sets of coupling rods and mount them on either ends of the "axles". Very occasionally I have to make minor adjustments but that is usually due to my terrible soldering. Enjoy the build, as Brian D and I can testify kits from this supplier are a challenge.

Roger

 

[SimonME30]

I think I’ve found the culprit. Slaters axles are 29.2mm apart. The outside of the axle bushes have ended up at 29.7mm and 29.5mm. So when I tighten up the axle screws, I’m clamping down on the bearings. And yes, I did remove the cusps on the frame spacers. Given that I’ve now added a bunch of extra spacers, I’m pondering whether to pull the whole lot apart and file down all the spacers, or whether to run the big flat file over the bearing bush faces so that I have a whisker if sideplay, which is probably the way I’ll go. I suspect on my layout I have very generous curves, and I can get away with the sideplay in 7mm fs gauge vs wheel flanges.

Edit - filed down bush faces, it now runs smoothly and it’s time to find the slight bind in the rods.

 

[mickoo]

Looking at your previous photos, the top hat bearings appear to have rather a large (thick) rim, bearings range wildly in that aspect, some rims are 0.7 mm thick and I've seen some at 1.6 mm thick.

For clearances on that engine in FS you can get away with +- 0.5 mm side play, I have less than that on the 47xx 2-8-0 and it still goes around six foot curves and through Peco points.

Skim the bearing faces and you'll be fine, don't go near the frame spacers as that'll throw out anything else that goes near the frames, like footplates and buffer beams and other such appendages.

 

[Scale7JB]

Simon, good news that you found one culprit.

Finding where it's binding is quite easy. Roll the chassis until it hits the tight spot, then go round all the rods with a pair of tweezers. Gently try and move them sideways and you'll soon find which one is tight.

I did a video the other day to show how to true up the Slaters wheels will post a bit later today.

JB.

 

[Eastsidepilot]

It's worth making sure the bearings are parallel to each other, I use a 4.8mm reamer through each pair of bearings, 3/16" equates to 4.76mm, also make sure the crank pins are square to the wheel bosses.

Col.

 

[Deano747]

Looking at your previous photos, the top hat bearings appear to have rather a large (thick) rim, bearings range wildly in that aspect, some rims are 0.7 mm thick and I've seen some at 1.6 mm thick.

For clearances on that engine in FS you can get away with +- 0.5 mm side play, I have less than that on the 47xx 2-8-0 and it still goes around six foot curves and through Peco points.

Skim the bearing faces and you'll be fine, don't go near the frame spacers as that'll throw out anything else that goes near the frames, like footplates and buffer beams and other such appendages.

I'm dabbling with an old Vulcan (Eric Underhill) 54xx kit and the bearings supplied do vary between 0,5 to 1.0mm! Apart from a few minor issues, not bad for an old designed kit.

Regards, Deano.