Nick Dunhill's 7mm W (A6) or Whitby Tank Workbench

[Martin Shaw]

I wouldn't wish to impune the locomotive builders of Darlington or Gateshead, but varnish would then have been cheaper than paint, no pigment to add to the mix, so it seems likely. Not only that it would have discoloured less from smoke, my own experience suggests that a cream painted cab roof looks distinctly tatty in short order.
Regards
Martin

 

[Nick Dunhill]

All the evidence seems to suggest varnish in NER period. The problem is I have used oak and I'm not sure what the NER used so I may have to stain first. Aerolite has a golden varnished pine finish on the cab roof. I suppose the Ws were the same.

 

[oldravendale]

Hi Nick.

One of my less intrusive hobbies has been marquetry. (In fact I've done very little in the last several years). However, staining veneers is a technique used quite often, although I always preferred to use the natural wood colours on anything I created. Nevertheless, it may be worth having a look at the marquetry sites - some of the work is amazing.

On the dying and finishing front, though, see

I'm sure there are others.

Another technique is to darken by the use of heat in a sand bath. Again I'll be surprised if there's nothing on line from the marquetry chaps, although this is actually a technique used most often to shade timbers rather than create an overall darker effect.

It's a fascinating hobby. I just prefer trains!

Brian

 

[Scale7JB]

What's all this about a café?

JB.

 

[Nick Dunhill]

It's my job JB. I own a veggie cafe in Sheffield. The Blue Moon Cafe. Been going for 24 years.

 

[Nick Dunhill]

.....I have added the sand boxes, lids and operating linkages and rods.

The linkage is all made from rod and telescoping tube.

I'm going to make the boiler next and hope someone can help with a bit of information. I am looking for a photo or drawing that shows the way that the NER joined the boiler clothing. There appears to be a line of screws along the top of the boiler, so presumably one end of the boiler clothing is joggled and overlaps the other. The screws then hold the overlapping joint together. Question is, is the panel join centered or is the line of screws along the centre (or somewhere in between even.) Are the screws to the left or right of the join? I'm sure all locos built at Darlo would be the same, so a pic of any NER engine would tell me what I need to know. Question the second. Is the front of the firebox lagged? Or can you see the firebox stays in the front of the firebox under the boiler?

Thanks in anticipation........

 

[FiftyFourA]

Nick,

Second question first - the front of the firebox is not lagged otherwise the front dampers would probably be 'fouled' so you can see the stay heads on the front of the firebox below footpate leve.

As for the cladding, you would need so confirm with pictures. I was sitting on top of the J72 last Thursday cleaning the seats of the safety valves and those cadding sheets are in one piece. At the same time some other volunteers were puting the cladding on the J27 and they were also full sheets (not joined at the top).

I have some photos of A8s which I will dig ut and post shortly that may help.

Peter

 

[FiftyFourA]

Nick

Got a couple of piccies that might help of an A8, both 'high' level views but maybe not quite high enough?





Hope they help.

BTW, just in case you decide to model the firebox on this loco (youv'e modelled just about everything else so you may as well) I have some photos from last week showing the correct colours .


Peter

 

[Nick Dunhill]

....basic boilers. The boilers were rolled from 111 x 125.5 mm sheets of .25 mm nickel silver. (Actually it's nearer 110 mm but best cut to size as required.) Front and rear formers were cut out as the drawing below. The front former was soldered in place using cable ties to hold the cylinder tight, join at bottom. The boiler join was tacked together at this stage. Cuts were made in the bottom of the boiler to allow the rear to be unrolled and formed into the firebox clothing. The cuts were 47.7 mm from the rear and approx 15 mm up from the bottom of the sheet, adjusting as required, until the rear former is a good fit. The centre line of the top of the boiler was scored to represent the plate join, and holes for screws pre-drilled. The rear former was also scored with a centre line which was aligned with the centre of the top of the boiler.

Although strictly a vanity project, as it can't be seen, I elected to extend the firebox sides downwards to meet the ashpan, which is attached to the chassis. Dimensions of the pieces used is shown above. I also added a firebox lower front (23 x 24 mm.)

Next boiler bands, washout plugs etc.....

 

[warren haywood]

Why boiler bands

 

[Scale7JB]

Do you use an Olfa Plastic cutter for scoring? I've heard the blades are quite difficult to get hold of now?

JB.

 

[Nick Dunhill]

Oddly I like putting boiler bands on. I use a Swann and Morton scalpel, mainly out of loyalty. Their factory is only half a mile away.

 

[Scale7JB]

Oddly I like putting boiler bands on. I use a Swann and Morton scalpel, mainly out of loyalty. Their factory is only half a mile away.

Thanks Nick, won't work for me sadly as I use the scoring method to cut long lengths of frame spacer material.

JB.

 

[Rob Pulham]

Do you use an Olfa Plastic cutter for scoring? I've heard the blades are quite difficult to get hold of now?

JB.

I am still on my original blade with no sign if it getting worn. I also bought a pack of spares when I bought it so I have the part no

I had a search and I found some available here

 

[Nick Dunhill]

...thought this might be of some interest. This is how I have done the angle iron infill between cab front and smokebox. I scored round the rear of the firebox and cut out a piece of brass bigger than the profile of the rear. That was soldered on and a narrow brass strip attached round the firebox to complete the illusion. Not my best finish ever on the invisible bits!! I added some washout plugs to the firebox front.

Boiler bands next..............

 

[Scale7JB]

I am still on my original blade with no sign if it getting worn. I also bought a pack of spares when I bought it so I have the part no

I had a search and I found some available here

Thanks Rob, amusingly, 6.3 miles away..

JB.

 

[Nick Dunhill]

....boiler bands!! Takes a couple of hours but worth the effort I think.

I have run out of boiler band material. Eileen's Emporium used to sell 1.5 x 0.15 x 150 mm strips, ideal for boiler bands. Now they only stock 1.5 mm strip in 0.2 mm thickness. Anyone know of a source of 0.15 mm stuff, or with a guillotine who could cut me some? Thanks in anticipation.

 

[Scale7JB]

I'm pretty sure the boiler band material you're thinking of is that produced by Slaters. Very handy stuff.

JB.

 

[Nick Dunhill]

.....I've made a skeleton of the smokebox. The sealing ring for the smokebox door was put on the front and then a tubeplate etching (cheers JB) added to the rear. I must say that first you should identify which smokebox you need. Mine is the original flat fronted one, but most will make the later version, and all parts are present. The front and rear formers were fitted to a 'floor' measuring 26 mm wide and 20.6 mm long to give an overall length of 21.6 mm (as measured off the GA.) Beware if you follow my drawings on Flickr as the smokebox GA shows the short lived long firebox (intended to accommodate superheating which was never fitted.) A secondary floor was added using 3.5 mm raisers and the sloping protector plate added. I assume this was to prevent ash and clinker settling on the cylinder block casting. The front of the firebox was cut away at the bottom, as prototypical, to clear the cylinder fronts. Finally some temporary spacers were added to strengthen it all up. I will add the door, and all the internals (blastpipe etc.) and fit the wrapper afterwards.

Of course if you're not modelling an opening smokebox door and haven't fitted the cylinder fronts (more vanity projects!) then you can skip many steps here. Internals next......

 

[Tim Watson]

I have just read all this thread. Seriously impressive stuff: a small scale copy of the real thing - just how it should be. The valve gear and motion will be fun!

Tim