Tim Watson
Western Thunderer
A real race horse.
Tim
Tim
P A D
Western Thunderer
Thanks Tim, but in this case it will be a Scottish town, Blair Atholl.
So on with the town. The steam pipes are now epoxied in place but the remaining oil pipe from the atomiser to the union near the bottom of the steam pipe has still to be added. The missing sand filler lid from the last post has now been added.
Same story on the other side.
The front steam pipe casting has now been fitted after adding the hose from brass tubing with the ribbing represented by tapping it 10BA. I don't like hoses made from coil springs.
I found an image on the internet that showed the buffer beam was riveted (at least it was in 1958) so I had some fun punching out the rivets with the beam in situ. They are not perfect but will pass muster.
At the other end the safety valves have been fitted.
And some gratuitous shots with the tender.
If I can get the motor in and the pick ups on, I will give it a run out on the test track at Leigh, if I can get there. There's a possibility that some family stuff may get in the way.
Next up will be the boiler back plate plus the couplings and draw bar.
Cheers,
Peter
So on with the town. The steam pipes are now epoxied in place but the remaining oil pipe from the atomiser to the union near the bottom of the steam pipe has still to be added. The missing sand filler lid from the last post has now been added.
Same story on the other side.
The front steam pipe casting has now been fitted after adding the hose from brass tubing with the ribbing represented by tapping it 10BA. I don't like hoses made from coil springs.
I found an image on the internet that showed the buffer beam was riveted (at least it was in 1958) so I had some fun punching out the rivets with the beam in situ. They are not perfect but will pass muster.
At the other end the safety valves have been fitted.
And some gratuitous shots with the tender.
If I can get the motor in and the pick ups on, I will give it a run out on the test track at Leigh, if I can get there. There's a possibility that some family stuff may get in the way.
Next up will be the boiler back plate plus the couplings and draw bar.
Cheers,
Peter
Overseer
Western Thunderer
I have to agree with JB.
The build has been a great advertisement for Martin Finney kits. Everything has looked easily achievable by a reasonably competent modeller. Obviously you know what you are doing but it certainly hasn't looked like a fight to get to the beautifully refined end product. Congratulations.
The build has been a great advertisement for Martin Finney kits. Everything has looked easily achievable by a reasonably competent modeller. Obviously you know what you are doing but it certainly hasn't looked like a fight to get to the beautifully refined end product. Congratulations.
P A D
Western Thunderer
Thanks JB.
I saved it from being built broad gauge as well!
Thanks also to Overseer. Yes I agree the kit is superb and a joy to build. Although quite complex in places and a bit fiddly, it is by far and away the easiest kit I have ever built. The only thing I don' t like are the scale thickness running plate edges. In my opinion they could have been half as thick again, been much more robust and still looked good. I had a good look at W1 and the B1 while chatting to Mickoo at Kettering, but I don't recal if the metal was as thin on the edges.
I'm looking forward to building the A4 but next up will be the MOK STD 4 tank. It will be good to compare the design approach of this other hi-fi kit manufacturer to Finney's/F7.
Any way, a bit more progress. I've modified the draw bar to set it lower down so it runs under the drag beams not through the slots. I wanted it to be screwed to the loco, with a pin on the tender that could be dropped into a hole at the rear of the draw bar. As designed, I think it would have to be screwed to both and run through the slots, which have been pain.
Here's the pin on the tender. The rod is threaded 8 BA at the top (the bottom in this view). It was then passed through the hole in the lower front spacer, and the nut screwed on. I then soldered the rod at the hole, lowered the nut to the top plate and soldered it and the rod. This is just to give a bit more contact at the top end for strength.
And connected. The fall plate is soldered as I saw no advantage in having it loose. I'm undecided about adding the doors to the tender as I think they will just cause problems on the curves. We'll see.
l
Here are the tender wheels after gluing on some plastic "polo mint" shapes to convert them from spokes to discs. Not perfect I know, but they came with the kit off eBay and I'm not spending 60 odd quid to replace them.
I think they look OK behind the frames and will certainly pass muster when painted.
If I can get to Leigh on Saturday I'll bring it along though I doubt if I'll get time now to put in the motor and add the pick ups. I'll probably bring a tank loco and give the A3 a tow around the test track to see how the bogie and radial axle perform on the curves.
If any WTers see me playing with my engines, come and say hello. It's always good to put faces to names.
Cheers,
Peter
I saved it from being built broad gauge as well!
Thanks also to Overseer. Yes I agree the kit is superb and a joy to build. Although quite complex in places and a bit fiddly, it is by far and away the easiest kit I have ever built. The only thing I don' t like are the scale thickness running plate edges. In my opinion they could have been half as thick again, been much more robust and still looked good. I had a good look at W1 and the B1 while chatting to Mickoo at Kettering, but I don't recal if the metal was as thin on the edges.
I'm looking forward to building the A4 but next up will be the MOK STD 4 tank. It will be good to compare the design approach of this other hi-fi kit manufacturer to Finney's/F7.
Any way, a bit more progress. I've modified the draw bar to set it lower down so it runs under the drag beams not through the slots. I wanted it to be screwed to the loco, with a pin on the tender that could be dropped into a hole at the rear of the draw bar. As designed, I think it would have to be screwed to both and run through the slots, which have been pain.
Here's the pin on the tender. The rod is threaded 8 BA at the top (the bottom in this view). It was then passed through the hole in the lower front spacer, and the nut screwed on. I then soldered the rod at the hole, lowered the nut to the top plate and soldered it and the rod. This is just to give a bit more contact at the top end for strength.
And connected. The fall plate is soldered as I saw no advantage in having it loose. I'm undecided about adding the doors to the tender as I think they will just cause problems on the curves. We'll see.
l
Here are the tender wheels after gluing on some plastic "polo mint" shapes to convert them from spokes to discs. Not perfect I know, but they came with the kit off eBay and I'm not spending 60 odd quid to replace them.
I think they look OK behind the frames and will certainly pass muster when painted.
If I can get to Leigh on Saturday I'll bring it along though I doubt if I'll get time now to put in the motor and add the pick ups. I'll probably bring a tank loco and give the A3 a tow around the test track to see how the bogie and radial axle perform on the curves.
If any WTers see me playing with my engines, come and say hello. It's always good to put faces to names.
Cheers,
Peter
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mickoo
Western Thunderer
Peter, the W1 footplate edge outside of the valance is thin, half etch, but inside it' full thickness, the step is a guide to locating and securing the valance.
Also the footplate is fixed firmly to the shell and in most places full width and that which sticks outside the shell is very firm. It's also nickel silver which is more robust than brass thickness for thickness.
The B1 is a long and barely supported footplate, even on the real engine. The core is double thickness at the outside edge and single thickness near the frames, basically a strap along the bottom outside edge. You fold it over as a lamination and solder and then clean the folded edge square. Over this on top you laminates a half etched detail overlay which protrudes out past the double thickness core, this leaves a step onto which you locate the valance.
It is a bit of work, but it is discrete and rock solid. Most people pick up locos by grabbing the main driving wheels which runs the risk of the footplate deforming between thumb and fingers.
MD
Also the footplate is fixed firmly to the shell and in most places full width and that which sticks outside the shell is very firm. It's also nickel silver which is more robust than brass thickness for thickness.
The B1 is a long and barely supported footplate, even on the real engine. The core is double thickness at the outside edge and single thickness near the frames, basically a strap along the bottom outside edge. You fold it over as a lamination and solder and then clean the folded edge square. Over this on top you laminates a half etched detail overlay which protrudes out past the double thickness core, this leaves a step onto which you locate the valance.
It is a bit of work, but it is discrete and rock solid. Most people pick up locos by grabbing the main driving wheels which runs the risk of the footplate deforming between thumb and fingers.
MD
Steph Dale
Western Thunderer
That's an interesting and very valid point Mick, I got into the practise of picking up my models across the cylinders and cab or cylinders and tender quite quickly when I was modelling European HO as the locos have lots of fine detail parts, some of which are painful, and most of which are delicate...
Steph
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Steph, it seems the easiest and most common way, it's the way I do it and it and you're right, can cause damage. So I started to watch others at shows on the test track etc and noticed the same, especially tender engines where the tender is semi permanently coupled.
Where possible I try to follow your approach but too easily slip back into bad habits.
MD
Where possible I try to follow your approach but too easily slip back into bad habits.
MD
Rob Pulham
Western Thunderer
P A D
Western Thunderer
Hi Peter,
I will be a long so I will look out for you at the test track
Hi Rob,
Unfortunately I can't make it after all.
Last night I finally completed the radial axle. I have modified the way it fits to allow removal for painting. First I cut a gap in the top of the control spring mounting with a slitting disc. This make a slot for the spring wire instead of a hole. The axle fitting can then be dropped on to the spring from the underside and is retained with a keeper plate.
The sideways movement is limited by the pegs on the top reaching the inside of the inner frames. There is about 1mm or so clearance between the wheel rim and the outer frames, so the movement could be increased slightly if necessary.
The keeper plate is a very simple affair held in place with a 12BA bolt. It needs to be cut to about 4mm to prevent it fouling the spring wire which passes over it.
Cheers,
Peter
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Rob Pulham
Western Thunderer
Nice idea Peter, I saw Mick today at Leigh as we were leaving but from afar and I didn't get the chance to speak. Hopefully I will get a chance to catch up at Donny.
P A D
Western Thunderer
First up this post, some additional detail to the brake rigging that I should have done earlier. Having improved the pull rods I over looked the the crank to piston joints at the brake cylinders. These were a bit lacking as they came so I decided to beef them up as well. Here's left hand one part way through the process.
And with the loop sawed off.
It now looks more like a crank/piston rod joint compared with the original set up.
This view from rail height shows that it was worth the effort.
And the other side.
And now the boiler back plate. It's a nice mix of castings and etchings. I particularly like the etched dials and fire hole door.
This view shows the driver's heat shield which is linked to the fire hole door.
And in the cab with the reverser also fitted. The back plate is removable for painting via a 10BA bolt through the floor.
And with the roof on.
As can be seen above, the injectors from Ragstone have also been fitted. The large pipe to the right hand injector is removable to allow the the cartazzi truck to be taken out.
The remaining pipe from the atomiser to the steam pipe has now been fitted . It's just placed in the union at the steam pipe until after painting when it will be glued.
And the other side. The pipe is out of the union on this side. Some clumsy git
must have caught it when cleaning.
The front and rear coupling (CPL) are also fitted .
So from a detail point of view, that just leaves the cab glazing and sight screens to be added after painting. I now need to order the motor/gearbox from ABC and add the pick ups.
Cheers,
Peter
And with the loop sawed off.
It now looks more like a crank/piston rod joint compared with the original set up.
This view from rail height shows that it was worth the effort.
And the other side.
And now the boiler back plate. It's a nice mix of castings and etchings. I particularly like the etched dials and fire hole door.
This view shows the driver's heat shield which is linked to the fire hole door.
And in the cab with the reverser also fitted. The back plate is removable for painting via a 10BA bolt through the floor.
And with the roof on.
As can be seen above, the injectors from Ragstone have also been fitted. The large pipe to the right hand injector is removable to allow the the cartazzi truck to be taken out.
The remaining pipe from the atomiser to the steam pipe has now been fitted . It's just placed in the union at the steam pipe until after painting when it will be glued.
And the other side. The pipe is out of the union on this side. Some clumsy git
must have caught it when cleaning.
The front and rear coupling (CPL) are also fitted .
So from a detail point of view, that just leaves the cab glazing and sight screens to be added after painting. I now need to order the motor/gearbox from ABC and add the pick ups.
Cheers,
Peter
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adrian
Flying Squad
That's a fine looking thoroughbred there. Although as usual the camera is a cruel mistress - one small query in the last photo the middle boiler band in front of the dome doesn't look quite seated against the boiler.
Dikitriki
Flying Squad
Excellent. I can see that I shall have to go over mine (again!) before painting to add a few of the details you have included. Things like the injectors and the beefing up of the vacuum cylinder crank to piston joints. All those little bits really add to the overall effect.
Richard
Richard
P A D
Western Thunderer
Hi Adrian,
Oh ye of Eagle eyes!
You are correct it is not seated properly and will be rectified before painting. I also need to replace the one at the front of the firebox as I overdid the cleaning up, and rubbed through the band which is quite thin. This is the first time I have viewed the images on the computer. It's amazing how much solder I have left behind, but it does look worse on the screen. Still must do better next time.
Thanks to you both for the kind words.
To be honest, I have all your RM build photos on file and I was looking through them to see if there was anything you had added that I missed. The vac cylinder crank stood out as you replaced yours with cast ones, so mine looked a bit spindly. Still not as good as the castings but now they pass muster. The firebox shoulder wash out plug is another detail I have to thank you for. I was not aware of it then spotted it on yours. So out came the books and sure enough, Blair Atholl has it. I see you have also added a representation of the safety chain on the middle valve sliding cover. I'll think about that as I was late adding the tiny etch overlay to the bottom rail and to save on cleaning up, I super glued it. If I put and iron any where near it now the cyano will evaporate.
Strange that mister Finney did not include castings for the injectors. Will you be including them when you reintroduce the A3 and are they in the A4? So far I have resisted the temptation to rummage through those nice boxes you sent me.
Cheers,
Peter
P A D
Western Thunderer
So, the dodgy boiler band has been removed and replaced with a new one.
As has the offending one at the firebox boiler joint.
Some additional detail also added to the snifting valve. The holes in the cover were cast in, but barely discernble. I removed it and then held it in a pin vice by the tab and enlarged the holes with 0.5mm drill bit, first in another pin vice to get things started and then in the mini drill. Possibly a bit large now but they will look smaller after painting, and will now be visible.
So, dare I say it, that completes the detailing apart from the glazing and sight screens. While it's nice and clean l took some photos on my brother's railway.
Cheers,
Peter
As has the offending one at the firebox boiler joint.
Some additional detail also added to the snifting valve. The holes in the cover were cast in, but barely discernble. I removed it and then held it in a pin vice by the tab and enlarged the holes with 0.5mm drill bit, first in another pin vice to get things started and then in the mini drill. Possibly a bit large now but they will look smaller after painting, and will now be visible.
So, dare I say it, that completes the detailing apart from the glazing and sight screens. While it's nice and clean l took some photos on my brother's railway.
Cheers,
Peter
Rob Pulham
Western Thunderer
A thing of beauty
P A D
Western Thunderer
Thanks Gents.
Before moving on to the pick ups and motor I decided to beef up the running plate edge on the which is much too thin to be practical considering the large overhang. The edge on the loco is also very thin but there is much less overhang so it's not so vulnerable.
It's about 0.16 mm as it comes, and I cut some suitable width strips of a similar thickness brass sheet and laminated them on the top.
It is now around double the original thickness, much more robust and still looks prototypically thin enough.
Here's the mounting plates for the wiper pick ups.
And with the pick ups added and wired up. I've used 0.5mm PB wire for the pick ups.
The first steaming. I'm pleased to say it ran smoothly from a crawl from the off.
I have this on video and will upload it when I remember how to do it.
Cheers,
Peter
Before moving on to the pick ups and motor I decided to beef up the running plate edge on the which is much too thin to be practical considering the large overhang. The edge on the loco is also very thin but there is much less overhang so it's not so vulnerable.
It's about 0.16 mm as it comes, and I cut some suitable width strips of a similar thickness brass sheet and laminated them on the top.
It is now around double the original thickness, much more robust and still looks prototypically thin enough.
Here's the mounting plates for the wiper pick ups.
And with the pick ups added and wired up. I've used 0.5mm PB wire for the pick ups.
The first steaming. I'm pleased to say it ran smoothly from a crawl from the off.
I have this on video and will upload it when I remember how to do it.
Cheers,
Peter