7mm Loose Ends

[28ten]

Ok as long as its not getting boring.
Anyway having looked at the window area i think i will remove the rear of the moulding but leave the front part intact hopefully this will give the relief that is missing in the kit window but will retain some of the strength of the original, as i think it might be vulnerable to handling damage
This pic shows what Dan has done replacing both windows

 

[28ten]

There is still some cleaning up required, but I am well pleased with the effect The glazing will be added to the front part of the window later.
The etches incidentally came from Dan.

 

[Phill Dyson]

Definitely keep those updates coming Cynric & I thought this pic might be useful

[attachment=0:36s2vp7u]XL803012.JPG[/attachment:36s2vp7u]

Phill

 

[28ten]

Oh no! now I have seen that little strip on the front wondow :shock: :lol: I dont think there is much I can do about it though.

 

[Phill Dyson]

Oh no! now I have seen that little strip on the front wondow :shock: :lol: I dont think there is much I can do about it though.

Yes I did notice, but I didn't like to say :lol: , you will need to remove the drivers name badge holders too from below the windows for a Swindon build won't you?
Phill

 

[28ten]

[quote=""28ten"":1lbw73ye]Oh no! now I have seen that little strip on the front wondow :shock: :lol: I dont think there is much I can do about it though.

Yes I did notice, but I didn't like to say :lol: , you will need to remove the drivers name badge holders too from below the windows for a Swindon build won't you?
Phill [/quote:1lbw73ye]
Good point about the name holder at least its an easy mod
When the time comes you should be able to choose the most effective mods for your western :lol:

 

[Phill Dyson]

When the time comes you should be able to choose the most effective mods for your western :lol:

Yes but my standards aren't as high as yours :lol: :lol: :lol:
Phill :wave:

 

[Dan Randall]

[quote=""28ten"":1se691e8]Oh no! now I have seen that little strip on the front wondow :shock: :lol: I dont think there is much I can do about it though.

Yes I did notice, but I didn't like to say :lol: , you will need to remove the drivers name badge holders too from below the windows for a Swindon build won't you?
Phill [/quote:1se691e8]

There's one on the rear window too and both were noticed when designing the etches. I didn't think there was a way of replicating this, other than half-etching the frames, but this would have made forming the handles a bit trickier, as there would not be any fold lines to guide you.

The solution I'll probably go for, is to glue some short lengths of 5 Amp fuse wire in the appropriate places. Whilst not exactly the right shape, this will at least give the impression that something is there, as well as providing another place for the grime to accumulate.


Regards

Dan

 

[28ten]

Ill say it would have made forming a bit more difficult :lol: I think we are getting pretty close to the limits of what is possible anyway I found the frames quite hard to handle without cracking the glass which is why I have left the front window in place.
Phill I dont think its standards, is more a question of compromise, you have much larger overall project, I just have one isolated model to faff about with. Oh, and your models move, mine sit in a case at the moment :lol:

 

[28ten]

Tonights action was soldering the bogie spring castings and removing the drivers nameplate, the buffers have been trial fitted as well. once a few holed have ben drilled in the headcode box there are just the lamp irons and nameboard brackets and the exterior of the cab will be ready (i think).
I am now starting to think about the painting sequence and I may well spray the warning panel before assembling the cab to the body as I will be easier to fit the headcode with the cab detached.

 

[lancer1027]

Hi Cynric, thats looking great coming on a treat

 

[28ten]

Every time i put it together I get a big grin :lol: :lol: the bogie springs make quite a difference to the appearance.

 

[Phill Dyson]

Yes it looks great, I particularly like the shot of it buffered up to the Hymek . I still wish Heljan would produce one though
Phill

 

[28ten]

The Hymek needs some work, but it can wait as at least its a finished loco :lol:
Im looking forward to seeing a bit of paint on D1011

 

[Phill Dyson]

Is D1011 going to be MSYP & the Hymek remain GSYP & have decided which one ? & will they be weathered?

Cheers Phill

 

[28ten]

Yes MSYP, the hymek will stay GSYP I haven't decided which one yet.
I am trying to stick to the 62-68 timeframe, I especially like the maroon to blue transition there is a shot in one of the books of MFYP Spartan leaving kingswear with a mixed rake of maroon and BG i would like a bit of SR steam thrown in as well :lol: which is why I have been looking at the West London joint, Winchester and the Withered Arm I really need to build some more stock before starting any layout.....

 

[Phill Dyson]

Yes MSYP, the hymek will stay GSYP I haven't decided which one yet.
I am trying to stick to the 62-68 timeframe, I especially like the maroon to blue transition there is a shot in one of the books of MFYP Spartan leaving kingswear with a mixed rake of maroon and BG i would like a bit of SR steam thrown in as well :lol: which is why I have been looking at the West London joint, Winchester and the Withered Arm I really need to build some more stock before starting any layout.....

I liked always MFYP for Westerns & Warships , I always think the full yellow panel suits Westerns well. I like your idea for the layout, some very tired looking re-built or un-rebuilt Bullied's hauling the mixed rakes of the time would look great along side the Hydraulics IMO
Phill

 

[28ten]

Tonights exciting instalment is the training bogie brake gear, i thought this would take about 45 minutes....wrong......double that
The instructions could be clearer on this and I ended working most of it out from photos. I glad I did this bogie first and not the power bogie :lol: everything is just pressed in place for the moment as there are a few holes to be filled etc. I was a little worried about one of the center shoes not being in line with the wheels but when I fitted the bolster It wasnt visible.
The bogie will need to be painted before final fixing and fitting the pull rods i also have a couple of extras in mind........

 

[Dan Randall]

Tonights exciting instalment is the training bogie brake gear, i thought this would take about 45 minutes....wrong......double that
The instructions could be clearer on this and I ended working most of it out from photos. I glad I did this bogie first and not the power bogie :lol: everything is just pressed in place for the moment as there are a few holes to be filled etc. I was a little worried about one of the center shoes not being in line with the wheels but when I fitted the bolster It wasnt visible.The bogie will need to be painted before final fixing and fitting the pull rods i also have a couple of extras in mind........

I had the same concerns when I did mine, but like you say, with the central bolster in place, it's no longer an issue.
[attachment=0:1dbi7dda]SNV32757.JPG[/attachment:1dbi7dda]
Apologies for the non-S7 wheels in this shot - it's not a recent photo. :lol:

I did find the brass strips that link the brake hangers very prone too damage and can't help thinking Nickel Silver would have been a better material in this instance. Perhaps I should get some etched for the next Western I build? Better still, perhaps we should lobby JLTRT to make them from Nickel Silver in the first place?

I'm off work this week and I'm hoping to do a little more work on "Rifleman", so depending on what I actually do, there may be a few pictures soon!


Regards

Dan

 

[28ten]

Eileens will probably have some suitable N/S for the pull rods. Still anything is better then the plasticard in the instructions :lol:
How is the compensation coming on?