Nick Dunhill's 7mm workbench.

[OzzyO]

Nick, get the boiler done and test fit it on the running plate before you cut the jig off, it could be a good move!

More so if your going to start drilling holes in the running plate so you can remove the boiler.

Looking good mate.

 

[Nick Dunhill]

I can't do it that way because I have to fit the portion of the chassis above the footplate to the footplate using the chassis as a jig. I'm sure being a Finney kit the boiler will fit ok, but I have to slightly narrow the bottom of the smokebox to fit. All will become apparent.

 

[Nick Dunhill]

...this is what I was hoping to achieve..

 

[OzzyO]

I see now.

 

[Nick Dunhill]

...end of a long and enjoyable day modelling. I have altered the frame spacing above the footplate so that it is the same as below, and finished the front and inners of the sandboxes.







It's beginning to look like a T9. And look what the postie brought today



Valve gear parts (all Drummond LSWR valve gear parts will be available soon at Laurie Griffin Miniatures folks!) Big thanks to Steph for the info and a massive ta (and a few scoops next time I see you) to Simon Thompson who produced 3-D printed patterns. For my part I just nagged and cracked the whip.

Cab next, I think, whilst I ponder the valve gear........

 

[Steph Dale]

It's good isn't it Nick? I'm very pleased with it; Simon's done a cracking job. And more to follow...

Steph

 

[Nick Dunhill]

....during the last week I have built cab roofs



Being Finney etchings they presented no problem



This is the underside with all the strapping present. I have also built the lockers/splashers, and have reattached the sections of chassis I cut away earlier in the build. I just thought doing it this way was a no brainer.






More cab next......

 

[Nick Dunhill]

.....the sanding lever supplied in the kit (right) was a much simplified version of the real thing. So a bit of scratchbuilding and



Next the reversing lever......

 

[Scale7JB]

Like it!

JB.

 

[Nick Dunhill]

...ta JB. This is the reversing lever. It is again scratchbuilt as the one in the kit isn't quite right.



Next more cab stuff.....

 

[Compton castle]

Very nice

 

[Nick Dunhill]

...my friend Mike is a passed fireman and mithers me constantly, in the pub, about making firehole doors more realistic. He says that often the fire hole door arrangement looks too cast on, or is shut and looks like it will not open. He pointed out too that often the doors are cracked open, especially soon after a fresh charge, to allow in top-end-air to burn off combustible gasses. With this in mind I took some measures to make a proper hole and detail up the door arrangement. I hope it passes muster!



Part done,



Finished.

As an aside does anyone know where I can get some 2 x 2 mm (ish) square clear plastic rod for the water gauge safety screens? Next backhead details.....

 

[OzzyO]

You could try this place, but you may have to get it as sheet and cut it down and polish the cut edges,
http://www.directplasticsonline.co.uk/

HTH

OzzyO.

PS. it may be worth look at the samples thread on the L/H side.

 

[Rob Pulham]

you may have to get it as sheet and cut it down and polish the cut edges,

I have some 1mm thick sheet that I have done this with in the past. It might be a bit thin for you but you are more than welcome to a slice of it, if it would help?

 

[Nick Dunhill]

Thanks Rob, I may get back to you on that.

This one is a bit analy retentive but I have soldered each of the etched cab handles I need to a rod and turned them in a minidrill to reprofile them. On the left is a couple of raw etchings and on the right the turned handles. They do look a lot better I think, more rounded...

 

[Rob Pulham]

Nice, a trick I will shamelessly plagiarize in the future

 

[Nick Dunhill]

Fill your boots Rob.

 

[7mmMick]

...my friend Mike is a passed fireman and mithers me constantly, in the pub, about making firehole doors more realistic. He says that often the fire hole door arrangement looks too cast on, or is shut and looks like it will not open. He pointed out too that often the doors are cracked open, especially soon after a fresh charge, to allow in top-end-air to burn off combustible gasses. With this in mind I took some measures to make a proper hole and detail up the door arrangement. I hope it passes muster!



Part done,



Finished.

As an aside does anyone know where I can get some 2 x 2 mm (ish) square clear plastic rod for the water gauge safety screens? Next backhead details.....

Lovely job Nick,

Now all you need is a tea can on the warmer. I think the extra effort taken here really is worth it, a fire hole cracked, or even fully open is not often seen. I think it really brings the model to life, I plan to do this on my current projects and have a orange light glowing inside the firebox to simulate the glow in the cab and hopefully on the ash pan with the dampers open. Dampers like the fire hole door are generally cracked or open when the loco is working. Here's what I'm hoping to achieve, whether I do remains to be seen but you get the idea;


(D49 rear damper cracked)

ATB Mick

 

[Nick Dunhill]

Hi Mick.

I had considered a light but neither models are DCC so it's a bit impractical for me.

Nick

 

[Nick Dunhill]

....these are the backheads with most of the plumbing attached. The brass water gauge safety glass will be replaced with clear plastic ones when the material arrives.



This shows the handrails, they are nickel-silver (and can be left unpainted) and the upper part is a 0.8mm rod let inside the lower part which is a 1mm OD tube.



Next I have to scratchbuild a couple of valves.......