Peter Cross
Western Thunderer
Just to join the fun LSWR went large too.
Nick Dunhill's 7mm W (A6) or Whitby Tank Workbench
- Thread starter Nick Dunhill
- Start date
Nick Dunhill
Western Thunderer
Steph, nimble fingers work hefty tinsnips!
Col, no one reads the Sheffield Star (except match report when Wednesday win!)
Col, no one reads the Sheffield Star (except match report when Wednesday win!)
Nick Dunhill
Western Thunderer
....so the inner ends of the boss laminations have been chamfered to represent the machining of the real thing. All the tags have been filed off and all the internal end bits need the etching cusps removed prior to soldering (you can't get in there later!) All parts were then soldered together taking care to align everything. As you can see I use drills through the crankpin holes to line all up. The rest is just donkey work with files, various grades of wet or dry and finishing with a burnishing tool. Nice CAD work Mick....
Next some detail.....
Next some detail.....
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Len Cattley
Western Thunderer
Hi Nick, did the etches come in three parts or two?
Nick Dunhill
Western Thunderer
...and no problems and easy to assemble. I would rather them be accurate and in a million pieces.......
Len Cattley
Western Thunderer
Thanks that's handy to know, I'll have to do that in my etchings.
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Len, it depends on your valve gear set up, if you're doing a full set of outside valve gear then I'd go with the standard 0.7 mm and a double laminate, you'll have enough valve gear to fill half a sheet from PPD. You can get two sets on one sheet, the second set could be for spares or if you're not sure about some parts then alternative parts to slightly different sizes or shapes etc.
Nicks project was totally different, he only wanted outside rods so the standard 0.7 mm sheet would of been a waste, you'd get 10 plus sets of outside only rods on a 0.7 mm sheet. Plus, I know Nick will not have a problem with lining up five laminates on each boss, the etchings are tailored to Nicks skill set.
If you use a thinner material for a full motion set then you may run into problems with the smaller rods, they'll either be too fat or two thin depending on how you laminate it all up.
Each case is different, there is no hard and fast rule to how many laminates you have, or what material thickness you use, so long as the final item measures up near enough.
MD
Nicks project was totally different, he only wanted outside rods so the standard 0.7 mm sheet would of been a waste, you'd get 10 plus sets of outside only rods on a 0.7 mm sheet. Plus, I know Nick will not have a problem with lining up five laminates on each boss, the etchings are tailored to Nicks skill set.
If you use a thinner material for a full motion set then you may run into problems with the smaller rods, they'll either be too fat or two thin depending on how you laminate it all up.
Each case is different, there is no hard and fast rule to how many laminates you have, or what material thickness you use, so long as the final item measures up near enough.
MD
Lancastrian
Western Thunderer
Steph,Ian,
I'm surprised at you; not finding a photo of a LBSCR Remembrance...
Like this:
Steph
That's because I'm a L&Y man at heart ;-)
Ian
adrian
Flying Squad
Nice work - although for information you can get thin (0.5/0.4mm) slitting files if you do need to "get in there later", the 2mm Association have them at a reasonable rate Shop 1 list . Although that given, as you say it is easier to clean up prior to soldering.
Nick Dunhill
Western Thunderer
..added the adornments to the rods. The oil pot fillers and drains are made from Scalehardware components and the joint pins are scratchbuilt from rod and thick walled tube.
A couple of people have expressed an interest in sets of etchings. I was planning to order a second batch from PPD later this week. If anyone out there is also interested message me and I will tag your request on to save money on postage.....
A couple of people have expressed an interest in sets of etchings. I was planning to order a second batch from PPD later this week. If anyone out there is also interested message me and I will tag your request on to save money on postage.....
Rob Pulham
Western Thunderer
Hi Nick,
Can I ask what sizes of rod/tube you used for the joint/cotter pins and did you thread/tap the rear of the joint pins or just solder them in?
Can I ask what sizes of rod/tube you used for the joint/cotter pins and did you thread/tap the rear of the joint pins or just solder them in?
Nick Dunhill
Western Thunderer
Hi Rob
The material used for the pin was 1 mm N/S rod. The 'nut' (it's round section on the real thing) is made from 1mm id x 2mm od brass tube from Eileen's Emporium:
Brass Round Tube 2.0mm x 1.0mm x 250mm - Eileens Emporium | 01531 828009
It was drilled using a 0.4mm drill first for the cottar (0.4mm rod,) and then a bit 'parted' off in my mini drill with a piercing saw. There's a washer under it as well that came from my bit-box.
Hope this helps.
The material used for the pin was 1 mm N/S rod. The 'nut' (it's round section on the real thing) is made from 1mm id x 2mm od brass tube from Eileen's Emporium:
Brass Round Tube 2.0mm x 1.0mm x 250mm - Eileens Emporium | 01531 828009
It was drilled using a 0.4mm drill first for the cottar (0.4mm rod,) and then a bit 'parted' off in my mini drill with a piercing saw. There's a washer under it as well that came from my bit-box.
Hope this helps.
Rob Pulham
Western Thunderer
Thanks Nick.
Nick Dunhill
Western Thunderer
....so on to the chassis plates. The W was rebuilt from a 4-6-0 T to a 4-6-2T quite early on. The frame extensions were simply riveted on to the ends of the existing plates, and Mick designed a clever frame spacer to lock the two sections together. All the frame plates, original and extensions, are a lamination of two etches. The outer thin etches on the main, original, sections have to be orientated correctly. The thicker inner etches have a half-etched extension to the top portion. This needs to be innermost, i.e. the rear of the sandwich is the flat side and the outer side is the thin overlay. Care must be taken to align the two laminations exactly, and the soldering up and filing/emerying is a rather tedious process (in my view!)
The rear extensions are easy and quick to solder up but the outer overlay has a slot missing. This is shown in the pictures below but is easy to correct. After soldering the two laminations together, put extra solder in the outermost slot to hold the two pieces firmly. Drill either ends of the slot with a 0.5mm drill and cut out the slot with a piercing saw. I then used a 0.5mm drill as a slot drill (look away engineers) to define the slot properly. It works well if you are careful.
This shows the main sections of the chassis soldered up, below, and cleaned up, above.
The end slot is absent on the outer overlay,
but present on the thicker inner lamination.
Simply drill through from the inside with a 0.5mm drill and cut out the slot with a piercing saw.
Done, and only a 2 min job.
All the completed chassis sections. Note the inner faces of the thicker, inner lamination are flat at the rear.
Next some stretchers.......
The rear extensions are easy and quick to solder up but the outer overlay has a slot missing. This is shown in the pictures below but is easy to correct. After soldering the two laminations together, put extra solder in the outermost slot to hold the two pieces firmly. Drill either ends of the slot with a 0.5mm drill and cut out the slot with a piercing saw. I then used a 0.5mm drill as a slot drill (look away engineers) to define the slot properly. It works well if you are careful.
This shows the main sections of the chassis soldered up, below, and cleaned up, above.
The end slot is absent on the outer overlay,
but present on the thicker inner lamination.
Simply drill through from the inside with a 0.5mm drill and cut out the slot with a piercing saw.
Done, and only a 2 min job.
All the completed chassis sections. Note the inner faces of the thicker, inner lamination are flat at the rear.
Next some stretchers.......
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Only 2 minutes, but a bloody annoying mistake 
Know what you mean about laminating frames, but I don't think there's a way round it if you want to keep the detail on the overlays, a milled set of frames would avoid the cusp removal and perhaps a half etched overlay on top of that might work, but it'd probably still need trimming back all square at some point.
I don't mind frames but valve gear, now that is a fiddly chore
MD
Know what you mean about laminating frames, but I don't think there's a way round it if you want to keep the detail on the overlays, a milled set of frames would avoid the cusp removal and perhaps a half etched overlay on top of that might work, but it'd probably still need trimming back all square at some point.
I don't mind frames but valve gear, now that is a fiddly chore
MD
Nick Dunhill
Western Thunderer
Milled frames are just too bulky! Funny how we all have our pet hates. Laminating and filing up frames is the low point in each build for me, but I do like valve gear.
Len Cattley
Western Thunderer
mickoo,
I don't mind frames but valve gear, now that is a fiddly chore
MD
You should try doing it in 4mm
I don't mind frames but valve gear, now that is a fiddly chore
MD
You should try doing it in 4mm
Nick Dunhill
Western Thunderer
....So here are the frame stretchers. The large structure is what holds the extensions to the original frame section.
next cylinder blocks.....in a couple of weeks.....
next cylinder blocks.....in a couple of weeks.....
oldravendale
Western Thunderer
Hi Adrian.
I considered that the addition of a slitting file to my arsenal would be a worthwhile investment, but note that these items are for sale to 2mm Association members only. I've looked at a number of tool and jewellery makers' suppliers but can find nothing similar. Do you have any idea who may be an alternative supplier?
Brian