7mm Mickoo's Commercial Workbench

richard carr

Western Thunderer
Mick

In capture one to get the cropped area to fill the screen change from the crop tool to any of the others, go back to the crop tool to see the crop.

It's funny that although I used Lightroom for years from version 1 onwards I think I now know more about Capture 1 because I had to watch the online tutorials to learn how it worked, something I never really did in Lightroom I just learnt as I went along.

I would have happily stuck with Lightroom but I just wasn't going to keep paying money to adobe every month for the rest of my life.

Richard
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Having enjoyed building MOK’s 14xx I wish there were others in the range I could find an excuse for. It’s a lovely runner and easy to build.
See, this I don't get, it's not personal Paul as I see it a great many times on here and elsewhere.

I don't see why people try and justify something they want, they just seem to end up making excuses not to get it.

I know money and price can be a factor, but if possible, stop looking doe eyed and wistful and just damn well get it, enjoy the build and enjoy the final product and to hell with any justification.

For Paul, other than the Armstrong or De Glehn then just about everything else in the range could be justified with reason on your layout (even they could if you set the date back a few decades), even the King Arthur on say a Royal Ascot race day special?

It's all about having fun....sometimes it's good to play like an eight year old :thumbs:
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Mick

In capture one to get the cropped area to fill the screen change from the crop tool to any of the others, go back to the crop tool to see the crop.

I would have happily stuck with Lightroom but I just wasn't going to keep paying money to adobe every month for the rest of my life.

Richard
Umm no :rant:

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I get stuck with this crap, no matter what I do, it will not expand to full screen, except the spot removal tool, then it goes full screen, but as soon as I select something else it goes back like this.

Spot removal is much faster and overall in default, much smarter, but it does not let you control where you're cloning from, at least LR allowed you to select the source, important if the spot is over some detail or something like a telephone wire or antenna.

There are benefits to both so far, Capture 1 is clearly more powerful but thus far, less user friendly....probably the user then :p
 

P A D

Western Thunderer
Hi Mick,
All this photo shop stuff is passing way over my head at 50,000 feet, but I do like the removable smokebox front. On the D11, I've made a simple/crude bayonet fitting, as this allows easier access to the boiler if it is desired to fit a speaker and chip at a later date. From a kit design perspective, wouldn't a bayonet type fitting be something you could incorporate for future kits? I think the term "bayonet" is correct based on my recollection of lens fittings on SLR cameras many years ago. I've no idea if they still use the same fittings or if things have moved on.
Cheers,
Peter
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
With regard the loco, were the splasher tops already shaped to fit round the boiler barrel, and if so, how close were they to the final shape required? Currently with the D16 it'll require the builder to file them back gently gently to fit. I am tempted (when I get the V1.02 chassis etch) to file back the splashers, then take them apart and measure the arc required and adjust the artwork.

JB.
JB, yes the splasher tops are already profiled and require no work at all, well not in regards to the boiler, but the throat plate part needs a little nibble more, the instructions do not that, but it really is only a nibble, say 0.5 mm or less. I'll take a close up of that area so you can get an idea of the shape.

If you can do it on the D16 then it'd be a great help to builders, even if it's only a part representation that builders then have to fine tune.
 

Scale7JB

Western Thunderer
JB, yes the splasher tops are already profiled and require no work at all, well not in regards to the boiler, but the throat plate part needs a little nibble more, the instructions do not that, but it really is only a nibble, say 0.5 mm or less. I'll take a close up of that area so you can get an idea of the shape.

If you can do it on the D16 then it'd be a great help to builders, even if it's only a part representation that builders then have to fine tune.

Thanks Mick!!

JB.
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
End of week update, to be fair it's been faster than usual as I've been off work. I'm not as far forward as I planned/wanted but there's been little slacking, it's just a grind when you get to the details.

Some parts are just placed on as they need to be off the model for paint but it's nearly there now above the footplate level (sans cab work). The smoke box is still loose on the footplate, I had hoped to get that finally fixed down today but the Timothy time decreed otherwise.

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Focalplane

Western Thunderer
See, this I don't get, it's not personal Paul as I see it a great many times on here and elsewhere.

I don't see why people try and justify something they want, they just seem to end up making excuses not to get it.

I know money and price can be a factor, but if possible, stop looking doe eyed and wistful and just damn well get it, enjoy the build and enjoy the final product and to hell with any justification.

For Paul, other than the Armstrong or De Glehn then just about everything else in the range could be justified with reason on your layout (even they could if you set the date back a few decades), even the King Arthur on say a Royal Ascot race day special?

It's all about having fun....sometimes it's good to play like an eight year old :thumbs:

Mick, you missed one element for decision making. Money and price are less important for me than time. I turned 74 the other day and during the course of events made an offer to buy an old friend’s Riley RMA. The owner in Bangkok, the car in Bristol. I haven’t owned a classic or vintage car since 1984 and have realized that owning one would be worth it for regaining the thrill of real motoring! First I need to find a lock up garage so the deal will probably take a few months. The car will require very little work so there will be time for kit building as well! How much time we never know until it’s too late!

Cheers, Paul
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Time, ah yes that old constraint, time waits for no man.

Last update this week, back to the real world tomorrow, pahh!

Better progress today, other than the cab interior there's little else to add to the engine upper works, drawbar strengthening plate, cylinder cover handle, handrails (those on the sand boxes get added after paint) and clack valve pipework, again added after paint. Other parts to add after paint are safety valve lever and whistles.

Below, brakes and inside motion can only be finished when the ABC gearbox arrives....getting a little cross now at the delays to be honest, despite being told twice in the last two weeks it'll get posted, granted the first one got sent elsewhere, but seven weeks, frustrating to say the least.

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Peter Cross

Western Thunderer
Very nice work. Something to aim at.

Little query, why only one safety valve, and I am probably wrong but I thought they went east west, not north south.
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Very nice work. Something to aim at.

Little query, why only one safety valve, and I am probably wrong but I thought they went east west, not north south.
No idea, the instructions don't say and there's a slot in the rear left for a lever so I'd presumed the valve would be aligned parallel to the lever.

It's easy to change if it's wrong, if more info becomes available.
 

SimonT

Western Thunderer
These locos had a single safety valve on the right hand side on the bonnet with the lever on the right hand side. This was the same when they were in their earlier form. I suspect it is a Dean thing and two east-west is a Churchward thing.
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
ST, appreciated.

Lever slot in the bonnet is cast on the left side, so should the valves be on the same side as the lever or opposite. I'll post a close up tonight.
 
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