7mm MOK BR Standard 4MT Tank

[P A D]

Thanks Dave.

There are quite a few photos of 80002 in the running shed at Haworth included with the instructions, but not one shows the cab back plate. I need to check the ones I took of 80002 at Oxenhope to see if I have something, but from what I've seen so far, the money's on 15.
Cheers,
Peter

 

[dibateg]

No -I've never built any DJB kits... slight before my 7mm time. They always looked impressive built up, but you never know how much work that took...

Regards
Tony

 

[P A D]

Hi Tony,
Compared to what I had built up to then, the 80000 was streets ahead. All nickel silver etchings and good quality nickel, brass and white metal castings. I don't recall any difficulties building it, but as already mentioned, the running plate above the cylinders is too high. At the time I felt it was a mod too far to correct it, but if I was doing it now then I'd find a way. I think for you as a professional builder it would not take up too many hours, and make the cost prohibitive for the customer. As a personal build it would be a comparative walk in the park compared to what you did to the DJH Fairburn.

It's a bit lacking in the ash pan area and I may knock up something in plastic card and glue it in, and I've had a Ragstone ash pan operating lever for years that I can then fit. Still it turned out OK and as can be seen from this shot, the ventilation holes and slacking pipe cover are on.



Cheers,
Peter

 

[P A D]

Some quid pro quo for the heads up on prototype information and photos elsewhere on the forum.

Here are my photos taken at Oxenhope of 80002 stored out of service in the exhibition shed. Some of them are in the wrong orientation, but I don't know why as I rotated them on my PC after downloading from the camera. They can always be downloaded and rotated.

For ease of posting I'm not adding any comments as I think it is self evident what each photo is, but if any are not clear just give a shout. There may be some duplications as I went into a clicking frenzy, and the ones from the front running plate and cab were taken with permission. They are all my copyright.



Cheers,
Peter
​

 

[P A D]

Here are lot 2.


Cheers,
Peter

 

[P A D]

Lot 3.


This might need some explanation. It is the underside of the left hand cylinder, looking up from the front towards the rear.


Cheers,
Peter

 

[P A D]

Lot 4. I trust this is not overkill as I have shed loads more. Somebody stop me if it's too much.

Daifly has very kindly pointed out my plonker moment in the 1st post with the pics of 80002. I have now corrected "copy write" to copyright. Duurgh! Thanks again Dave.


That's enough for now, but I'll post the rest later.
Cheers,
Peter

 

[P A D]

Lot 5



Cheers,
Peter

 

[P A D]

Lot 6.



Cheers,
Peter

 

[P A D]

Lot 7.

 

[P A D]

Lot 8.
The last one for now, but more will follow later.
Cheers,
Peter

 

[farnetti]

Peter, these are so helpful, keep them coming.

Ken

 

[P A D]

Hi Ken,
Are you building one as well?
Lot 9.
Cheers,
Peter

 

[P A D]

Lot 10.
This is the last. Hope these have been useful to anyone building the 4MT, or have one in the pipeline, or on a wish list.
Cheers,
Peter

 

[Dikitriki]

Very useful, thank you.

Now we have to work out what not to include. Where do we stop?

Richard

 

[Ressaldar]

Very useful indeed. Is there a shot lurking about showing the AWS shoe on the rear bogie? The shot of the protection plate is very useful.

Many thanks for taking the time and trouble to post those pictures.

Regards

Mike

 

[P A D]

Very useful indeed. Is there a shot lurking about showing the AWS shoe on the rear bogie? The shot of the protection plate is very useful.

Many thanks for taking the time and trouble to post those pictures.

Regards

Mike

Hi Mike,
I'm not sure the AWS shoe is there. I doubt if the loco was approved for main line running, so why put it on? It could be the plate is purely cosmetic to give an accurate appearance of how it ran in service. I assume the Scottish type smoke box embellishments are a reminder of its days at Polmadie.

If you look up lnerjp's profile on RMW, he has posted 30 or so useful 4MT photos in his gallery of 80135. No aws though and no plate.

Cheers,
Peter

 

[Dog Star]

Something like 40 years back BR insisted that any engine working over the national network had to have any water scoop and any ATC pick-up removed... so unless the AWS is compatible with recent / current signalling specifications then very unlikely that a preserved engine is going to have the fitting.

 

[JimG]

I assume the Scottish type smoke box embellishments are a reminder of its days at Polmadie.

There is a lot of evidence that standard tanks got the pre-Grouping treatment in the Glasgow area along with being kept in very clean condition. The polished steel hinge straps and frame edges are as much a sign of this as the star behind the smokebox handles. I think I remember that the treatment of the locomotives was popular at Corkerhill, the main G&SW shed in Glasgow for motive power for the Glasgow - Greenock line.

Jim.

 

[P A D]

So back to the build.

Here's the motor mount in place in the frames . Again it's just held with the mini tabs.


Once that is soldered up it's time to add the frame overlays. They are very long half etched pieces and as a result were slightly bowed on the fret. Once I snipped them of the fret they became very banana like.


However after mounting onto the frames using the mini tabs, they were a perfect fit. As can be seen I managed to break two of the tabs at the front (don't ask) above where the pony will be. I also omitted to fold out the tabs above the axle slots, but had already twisted the others, so it was simpler to carry on. I clipped the loose part of the overlay tight to the frame with a small bulldog clip, before soldering all around the edge.


Once both overlays were on and cleaned up, the spring hangers are next. This is the down side of this kit as all the cast parts are nickel silver and require a lot of time to prepare. Not because they are poor but because there are so many of them. If you go with the removable option for the springs as I have done, then there's even more work drilling out and tapping.

Having followed the instructions and already added the ash pan, I put on the hangers adjacent to the ash pan first as there is restricted access for the soldering iron, and I wanted to get the difficult ones out of the way. As it turns out, I got them in without too much bother , but it would be easier to do with the ash pan not there. I think I'll replaced the 12 BA cheese head bolts with hex bolts from Eileens. It will then look like the lock nut on the spring adjuster.


The middle springs are done and some of the remaining parts are prepared. This shows the clearance issue with the rear middle spring hanger and front rear spring hanger, being close to the ash pan.


And a shot from a different angles. The peg sticking up in the bearing slot is to set the lower movement of the bearing and needs to be reduced. East to do when the spring can be taken off.



Cheers,
Peter