Hi Ken,
Many thanks for the compliments. Yes, the pipe lagging method is very effective, quick and simple. You don't have any wrapping of tape or wire etc., and as there is no soldering involved there is no cleaning up to do.
On the unidentified etch parts:-
253 x 4. I also thought they might be for the mud hole locations, but did not see any point in using them. Interesting that they don't fit.
198, 011, 059, 204 188, 159, 251, 200, 208 and 275, l don't recognise without checking the instructions. I'll have a look and see what I make of them.
The 2 half etched strip with 8 rivets I have seen, but I have no clue as to what are for.
The bracket on top of the bogie is to support the front end when the model is lifted off the track. It's relatively heavy and without it the pivot would most likely come adrift over time. On mine the bogie can move up and down slightly which is enough to allow it cope with any undulations in the track. If you place your model on a glass plate, can the bogie be slid from side to side easily? If not the bracket may be catching on the edge of the chassis member.
I have been pressing on with the body detail and have now added the vacuum ejector and pipe work along the top of the left hand tank. Here's where it is so far. There is another small pipe to add to finish it.
Here's the pipe run along the top of the tank. I cocked up by adding the brackets earlier, as I needed to broach the holes to get 3 x 0.6mm copper wire through. I had to take them off to broach them and refit.
The tank straps have also been added along with the regulator rod.
On the other side, I have fitted the steam lance feeder pipe along with the lance cock. The two securing brackets are hand made as they are not included.
As far I can tell from photos, the pipe disappears down the inside of the tank part way along. There may be variations on that, but that's what I've gone with. You can just see the "lagging" on the forward pipe on the steam heating valve. It's not as good as the one on the steam manifold, but I can't easily get it if now. Tank straps also fitted. On the fire iron brackets, I would suggest replacing the etched part with something made from suitable waste etch. The parts are half efched to make the "u" bends and although I reinforced the bends with a fillet of solder, they are vulnerable to knocks and broke both arms on the front one and the outer arm on the rear. I have replaced them by drilling and inserting strips of waste etch. Maybe I'm just a clumsy git and really they are fine.
Here's a better view of the completed body after soldering up the sub assemblies.
And back on the chassis.
It really is a superb kit, with in the main, excellent instructions. It's a shame they go AWOL from time to time on some of the etched parts. I liked the Martin Finney instruction on the A3, so it will be interesting to see how Finney 7 have improved them, when I get around to building the A4.
Cheers,
Peter