7mm MOK BR Standard 4MT Tank

P A D

Western Thunderer
I am looking forward to the pipe work, especially after seeing these photos. Can you describe where the pipe goes from the single reservoir that sits at the rear of the cylinders between the slidebars?

Ken

Hi Ken,
I found this link on Adrian's Cherryclan website. Very useful if you haven't seen it already. Looking at some of the photos I may review the pipe from the top slide bar on mine. On 800064 if loops over and behind the slide bar and not up towards the mech. lubricator. Need to cross reference before deciding, as these preservationists go out of their way to trap us modellers.
Cheers,
Peter

Detail pics of 80064 at the Bluebell - Galleries
 

P A D

Western Thunderer
Here's the same thing on 80002. It's hard to see where the pipe in Heather's ends up, but on number 2 it hangs over the piston rod. The thing is, where's that pipe looping over the slide bar coming from and going to? Or is that the pipe that ends over the piston rod? Sod it, I'm leaving mine as it is.

Note also the LMS relief valve at the back of the cylinder. The one on the front is the standard (does that mean anything) BR type, so clearly the preservationists had to use what parts they had.

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This is the the grease lubricating point on the frame that I mentioned in my last post.
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There's one on the other side as well and here's confirmation that they were on in BR days. This is a cropped image taken from the RCTS volume on the class. I'll double check that there isn't a casting for it in the box, before I go to the trouble of making one.
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Here's an image of the right hand slide bar lubricator pipe. It clearly loops over the slide bar and disappears. Possibly it's looping back up again but that could be a wheel spoke giving that impression.
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Another detail I notice is the blow off cock lever has a double handle, whereas I've only put a forward facing one on my model. I've seen this on other preserved locos so I'm not sure why i did ut tge way I did. Again, I need to check if this is how it was in BR days but it will be easy to replace the existing handle with one that extends both sides.

Just for fun I took some more photos comparing the model to the one I built from the DJB kit around 2002.

The DJB model looks pretty good from these angles.
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Apart from minor detail differences the main discrepancies are:-
The curve of the cab sides to the roof on the DJB is too high, giving the impression the windows are lower.
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The bunker rear looks comparable, the sided of the DJB don't taper as they should.

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The running plate on the DJB is lower and consequently the drop plate is shorter.
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Not only is the running plate lower on the DJB, it also turns in further forward and the side tanks are slightly longer.
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The valve gear on the DJB is a good as many offered in kits and is more than acceptable. However, the MOK gear is in a class of its own. It's not that clear in this photo, but the transition from the perimeter of the dome to the top is a bit angular. However, despite these faults DJB would hold up pretty well on its own running on any layout, as long as you kept it away from the MOK.
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Cheers,
Peter
 

P A D

Western Thunderer
Thanks Dave,
I think you pointed me to Martin's image earlier on as I have all downloaded. There's nothing that helps a great deal with the pipe runs around the cylinders, but I found this nice image of the grease lubrication points on the frames. Ragstone do a 4 station oil box that can be modified with the addition of some rods on the front face to represent the grease nipples.
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By the way, I damaged one of the plastic brake shoes and contacted Dave Sharp to purchase the sprue. He's sending it gratis which is very good of him.
Cheers,
Peter
 

P A D

Western Thunderer
My brother had a couple of Ragstone 4 feed oil boxes which he kindly let me have, and I've modified them to represent the grease lubrication points. After some fettling, drilling, adding some lengths of brass rod to the front face for the grease nipples and copper wire for the feed pipes, this is the result. On the right is the unmodified one. 20180910_182754.jpg

Here's the second one completed and soldered to the other ends of the copper wires on the first one. If was easier to do it this way than adding 4 loose lengths of wire, as gas to be done with the first one.
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And then separated.
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I used epoxy to fit them to the frames.
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I have now fitted the clip to the cylinder drain pipes and trimmed them back a couple of mm or so. Not easy to see in this photo, but I've also re-routed the oil pipe from the upper slide bar.
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Next the back plate and pick ups. The Slaters wheels I ordered for my A4 arrived today, so I hope I don't get distracted from the 4MT and go off on a Finney 7 tangent. I was admiring the quality of the "milky bar" boiler when I put the wheels in the box.

Cheers,
Peter
 

farnetti

Western Thunderer
My brother had a couple of Ragstone 4 feed oil boxes which he kindly let me have, and I've modified them to represent the grease lubrication points.

I had noticed these oil boxes in earlier photos and no doubt will plagiarise your solution when the time comes. I am also grateful for your solution to dealing with the pipes going from the filter to the injectors by jointing them behind the cab steps, the curve is very tight and prototype photos show a cut away at the rear of the steps to accommodate them.

Ken
 

Martin Shaw

Western Thunderer
Hi all
I may be able to shed some light on oil pipes. Both the slidebars and valve spindle guide are pressure lubricated from the mechanical lubricator, on the LHS if memory serves, which also serves the axlebox crowns. The oilbox attached to the front of the top slidebar is filled with steam oil and should drip onto a swab mop that wipes oil onto the piston rod to lubricate the metallic packing in the gland. The cylinders and valves are pressure fed with steam oil from the RHS mechanical lubricator. Hope this untangles it a bit.
Regards
Martin
 

P A D

Western Thunderer
Thanks Martin.
It's always interesting to find out what does what on the real thing.

Plagiarise away Ken. The Ragstone oil boxes are a bit chunky so I filed them down, but on reflection I could have done a bit more.

The chassis was getting very grubby after all the recent additions, so I stripped it down and "Viakaled" it. While the wheels are off I replaced the handle on the blow down valve lever and drilled the pipe supports on either side and soldered a 12 BA nut to the underside for mounting the pick ups for the rear and middle driving wheels . The front wheel pick up will need a bit more thought.
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Cheers,
Peter
 

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
Peter,

Whilst re-reading this topic and copying hints / tips to my Son's instruction booklet I am minded to ask:-

" MOK instructions have a version identity and a revision date... what are those details for your booklet?"

Regards, Graham
 

P A D

Western Thunderer
Peter,

Whilst re-reading this topic and copying hints / tips to my Son's instruction booklet I am minded to ask:-

" MOK instructions have a version identity and a revision date... what are those details for your booklet?"

Regards, Graham

Hi Graham,
I'm travelling on business but will check when I'm back and let you know.
Cheers,
Peter
 

P A D

Western Thunderer
So back to the build. Here's my interpretation of the boiler back plate based on the parts supplied. I though chemically blackening the cast brass back plate might negate having to paint it, but in the end I had to scratch brush it where soldering was needed, so I'll have to paint it anyway.

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At this stage I put it away as I discovered that I can no longer insert it with all the apertenances in place, as well at the reversing mechanism and hand wheel. I had only tacked the reverser in place so was able to remove it. With a bit of fiddling I got the back plate and floor in again. I was able to slide the reverser in using a pair or tweesers from the top, but to get a nice tight fit, the roof will need soldering in place before painting. To do that I need to be able to drop the floor and back plate, so I'll think about that before proceeding. Here's the back plate in the cab. 20180924_220157.jpg

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The water level gauge has been added under the right hand front window and can just bee seen in this image.

Cheers,
Peter
 
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farnetti

Western Thunderer
At this stage I put it away as i discovered that I can no longer insert it with all the apertenances in place as well at the reversing mechanism and hand wheel. Ic had only tacked the reversed in place so aS abkd to remove it. With a bit of fiddling i got tge back plate and floor in again. I was able to slide the reverser in using a pair or tweesers from the top, but to get a nice tight fit, the roof will need soldering in place before painting. To do that I need to be able to drop the floor and back plate, so I'll think about that before proceeding. Here's the back plate in the cab.

Hi Peter, with regard to the cab roof I was thinking about using miniature magnets to keep it in place which will allow for fitting windows after painting and future access.

Ken
 

P A D

Western Thunderer
Beautiful, Peter. That backhead really looks the part. And is art.
Cheers
Jan

Many tbanks Jan.

Hi Peter, with regard to the cab roof I was thinking about using miniature magnets to keep it in place which will allow for fitting windows after painting and future access.
Ken

Ken,
I'd be surprised if you can get a tight enough fit on all 4 sides of the roof. No harm in giving it a try as you can always use solder ad plan B.
In any case I've sorted mine so it now goes in and out. First I cut the rear part off the reverser casting where it for a through the hole in the bulk head. I then filed the out edge so that it could be fitted closer to he side. I also moved the cast valve on the left side of the back plate so it clears the reverser wheel. That gave more clearance to the side of the back plate and the attached gubbins. I also removed the first 10mm from the half etch overlaps on either side of the floor at the front. That aids fitting it in, but has no visible impact on the appearance. Unfortunately I failed to take pictures of the modifications, but once I was happy with that I soldered the roof in place.
Not much to see in these photos other than that the chopped reverser still looks the part.
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I realise the pipes on top of the back plate don't match up with those on the firebox. However, once the roof is on you cannot see up there from any angle.
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To solder roof on I used my new butane soldering iron, but with the tip removed.
First the roof was clipped on using the mini tabs and slots. I then inverted the body and held it with the roof pushed down on two blocks of wood set apart to act like a V block. A good dollop of flux was added followed by a 3mm length of 145 solder wire. The flame was then applied and the solder chased towards the edges. First I did the front edge the the rear. On the rear you can only do it where the top of ghe locker touches the roof inside the cab. Then the last few mm between the locker and the side are given the sms treatment. After that the two sides were soldered on the out side using the electric iron and a block of wood to press the roof down tight. Here are the front and rear edges.
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And the side seams.
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Whilst I was at it I corrected an earlier error in the piping along the top of the left hand tank. Originally I had the copper pipes passing behind the tank vent higher up, which was wrong. I also replaced the regulator rod with 0.8mm wire instead of 0.7mm.20180925_193820.jpg

It won't be easy to paint inside the cab or fit the glazing, but I'm confident I can do it. I'd rather struggle a bit with that and have the roof on nice and tight.

From these close up photos there is clearly more excess solder to be removed, but I'll get to that later.
I bobbed the chassis back in for a quick shuffty with the roof on. Once it had a final wash ready for painting, I'll fit the buffer heads in and mask them off before painting. I was in the process of fitting the cinder guards when I noted that the early builds did not have them originally, so I'm leaving them off.

Not sure it's a work of art ad mentioned by Jan, but it's looking good. Just the pick ups to do now and then replace the damaged brake blocks.20180925_193100.jpg

Cheers,
Peter
 
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